tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-39490217325482065852024-02-08T01:28:59.782+00:00Fragile X PeditionAn account of a motorcycle expedition, from the top to the bottom of the Americas, raising money & awareness for the Fragile X Syndrome Society. 2008 A.DUnknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger57125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3949021732548206585.post-39100359418658383782009-02-14T09:52:00.004+00:002009-02-14T09:55:59.570+00:00My route from Prudhoe Bay to Ushuaia<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwvcxTBgqn2PtLLNaOfaSYzVHqKykLaqYDnJnez_ne2PCMY3tWJEkIg-ZOXyr9OmaL8YrI19xDIxq2IpFzkgdhN7NDZxwEfSGU0Xx6JbmBeqxO4HvZw4lcys7-Thk4azUI0txvNPBBsqg/s1600-h/north-america-map+finished.gif"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 319px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwvcxTBgqn2PtLLNaOfaSYzVHqKykLaqYDnJnez_ne2PCMY3tWJEkIg-ZOXyr9OmaL8YrI19xDIxq2IpFzkgdhN7NDZxwEfSGU0Xx6JbmBeqxO4HvZw4lcys7-Thk4azUI0txvNPBBsqg/s400/north-america-map+finished.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5302589093282582274" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3Tk81nC5QZHUPuRT6EDbieAXkRDVfHic-eu_I_TAoBvGSXRryYu8RSWB2Foh59axqZuKijtILY2TkgZL-goga-1Z_BqcEHEBxxy0ZxIY9ZrnFBhyphenhyphenDZfauwwC0CU2FOLstFvnYvRmKP2Q/s1600-h/south+america+finished.gif"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3Tk81nC5QZHUPuRT6EDbieAXkRDVfHic-eu_I_TAoBvGSXRryYu8RSWB2Foh59axqZuKijtILY2TkgZL-goga-1Z_BqcEHEBxxy0ZxIY9ZrnFBhyphenhyphenDZfauwwC0CU2FOLstFvnYvRmKP2Q/s400/south+america+finished.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5302588937614618162" border="0" /></a>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3949021732548206585.post-8178649259453093722009-02-04T14:46:00.003+00:002009-05-09T08:28:13.888+01:00THE ENDSo this is it. The end. Flying over and into a beautiful white blighty was the absolute nail in it all. Im home. did that all happen ? yes it did ! and i will never forget any of it. well actually i have forgotten most of it. there is so much to hold in the memory box. Aside from "what now", my mind keeps firing in the odd flash of what was. mostly comical moments and wonderful faces. Lets hope smells, faces, circumstances, music and more, trigger more hidden memories.................................... A few stats : 22000 miles, 15 countries (regarding Alaska as independent), 4 rear tyres, 5 front tyres, 2 batteries, 2 chains, 2 choke cables, 2 clutch cables, 100 stickers, 2 close ones (1 being my falt), 2 TV interviews, 2 radio interviews, 5 national newspaper interviews, 3 magazines, 2 tearful episodes with head in hands, 1 moment with a wolf, 2 moments with cuddly bears, 1 dead snake, 1 dead bird, 1 moment with bandits, 2 moments with the police, 0 military moments, 0 robberys, 0 arguements with the locals, 1000 chicken and rice meals, 10000 empanadas (if ya know where they sell these little rascals in London, do let me know now please), 1000 new friends, 6 offs (small pain), 0 loss of documents, 0 punctures, 1 pair of lost boots, 2 lost cameras, 3 lost silly hats, wouldnt know where to start guessing at how much gasoline used. well then time to go. no more blogs.. some might be glad to hear.. thank you all those who suffered and stuck with the blog. i apologise for all the spelling , grammer and all mistakes. My just giving page is still open, so if you are considering sponsoring me and donating to the fragile x society, now the job is done, please click the JG widget on the right of this page. We have nearly hit the £6000 mark. £10000 being the target. I am amazed at that amount. I thank you once more !!...photos on the right hand side have been updated. "click for simons pics".... . All countries visited gave me nothing but open arms, help and big smiles. the reputation of some of these places is covered in darkness. i found nothing but light. They offer things i dont find in the UK. Would you offer a bed to a complete stranger, mad eyed, covered in oil and mud, splurting out alien language ?.... i will always think on these places and feel warmth. bye bye !! xUnknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3949021732548206585.post-8414533163584712372009-01-24T18:09:00.010+00:002009-02-06T13:37:34.372+00:00big thank yous !<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF4WhggMBFoQA4ZBsehBTaZLJs_6F_LjAsBc4HSWhTWXm0CXMu3b2g0qSIX95sRRbeR8m06m_WPCs0HlpMBkmAvXTQNndqxDdhE9M-MI717jCj-Rh3cxPMkPYh0MwI6_63OMTjnjyBoZA/s1600-h/simon+in+torres.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5294925103329803138" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 400px; height: 197px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF4WhggMBFoQA4ZBsehBTaZLJs_6F_LjAsBc4HSWhTWXm0CXMu3b2g0qSIX95sRRbeR8m06m_WPCs0HlpMBkmAvXTQNndqxDdhE9M-MI717jCj-Rh3cxPMkPYh0MwI6_63OMTjnjyBoZA/s400/simon+in+torres.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div>5 days in ushuaia has given me time to look back on , what has been the most incredible 6 months of my life. i remember touching the arctic ocean up in prudhoe bay and looking south wondering what i would be thinking when i am down south looking north. .....its the people that are in my thoughts. the scenery, riding and all else involved on the trip comes a close second. i miss everyone i have met and long to see them all again. i am still amazed by the genuine interest, help and time all have given me. without this i would have had half the trip i did and would no way have been able to get the publicity i was seeking..... i want to say now a huge heart felt thank you to all the following people and organisations that have bent over backwards for me from when it was just an obsessing idea to right now. .................</div><div></div><div>THE FRAGILE X SOCIETY IN GREAT DUNMOW. AMANDA , WENDY AND ALL TOOK ME IN WHEN I WAS WIDE EYED AND OBVIOUSLY NAIVE WITH THE PLAN. TAKING ME SERIOUSLY AND HELPING ME WITH ALL MY REQUESTS. AON GROUP LIMITED LONDON. SALLY, REUBEN AND MATTHEW. FOR THE GENEROUS DONATION TO THE FRAGILE X SOCIETY AND ALL THE WORLD WIDE PUBLICITY. TRANSWORLD COURIERS FOR THEIR GENEROUS DONATION AND HELP WITH SHIPPING MY GEAR QUICKLY AND SECURELY, LISTENING TO MY MOANS AND WORRIES ALONG THE WAY. NITE WATCHES FOR THEIR IMMPECABLE HELP WITH PUBLICITY AND LETTING ME PUT TO THE TEST ONE OF THEIR TX10 WATCHES, WHICH I HAVE TO ADD HASNT A SCRATCH ON IT EVEN AFTER ALL THE BATTERINGS I HAVE GIVEN IT ALONG ROUTE. IT HASNT MISSED A SECOND. DAVE GURMAN AT THE RIDERS DIGEST FOR HIS 2 PAGES OF INSIGHTFUL HONEST WRITING ON THE FXPEDITION. BIKE ANIMAL.COM AND DIRT BIKE RIDER MAGAZINE FOR THEIR PUBLICATIONS. A HUGE THANKS TO PHIL FREEMAN AND ALL HIS TOP EMPLOYEES UP THERE AT ALASKA RIDER TOURS. A GREAT BUNCH WHO SORTED OUT THE BIKE PERFECTLY TO HANDLE A NOVICE LIKE ME. I HAD A REAL HAPPY FUN TIME IN THEIR COMPANY AND MISS LIKE MAD SITTING AROUND THE OFFICE WITH BEERS AND LAUGHS. ASH AT A AND Z SPORTS IN GRAVESEND FOR THE STUNNING T-SHIRTS AND KEEPING UP AN ORIGINAL SPORTS SHOP, WHEN ALL AROUND ARE DULL CHAIN SHOPS. COLIN PATTERSON-SMITH AT THE FALKLANDS TOURIST BOARD, WHO HELPED NO END WITH INFO AND THE PERFECT FINISH TO THIS ALL. SALVADOR FOR HIS SPANISH LESSONS AND PATIENCE WITH ME. WITHOUT THOSE GENEROUS LESSONS I WOULD NOT HAVE HAD THE FOUNDATION IN THE LANGUAGE THAT QUICKENED MY LEARNING ON ROUTE. MAILSOURCE FOR UNDERSTANDING AND GIVING ME THE TIME NEEDED TO GO DO THIS..DEANO, DAVE, ALLAN, FABS AND ALL IN THE POSTROOM FOR PUTTING UP WITH TALKING OF NOT MUCH ELSE...TERRY, SPARKSY, MARK, BRI, TREV AND ALL, AT WEEKENDS SECURITY FOR THE LAUGHS AND CHANCE OF EXTRA WORK, U U U U U U ! .....KELLY - VANCOUVER FOR THAT FIRST NIGHTS KIP AND SHOW AROUND THAT BEAUTIL CITY ! GABY, GUIDO AND DALE, WAS A REAL PLEASURE IN THOSE EARLY DAYS !...PETE PIEL FOR JOINING ME AND RIDING SOME OF THE ROUTE. WE HAD A FUN TIME. PETE SHOWED ME THE WAY TO STICK MY NECK OUT WHEN IT COMES TO RAISING AWARENESS, JUST WHEN IT WAS NEEDED. AND THANK YOU PETE FOR THE PERFECT STICKERS AND T-SHIRTS. DEBBIE, PETES SISTER FOR LETTING US ROAM AND SLEEP AT HER PLACE IN PHOENIX. KERRY MOORE, THANK YOU LOADS FOR THE CONTACT IN THE STATES AND THE INTEREST MATE - COME ON THE EAGLES !FXMOM FOR ALL HER ENCOURAGING COMMENTS. PETER SOHM AND ALVARO URIBE WHO WORKS AT AON MEDELLIN FOR THE HELP AND WARMTH. MAKING IT EASY FOR ME TO GET THE PUBLICITY DOWN THERE IN DREAMLAND COLOMBIA. PATRICIO RODRIGUEZ AT AON QUITO AND ALL HIS COLLEAGUES FOR THERE HELP AND WARMTH AGAIN IN TRUE LATIN AMERICAN STYLE. TRUST AND UNDERSTANDING ALWAYS PRESENT. JOSE LUIS CONTRERAS AT AON LA PAZ FOR WELCOMING ME ARMS OPEN. ALL AT THE OTHER AON BRANCHES I VISITED. ALL GIVING ME HELP, TIME AND WARMTH. SIGNE, FRED, JOHN, JO, BRIAN , ROGER AND JAY UP THERE IN PHILIPSBURG. THANKS LOADS FOR MY FIRST TASTE OF GENEROUS HOSPITALILTY AFTER I HAD BEEN ALONE FOR WHAT SEEMED LIKE AGES. ALFREDO AND HIS WONDERFUL FAMILY IN COLIMA MEXICO THANK YOU. THEY FOUND ME SHOUTING AT A NON GIVING CASHPOINT MACHINE IN THE RAIN AND LOOKED AFTER ME FOR 2 DAYS, NOT LETTING ME PUT MY HAND IN MY POCKET AND SHOWING ME THE LOCAL SIGHTS THAT I WOULD HAVE MISSED. ALSO INTRODUCING ME TO FRANCIS FROM KLIENT FM IN HERMASILLO WHO SORTD OUT THE FIRST RADIO INTERVIEW OF THE TRIP. CHEERS LOADS OMER, MY NEXT RIDING BUDDY WHO KEPT ME LAUGHING FOR A MONTH. ALL AT THE CASA CARMEN. TARIQ, HANNAH, CASSY, PJ, I STILL MISS YA ! .. KAREN AND PATRICK FROM JERSEY, ANOTHER BONKERS COUPLE WHO MADE OUR TIME HILARIOUS- MISS YA LIKE MAD TOO ! CANT FORGET KARINA LA RATTA ASWELL ! TODOS RATTAS !!.. VICTOR AND JOSE HELLO AND THANKS FOR THE ENCOURAGING ENTHUSIASM OUT THERE IN THE WILDS OF THOSE RADIANT COLOMBIAN HILLS. JAIRO AND YORSMAN THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP WITH THE OIL CAP AND GIVING UP YOUR DAY TO SHOW ME SIGHTS I WOULD HAVE MISSED. THE CASA KIWI GANG, IN MEDELLIN. ANOTHER HILARIOUS TIME , I MISS YOU ALL !..TODD, WHO DROVE DOWN THE SAME ROUTE AS ME IN A CAR, WHERE ARE YA ? LOST IN ANTARTICA ? ALDO, ROSA MARIA AND THEIR BEAUTIFUL FAMILY, THANK YOU FOR PUTTING UP WITH ME AND THE BOYS FOR THOSE GREAT DAYS IN TRUJILLO. MARTINA AND DIDI, YOU NUT CASES. THANK YOU FOR KEEPING ME ALIVE AND LAUGHING IN BOLIVIA ! CRISTINA, BARBY, ANDRES AND JOSE . YOU ALL REALLY TOUCHED ME. I WILL NEVER BE ABLE TO THANK YOU ENOUGH FOR YOUR PATIENCE, WARMTH AND GENEROSITY TO A STRANGER. THE RADIO INTERVIEW WILL ALWAYS BE ONE THE HIGHLIGHTS OF THE WHOLE TRIP. MAGGIE IN LONDON, CHEERS LOADS MATE FOR ALL THE HELP AND GETTING MY ARSE GOING WHEN I WAS DISORGANISED AND DOZZY. MIRIAM YOU STILL ALIVE ?... THANKS TO ALL THE PEOPLE WHO WROTE TO ME AND ENCOURAGED ME.I NEEDED TO HEAR AND READ IT ALL..NEARLY FORGOT TO SAY THANKS AND SEND MY BEST WISHES TO MIKE AND HIS CLASSIC EMPHATIC STATEMENTS, THE BEST BEING WITH SOURFACED GRIMACES AND VERY VOCAL " I DONT WANNA RIDE WITH THAT PERVERT" AND " I DONT WANNA LISTEN TO ANYONE " CLASSIC MOMENTS OF PAINFUL LAUGHTER ! AND DAN "LETS GET SOME COW, POLLO AND FAT SAUSAGES TO COMPLEMENT THE WINE ", THIS BOY CAN COOK ! - WANNA HEAR WHEN FUEGOS OPENS SON !AND JEFF, THE BOY THATS UP FOR IT ALL ,I.E. THE RED NECKS THAT PUT UPWITH ME LONGER THAN WE THOUGHT, RIDING AND RISKING ALL TOGETHER - IT WAS INCREDIBLE CHAPS AND A RIGHT LAUGH THAT WILL KEEP ME GRINNING FOR YEARS !! STAY ALIVE BOYS !!!! GONNA MISS YA !!.... CHEERS MUM , DAD, SUEZ , IAN, TOM, OUR SIAN AND ALL FAMILY ON BOTH SIDES FOR NOT THINKING IM NUTS TO DO THIS...CHEERS ENCOURAGING MUCKERS : VANGUS the "TERRIBLE", MR.STREETER AND ARIEL MRS STREETER (CONGRATULATIONS ON THE WEDDING (sbout time) , JASON...YASMIN CROWTHER FOR WRITING THE SAFFRON KITCHEN. THE BOOK HONESTLY KEPT ME SANE IN CENTRAL AMERICA. A SPECIAL THANK YOU TO ALL THAT SPONSORED ME. THE DONATIONS HAVE BEEN INCREDIBLE. I NEVER EXPECTED TO SEE SUCH GENEROSITY !! THANK YOU ALLLLLLLLL !! LOVE YA AND GONNA MISS YARRRRRRRRR !!!!!!!!!!!!!</div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3949021732548206585.post-51585407811758860482009-01-21T17:05:00.009+00:002009-01-21T23:50:25.912+00:00the end of the world - Ushuaia - job done<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUk1KGrmg0xMqz2K-vE6-QxaE4uureQylB7Ig8lTKuFg8kj7Tdb75UrlXoPqv4vWRSs7oMKdpaGazpHeDqleEXNnhToEn8Hzhsju7n-OugGNXDlFaMq9lmU7FbK3_6pCuFTtRlERXqbAM/s1600-h/100_1014.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5293798417492607762" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUk1KGrmg0xMqz2K-vE6-QxaE4uureQylB7Ig8lTKuFg8kj7Tdb75UrlXoPqv4vWRSs7oMKdpaGazpHeDqleEXNnhToEn8Hzhsju7n-OugGNXDlFaMq9lmU7FbK3_6pCuFTtRlERXqbAM/s400/100_1014.JPG" border="0" /></a> That big ridiculous grin above, isnt relief, joy or an outlet of feelings of grand achievement. no, its a ridiculous grin of disbelief with some sort of half acknowledged joy. 10 miles outside my final destination, the end of the road, the end of the trip. the southern most city on earth, ushuaia, my bike completely shut down, with a choking slapping sound of a voice, " NO MORE MILES MAN !". 10 miles left out of 22000 miles. i slowed down to stop for a picture and she just died. its serious im sure. i pushed the bike up a hill surrounded by the incredible tierra del fuego landscape and then hoped to bump start the thing. it worked, i rode out those 10 last miles at 20mph with the engine straining at high revs and making horredous sounds of scraping metal, and the sound of all things inside loose. some might say, im lucky again to have broken down so close, i agree. also an added drama to a story (which i could do without)... the problem now is how to get myself out of argentina, legally with customs stamping the bike out. anyway, enough of all that. southern patagonia is spectacular.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-mhzlyTxX-iyMtiyxmbbJGx_qpBbnSrViQLsz7W4jPtHs9y78U7DXhaldeDfBNChYbb2M6L9kQldDp4oiwFOitwEzmLVbQRrV-T8nNGfOblt2OTy09Y8zmV7gULkprXnV0u0MmJlJEVU/s1600-h/100_0859.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5293797506669069314" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-mhzlyTxX-iyMtiyxmbbJGx_qpBbnSrViQLsz7W4jPtHs9y78U7DXhaldeDfBNChYbb2M6L9kQldDp4oiwFOitwEzmLVbQRrV-T8nNGfOblt2OTy09Y8zmV7gULkprXnV0u0MmJlJEVU/s400/100_0859.JPG" border="0" /></a> el chalten (above) is a tiny argentine patagonian resort, tucked into the shadows of mount fitzroy. this valley is silent , except for the howling wind and the sound of tapping rain. from here, its south down to the torres del paine, national park on the chilean side of patagonia. this is an area contradicting the rest of northern patagonia. here is where the vast nothing,becomes the rugged jagged mountains , twsiting roads heading higher, turquoise lakes, something. dont get me wrong, i loved riding through nothing , except fields and big skies. but this is where a man can sit in awe for hours,grinning and imagining.<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWrkqeWFkLIRzTJfywCxko07hKx9kmd3qXWpWZsBuADipZSZeu1lLkvLe1XHJ0M0QD222A6WrhBRlMkREdiO5y39BP8s8DL930FdS4PkMgP2GMexCCqjA2CKWXGggPPBiH1Fx5DCZST-E/s1600-h/100_0870.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5293797288963764642" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWrkqeWFkLIRzTJfywCxko07hKx9kmd3qXWpWZsBuADipZSZeu1lLkvLe1XHJ0M0QD222A6WrhBRlMkREdiO5y39BP8s8DL930FdS4PkMgP2GMexCCqjA2CKWXGggPPBiH1Fx5DCZST-E/s400/100_0870.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />in the shadows of a hidden fitroy. argentina<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdtYYpidwpEDgHOFDWEd35NMhfBlx1c0q7dKsWXDTyAtN0hlwFa_0kRQa2OiI26BxWo8v3qbBX337Lx_grq2gKt4erV4LcOhLYudPX2WukiZ5uc7PLn4v1u7VPr4UZVF6kuvrU3zAqhpA/s1600-h/100_0888.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5293797281057517154" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdtYYpidwpEDgHOFDWEd35NMhfBlx1c0q7dKsWXDTyAtN0hlwFa_0kRQa2OiI26BxWo8v3qbBX337Lx_grq2gKt4erV4LcOhLYudPX2WukiZ5uc7PLn4v1u7VPr4UZVF6kuvrU3zAqhpA/s400/100_0888.JPG" border="0" /></a> trees grow at angles everywhere. the relentless wind makes sure of that.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbF-n-5WreGxezeCxoGcksm6YYJjpIdEwUYi5PPukj5PQWQq3TI7fC2ye4bkgxr0jY83rb5di_vFy3B7NgsX-0FNNUoAej4KPa2VUy_oP7xe3bjheEeWI8JW5miUrdlNoeNTqaDq7Q1-Y/s1600-h/100_0890.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5293797272638513298" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbF-n-5WreGxezeCxoGcksm6YYJjpIdEwUYi5PPukj5PQWQq3TI7fC2ye4bkgxr0jY83rb5di_vFy3B7NgsX-0FNNUoAej4KPa2VUy_oP7xe3bjheEeWI8JW5miUrdlNoeNTqaDq7Q1-Y/s400/100_0890.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />el chalten </div><div><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYlNZ6Xc_30LY55Ex_DRQF7f2nGggL6P6sZExgruayJSAEHlf8plvXELr9F2DzJiVJMI4LOSbuX5WVqfRhe9UAwlStRaXj7hVOPWtOc71a6hPNyExGWXFSypRZOjUchCVAY23fvpqZ1pI/s1600-h/100_0909.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5293797266549837010" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYlNZ6Xc_30LY55Ex_DRQF7f2nGggL6P6sZExgruayJSAEHlf8plvXELr9F2DzJiVJMI4LOSbuX5WVqfRhe9UAwlStRaXj7hVOPWtOc71a6hPNyExGWXFSypRZOjUchCVAY23fvpqZ1pI/s400/100_0909.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />the ends of ruta 40. still not a twist in gravel insight. but shapes on the horizon.<br /><br /><br /><div> </div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhsM2aoAS0uaf6p7EZ6eeoKYpZfqYhixBNV2xcbkYJUpTgwhZFduDOyyzOOH1U2aRslkBG24IM_VWgt_XxBFlG2IsnEik7tuHDsBSokQMRy-CPAOuuvSIdMkO91vcBQa0yl3YuXeSUROg/s1600-h/100_0925.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5293797260422476322" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhsM2aoAS0uaf6p7EZ6eeoKYpZfqYhixBNV2xcbkYJUpTgwhZFduDOyyzOOH1U2aRslkBG24IM_VWgt_XxBFlG2IsnEik7tuHDsBSokQMRy-CPAOuuvSIdMkO91vcBQa0yl3YuXeSUROg/s400/100_0925.JPG" border="0" /></a> entering torres del paine, chile </div><div><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0jyAO23J15Z-DK-0I_2qUspsIq62XONjOFGZUZZomjRAdKMie_FMuHVCg8gMYk5sDD2Iut3qInd7fUk7_UPBZjsQPFHKPaFuwSgp4yXmEan8KlGDdf4HqyJEnHpiajZmOt3GGIK1nmGs/s1600-h/100_0936.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5293796699517418002" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0jyAO23J15Z-DK-0I_2qUspsIq62XONjOFGZUZZomjRAdKMie_FMuHVCg8gMYk5sDD2Iut3qInd7fUk7_UPBZjsQPFHKPaFuwSgp4yXmEan8KlGDdf4HqyJEnHpiajZmOt3GGIK1nmGs/s400/100_0936.JPG" border="0" /></a> the famous torres peaks. atmospheric again. waking up to this with no one around is something i can never forget.<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-j_drirbOo3f-kg2qcKGTFsr7SnJiEf5oor1NRtLthJKsNNuz_OhMvLqPgVCPJh_jnrhaBbRJ1qt8nQR0euNTRpx65NlDzCcuVyJXSmIY2CAyqxA2eoF-2KC_T3g1n45hKPCo-E7DJp4/s1600-h/100_0941.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5293796692684703122" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-j_drirbOo3f-kg2qcKGTFsr7SnJiEf5oor1NRtLthJKsNNuz_OhMvLqPgVCPJh_jnrhaBbRJ1qt8nQR0euNTRpx65NlDzCcuVyJXSmIY2CAyqxA2eoF-2KC_T3g1n45hKPCo-E7DJp4/s400/100_0941.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />patagonian pumas are a ferocious foe. rarely seen by man. this puma i tamed after he knawed on my ear lobe for 10 minutes.<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipK16xd9Q4tKrUG3E3s6G2QtU8BD9TcfWhFJ0-uH94dxB4M4rb-Pc3GbMB1vTCgpC4mHKof8McIPZ62iGYzaDaZQ5TJqyzhAVRrB_6L-yHl1qqA9vs4wBvn1chgTC1IJdcVTFuJrMCkag/s1600-h/100_0942.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5293796695217909090" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipK16xd9Q4tKrUG3E3s6G2QtU8BD9TcfWhFJ0-uH94dxB4M4rb-Pc3GbMB1vTCgpC4mHKof8McIPZ62iGYzaDaZQ5TJqyzhAVRrB_6L-yHl1qqA9vs4wBvn1chgTC1IJdcVTFuJrMCkag/s400/100_0942.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />the modern day is everywhere down here, but the old days are also everywhere. it has a 100 year old feel to it inside and out.<br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBwJ9uDYhJjyVF0QFFvphLO5HwRGxVfawpjdEFwhPnyVAZqlPODp9M8_p00MWGLKCD39Aa-lV9nznZkwiaGmHFj-GlE7Yh0-EHegi2ui5EchJXeqlhzuwl9xyfqyDPkLVTdBFIPAFcRtU/s1600-h/100_0968.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5293796689040297538" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 300px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 400px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBwJ9uDYhJjyVF0QFFvphLO5HwRGxVfawpjdEFwhPnyVAZqlPODp9M8_p00MWGLKCD39Aa-lV9nznZkwiaGmHFj-GlE7Yh0-EHegi2ui5EchJXeqlhzuwl9xyfqyDPkLVTdBFIPAFcRtU/s400/100_0968.JPG" border="0" /></a> gypsy siggs<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0uMy8oSnNDWwbN_psrnpom5Maf9e_YhzSynOgUmC8sDRhE5tbyeSctaKPhDU-6mdE0KUfh2q0RzUvujDzhgdSj4envsdub1jrEYrDdxVsvDohAcv7yP29iVRuNEox1YrAn8yDW4fFxg0/s1600-h/100_0969.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5293796686607635026" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0uMy8oSnNDWwbN_psrnpom5Maf9e_YhzSynOgUmC8sDRhE5tbyeSctaKPhDU-6mdE0KUfh2q0RzUvujDzhgdSj4envsdub1jrEYrDdxVsvDohAcv7yP29iVRuNEox1YrAn8yDW4fFxg0/s400/100_0969.JPG" border="0" /></a> guanaco adult. big brown eyes and jaws of a camel.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs2tyakG7FJbeIWESu6T5KRB0avg3R7xhekHKOuxLLFZQQiwK0xxr4nfdlinbtw9om4a2UTqYVl65U5qBjDZxgKI2yKnm7V7lvDNbRuTm8fWu2X8ZsuHrcLoYlbIWeatAHq-EnHJj4E0M/s1600-h/100_0974.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5293796126034466754" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 110px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs2tyakG7FJbeIWESu6T5KRB0avg3R7xhekHKOuxLLFZQQiwK0xxr4nfdlinbtw9om4a2UTqYVl65U5qBjDZxgKI2yKnm7V7lvDNbRuTm8fWu2X8ZsuHrcLoYlbIWeatAHq-EnHJj4E0M/s400/100_0974.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />nearing tierra del fuego. the magellan strait became visible. the excitement was gaining on me here. i still cant get over the fact of making it this far. money and time , well with desire also, are all thats needed. anyone can do this. A storm came in as quick as it left on the strait, pulling the clouds into all sorts of original shapes to me. really did seem like the ends of the earth. its cold and the wind gets stronger. on one side of tierra del fuego , to the east - strange rays glowed from the horizon, as clear as day light. at first i thought, "oh it must be the sun", then i dimmly realised the sun was setting on the other side of the world. and the rays were running from thin on the landside to wide on the sky side. ?????<br /></div><div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfHRSnbIr0a-7LwCF7XHX-_4EawpzE2pW3iJUGOV4AQH7tUjfOPaU8kCPlQfZWxiCaG7EhEwSAOugysjZElIWyNcUNQtXZ0VXn5e_ZTjz-tn0G8h_6Nw7NPvIOzJSMjVshs749q5SufQQ/s1600-h/100_0979.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5293796120923082818" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfHRSnbIr0a-7LwCF7XHX-_4EawpzE2pW3iJUGOV4AQH7tUjfOPaU8kCPlQfZWxiCaG7EhEwSAOugysjZElIWyNcUNQtXZ0VXn5e_ZTjz-tn0G8h_6Nw7NPvIOzJSMjVshs749q5SufQQ/s400/100_0979.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />puerto natales, chile<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGSKyRXakz0ePrYnq25MzGgQ2o0x9EUIIxpOZzyH0btKQs9nK-lnrsDt52_FwtMcmWJbMM4RNYXYG1QCTz8JpTsHVTpzBoSjSRmID589atXtznJG_N9dnut6U5LamF3oPJl_2hNCOYAo0/s1600-h/100_0980.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5293796121364652178" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 109px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGSKyRXakz0ePrYnq25MzGgQ2o0x9EUIIxpOZzyH0btKQs9nK-lnrsDt52_FwtMcmWJbMM4RNYXYG1QCTz8JpTsHVTpzBoSjSRmID589atXtznJG_N9dnut6U5LamF3oPJl_2hNCOYAo0/s400/100_0980.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />this could be alaska<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimwRnBpfcZFtvI3NIYyLmATyk5fP7dVESd-wp6wJMoXrr-g0dDnwuzKWVEjzMbnX_IJd3YH0rsAyOaqFPYzBL6II1te2zqYCzKLCpT4HpmPMuMa4HiVAWkNGgBB6ysXHKcA6T8ETfVduo/s1600-h/100_0985.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5293796116029841538" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimwRnBpfcZFtvI3NIYyLmATyk5fP7dVESd-wp6wJMoXrr-g0dDnwuzKWVEjzMbnX_IJd3YH0rsAyOaqFPYzBL6II1te2zqYCzKLCpT4HpmPMuMa4HiVAWkNGgBB6ysXHKcA6T8ETfVduo/s400/100_0985.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5293795597635759346" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_OqvCDMjtIkrVK7XYkewGwNyiocRiWnlcc0f-REZZBgEXeYXXqa4DJOp1umS3cBBIhKCfzYghQfpGNBOLpkPiP5qz61j4ZueguWykARyEh4u8qZNxCoemN7hBjgwBrRR6MR6a1MldXD4/s400/100_0989.JPG" border="0" /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7eO0WTOeh0UxLZNBEPZKOHdJlo3oaZQQuGZBy_xHZb7uU2cTloIAklFCx46apva9uymywqjHPILzmIP3ui62cVdDnkA8b4T1_YO8RtsfpyE0gxWpaq-zj-5yG6ygKMLOzqEvm6qcjNYA/s1600-h/100_0994.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5293795591670654738" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7eO0WTOeh0UxLZNBEPZKOHdJlo3oaZQQuGZBy_xHZb7uU2cTloIAklFCx46apva9uymywqjHPILzmIP3ui62cVdDnkA8b4T1_YO8RtsfpyE0gxWpaq-zj-5yG6ygKMLOzqEvm6qcjNYA/s400/100_0994.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><div><div><div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8KkzJhcSS7IUp3zYyXNYkm4nvTCJpdOTBsVew9KBwTbrULaA3RDjEfHwnwxe5fuU7K-tc3SSD8Ava0oaEDEq0sm52gvD1e2TOjU_rUn55cRPBTIqqLUg0i3TB7O59nhUJLu_FqTpHXHo/s1600-h/100_0998.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5293795583180185794" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8KkzJhcSS7IUp3zYyXNYkm4nvTCJpdOTBsVew9KBwTbrULaA3RDjEfHwnwxe5fuU7K-tc3SSD8Ava0oaEDEq0sm52gvD1e2TOjU_rUn55cRPBTIqqLUg0i3TB7O59nhUJLu_FqTpHXHo/s400/100_0998.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />crossing to tierra del fuego was a small ferry. the whole area hasnt moved in years. small villages just sit there with no inhabitants left. all windows smashed. just the wind left. a lonesome atmosphere. beautiful.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF9FYJdNxUVixrRmCGGjMEMXzo9N9vBgJ-vDua-wEhyeYpRo_rbbgkmGN7UHlY-ONIvTBy5jqOPnPqleXkdBdhZAgJ_UhbVeuC82fgXjjnfZZOdularDV4ChoF3EDhJnXI3IdsszAKxjI/s1600-h/100_1005.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5293795576798757682" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF9FYJdNxUVixrRmCGGjMEMXzo9N9vBgJ-vDua-wEhyeYpRo_rbbgkmGN7UHlY-ONIvTBy5jqOPnPqleXkdBdhZAgJ_UhbVeuC82fgXjjnfZZOdularDV4ChoF3EDhJnXI3IdsszAKxjI/s400/100_1005.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />tierra del fuego<br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUipPIV2RB3rNjCWoSZyrKE7orKjh0gAHz02tigB4OglsOu3ZQyq-aWsT8DgmM_UdIPnC79JsJyxtTZNvmFIV4VmWVLqJvMcyVaUGFVIXcutVaXSwaZe_94a0cDMXv_H1P_94-i55mCzg/s1600-h/100_1008.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5293794935228144930" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUipPIV2RB3rNjCWoSZyrKE7orKjh0gAHz02tigB4OglsOu3ZQyq-aWsT8DgmM_UdIPnC79JsJyxtTZNvmFIV4VmWVLqJvMcyVaUGFVIXcutVaXSwaZe_94a0cDMXv_H1P_94-i55mCzg/s400/100_1008.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvapdYvsFn0eWfU7upQN1QVxBFLk7y-69lBwPsPCcD5679Kd8r1NUrvXfM2UzfG6bmiDvBiNWBRxL9aE4immtw83UXNmCM1hiokyHRPofGTqA7jPW6-dDEkF8OEo38AlYBhDujf-0J0U4/s1600-h/100_1018.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5293794931787118018" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvapdYvsFn0eWfU7upQN1QVxBFLk7y-69lBwPsPCcD5679Kd8r1NUrvXfM2UzfG6bmiDvBiNWBRxL9aE4immtw83UXNmCM1hiokyHRPofGTqA7jPW6-dDEkF8OEo38AlYBhDujf-0J0U4/s400/100_1018.JPG" border="0" /></a> ushuaia. its all finished. the only thing left is to find a way home.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQhGWv9ENESWxHFeLGmtLJimwHXzBVgsFVwrJBtPdw6YaxdTeaAWwyiUTOzQEzko0uqGqcbi9pPcpEGw_Ge2G5zfXQYnvAp8dNwAosTov0Nu0MHhMQTaD0-1L8_EPcxs8jeJ_OYXaPRgA/s1600-h/100_1020.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5293794930600232754" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 110px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQhGWv9ENESWxHFeLGmtLJimwHXzBVgsFVwrJBtPdw6YaxdTeaAWwyiUTOzQEzko0uqGqcbi9pPcpEGw_Ge2G5zfXQYnvAp8dNwAosTov0Nu0MHhMQTaD0-1L8_EPcxs8jeJ_OYXaPRgA/s400/100_1020.JPG" border="0" /></a> ushuaia</div><div><br /><div> </div><div> </div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2GDNg1iesp-ggdf9x3qDbKhDnJJHKA1vwI3RN1ROW1GBT6qVvSKVTJadFB-jqInVfSGuBMu0UXAAsWqF7Twi7iIM2uV6mwOgHuD-XF8P4ckHv4WjYeqGkDvzwXid9mvTlToh2vD4X3jk/s1600-h/100_1010.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5293794936735312722" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2GDNg1iesp-ggdf9x3qDbKhDnJJHKA1vwI3RN1ROW1GBT6qVvSKVTJadFB-jqInVfSGuBMu0UXAAsWqF7Twi7iIM2uV6mwOgHuD-XF8P4ckHv4WjYeqGkDvzwXid9mvTlToh2vD4X3jk/s400/100_1010.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />tierra del fuego. heading south<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzW4AAynhZs6b0jFQ_nHhNBR3aVWepeZTtoFW-aIcm0D1nykY-fGZYBBykkTnM8m_JGaHMVE5YsMiB1lLNC1gySaAIOt8zKQdKYrL2K2UmDiNJXRAvKSDGBnbSlXLG_XwBG6GxWSAndUY/s1600-h/100_1021.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5293794925941817362" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 109px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzW4AAynhZs6b0jFQ_nHhNBR3aVWepeZTtoFW-aIcm0D1nykY-fGZYBBykkTnM8m_JGaHMVE5YsMiB1lLNC1gySaAIOt8zKQdKYrL2K2UmDiNJXRAvKSDGBnbSlXLG_XwBG6GxWSAndUY/s400/100_1021.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />ushuaia<br /><br /><div> </div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3949021732548206585.post-69766145075972153162009-01-13T14:13:00.031+00:002009-01-13T22:33:10.904+00:00deeper south into patagonia - fragile x families & new friends - a radio interview - the road to the ends of the earth<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd1jHUDvoifL-mKD61bu22-Y1hObHbWVMqz53RtFFQsmv-48AJgXiDODRgQVJo94xjjbkPc3tbFtM4yBPvpdEy12KZVYdCdMb5W4lnesOPX8aoIGtOywhBNODMvyBWimNpKozQTVprmyw/s1600-h/100_0689.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5290809434412158386" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 108px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd1jHUDvoifL-mKD61bu22-Y1hObHbWVMqz53RtFFQsmv-48AJgXiDODRgQVJo94xjjbkPc3tbFtM4yBPvpdEy12KZVYdCdMb5W4lnesOPX8aoIGtOywhBNODMvyBWimNpKozQTVprmyw/s400/100_0689.JPG" border="0" /></a> Buenos Aires is quiet now. the dakar racers and all the excited koas that the rally brings has gone south. dust trails sucked out of the city into the unknown. the first south american rally. i follow it out. a day later and at a very slower pace. Puerto Madryn is my destination. The famous seaside resort sits on the atlantic coast of patagonia. Cristina, lives there. She contacted me a long time ago, when i was in the early stages of getting my head around the trip. She has 2 children affected by fragile x syndrome. Maggie who has helped me along the way, with ideas and explanation sheets in spanish, back in london is Cristinas niece. Easy getting out of buenos aires. hit the main drag in the centre and fly down that south. half hour and im in the fields. Along Ruta 3. The road is a 100km straight, much like the roads in the north of the country. the wind gets fierce. when the road finaly turns , it turns to the west. a head wind strains the riding down to 4000revs and no more. much like riding at altitude, i cant throttle out anymore speed. concentration is hard here. the horizon doesnt move it stays far off. the fields stay the same. dry vegitation. the sky stays huge and blue. i turn south again, the wind turns to a cross wind. leaning into it becomes the normal riding position, at least a 10 degree drop towards the road surface. until the wind suddenly drops every once in while, dropping the bike to a further angle. all is ok , when you get used to it. 2 nights and a 5 hour tyre change in bahia blanca, to get to puerto madryn. crossing the rio negro i am told is the start of patagonia. patagonia, the land of the people with big feet. Dan is there. we left him to ride his own roads at christmas. its great to see the comical geezer again. he knocks up the best steaks and salads you can imagine. evenings in the hostel gardens, beef sitting over a flame, being watched and tossed by dan , are a perfect end to heavy days wind wrestling riding. I finaly contact Cristina here. i am a month late. originaly i planned to here early december. riding these continents is almost as unpredictable as sailing the seas. Cristina comes to my hostel with Barbara her daughter, who is affected with fragile x syndrome. As soon as we all meet i am filled with warmth and big smiles. we sit there for 2 hours laughing and chatting. my spanish has almost improved , by learning a new word at least once a week. cristinas english i see improve as we speak. barbara picks up the english words very quickly also. I am made so welcome, it couldnt be better.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn9QI4_AgeZR316sa6G67zj0QlD_FFKNLBbUqq1iFV9crqNxyK0MmZ3NpHz8Ji4Pw351I3vg4etLmsmXJjBCK_JjyaLfiiPZrjIWUhb-9lWEDh3TvGBFB4uwZYeQj2cj8391EUrWL7BTY/s1600-h/100_0704.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5290807804715554386" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn9QI4_AgeZR316sa6G67zj0QlD_FFKNLBbUqq1iFV9crqNxyK0MmZ3NpHz8Ji4Pw351I3vg4etLmsmXJjBCK_JjyaLfiiPZrjIWUhb-9lWEDh3TvGBFB4uwZYeQj2cj8391EUrWL7BTY/s400/100_0704.JPG" border="0" /></a> the next day cristina introduces me to Andres, her son and jose a friend who also has 2 children affected by fragile x syndrome. above in the photo from left to right : cristina, andres, barbara, jose and me. I was taken around the town, to all the best spots. never a dull moment. we are all laughing and joking all day long. the plan is to get a radio interview. cristina has a friend involved in radio. Barbara and andres are brilliant with this stranger from england. Its hard to recognise the FXS affects. I see now that my Sian at home, is so much more affected by this syndrome. My new firends show no signs of autism spectrum disorder that sian does. The more i get to know these lot the more i am warmed. they are all very close and understanding of each other.<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh29Ly42dL_dSOTP_kuag1FYhRNtTX_yk0M33KKB7oHTKeZir_bAjLvfEb4rZNdIe_qs2J765dkbHTaX27GGyoGYt3eTYeJxdVRfIacMKiRU9SV-jMOfnFJvoIZ6KwswtRueUrhclKW2OU/s1600-h/100_0719.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5290806932121697058" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh29Ly42dL_dSOTP_kuag1FYhRNtTX_yk0M33KKB7oHTKeZir_bAjLvfEb4rZNdIe_qs2J765dkbHTaX27GGyoGYt3eTYeJxdVRfIacMKiRU9SV-jMOfnFJvoIZ6KwswtRueUrhclKW2OU/s400/100_0719.JPG" border="0" /></a> Andres is a golf fanatic and judging by all his trophies, a top player.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFV1z5D2whA-vTfdLWfuiJlKPskSp2CLmPNNnUqraNijS81XJWvdaJjAvWwCr-kuo12n2c2GvKfBOndRbCpTr0yVCvgkpXZzoLZmf7o8EqoMTNvCOulHWaU7HZu_i4s_rvpvui4KqZseA/s1600-h/100_0720.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5290806186688521266" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFV1z5D2whA-vTfdLWfuiJlKPskSp2CLmPNNnUqraNijS81XJWvdaJjAvWwCr-kuo12n2c2GvKfBOndRbCpTr0yVCvgkpXZzoLZmf7o8EqoMTNvCOulHWaU7HZu_i4s_rvpvui4KqZseA/s400/100_0720.JPG" border="0" /></a> jose has 2 children also affected by fragile x syndrome. Ignacio who is 15 years old and sabrina who is 25. jose is full of fun. he has me in stiches for the time we meet. he loves his 2 wheels also, dashing and darting about puerto madryn on this nippy machine.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsTH5Ub0KwZntGs2H_jDa1hkSjZI56Q1ueZ8ZZRot4Bxm3DLQ3ymVJV6rJmx3RKkDK9ynvFEd1zD4GfSd8fy0rDZn-LUMU66q84zl-efW1LRJzSUyQaM1ZvsL0j0hCWw3YDRdz4cIZWRs/s1600-h/100_0722.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5290805403111078402" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsTH5Ub0KwZntGs2H_jDa1hkSjZI56Q1ueZ8ZZRot4Bxm3DLQ3ymVJV6rJmx3RKkDK9ynvFEd1zD4GfSd8fy0rDZn-LUMU66q84zl-efW1LRJzSUyQaM1ZvsL0j0hCWw3YDRdz4cIZWRs/s400/100_0722.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />The last nights meal. i much on those perfect argentine steaks. vino tinto and dolce leche. again i dont have to put my hands in my pockets. i miss my new mates.<br /><br /><br /><div><div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgflo-6HSiARMcmKn4ZAHrAAhas_iA0HqaGj34HgVwPCaRXBaE6L-QIaWgqmLWccWKJD13_qZ3Eaz6eTd7iE9D-x0gEDzDhCSVQi5hpVuVJ9yfIljwcLlCIHKT7OlDPf79MyId9TgtdxpQ/s1600-h/052.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5290802425262652690" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 292px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgflo-6HSiARMcmKn4ZAHrAAhas_iA0HqaGj34HgVwPCaRXBaE6L-QIaWgqmLWccWKJD13_qZ3Eaz6eTd7iE9D-x0gEDzDhCSVQi5hpVuVJ9yfIljwcLlCIHKT7OlDPf79MyId9TgtdxpQ/s400/052.jpg" border="0" /></a> <img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5290803701257847058" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5UXQ4c3T-UXSQToL12VauYXuyQpiJ08BkmYyYkT7hieti8riO5IYM7TLeq6Rqs7FuHGWpoAyVuZwhZ-867mkQExjFaL_xR7XmIQrwABImBlUOjLQ7E0imAKFIuZ-pHXE0MTfVz4XCOTU/s400/046.jpg" border="0" /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5290804654448877330" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 292px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl_88mWuISOf4b-3WgDFIZmQS1JpR1JqBL-9-XhqJrpy-Sm9doiQFrQ3C_esAxwz8Yp6Ur2SrD9vZW7x4FuCWc7oP-ygkWFlmM0mHeKfhjoRdGkae0OC3jtxiDParNtsSTqmiXJru1aUY/s400/047.jpg" border="0" /><br />Irene (in blue) is Cristinas friend. she speaks perfect english. she teaches english and sometimes is a guide down south in patagonia. A radio interview is arranged by Irene. she has a weekly show on this east coast station. the audiance reaches north to Buenos Aires and who knows how far south. Im nervous, as i havent done anything like this since the TV in Trujillo, Peru. Its fine though. the bloke interviewer is full of energy, which rubs off on us all and he quickly understands whats going on with the syndrome. Irene, translates fast and furious, not missing a trick. 15 minutes into the interview, the phone calls start coming in , along with emails. all from listeners interested in FXS. We bring cristina into the interview, to answer the callers questions. A lady caler asks where she can get her kids blood tested for the syndrome. cristina mentions, that Buenos Aires is the only place in argentina that this can be done. The whole thing lasts half hour. a real success. im chuffed, we all are. thank you mr interviewer, irene, for her perfect ability and of course cristina who, deepened the whole expereince. Cristina is travelling to santiago, chile, in weeks to come , because 2 researchers from the USA are talking a conference , regarding recent finds, in medicine, that perhaps will help with altereing affects of the syndrome. apparently adding protein to needy fragile chromosome. fingers crossed !!<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYGJpl77jf7UxpR4WW5INSyPjM4NZoTwdD_78x_7CCOCUoQbWoMCSIihytT7ChKGGuWuxAzbsIkAOqyolHdJ4c9KUHQqXI2BjKfdcgV0t4fwSRVIW9TXIXIX0dz0AgkZWbIHKCXucoJDo/s1600-h/023.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5290801509036140258" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYGJpl77jf7UxpR4WW5INSyPjM4NZoTwdD_78x_7CCOCUoQbWoMCSIihytT7ChKGGuWuxAzbsIkAOqyolHdJ4c9KUHQqXI2BjKfdcgV0t4fwSRVIW9TXIXIX0dz0AgkZWbIHKCXucoJDo/s400/023.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />This is a bay near puerto madryn, that i was lucky enough to be taken to by cristina and her family. Jose being a photographer took some incredible pics of these huge sea beasts. sea lions in english. lobos in castellano. they made a right racket.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfc7q3G0puxkKToah2BcsFtvSfsCldZJCa05ubzVBCe2adOEji5MWMwEhUeIAs7etuntzniqYJ68tl9WP7yWfByLvQUtz7RHTsHqiPI5E5Hz6eN_jZL4CJwQ-DaL9jAgHYh5T1kigAPNk/s1600-h/036.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5290799708723414018" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfc7q3G0puxkKToah2BcsFtvSfsCldZJCa05ubzVBCe2adOEji5MWMwEhUeIAs7etuntzniqYJ68tl9WP7yWfByLvQUtz7RHTsHqiPI5E5Hz6eN_jZL4CJwQ-DaL9jAgHYh5T1kigAPNk/s400/036.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />the bull. in crontrol of all things seals<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9RfsQqwHEzNJgxvIpsFb6Oz6nb0oNUO01_398-bVTVAg3C3TpPbfriz22smwTej6emBWhfPTbs-q-YGr6_8sYAeXmG-ELN4hsUB3KF05AVqOF5Z83XNbjTRZA1iQ6N_lvhbmXfVtKCF0/s1600-h/100_0754.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5290798210893480610" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 300px; HEIGHT: 400px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9RfsQqwHEzNJgxvIpsFb6Oz6nb0oNUO01_398-bVTVAg3C3TpPbfriz22smwTej6emBWhfPTbs-q-YGr6_8sYAeXmG-ELN4hsUB3KF05AVqOF5Z83XNbjTRZA1iQ6N_lvhbmXfVtKCF0/s400/100_0754.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Along the atlantic coast, deeper into patagonia is a penguin colony. these little blokes didnt care about humans, romping through their manor.<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKlb740h8nHjMPRZhHxoaGuG-qYbIwMi5kp0N3Y8RjYNYxYBhwXJGFjglpZa1mb5uEZpfs5undtXVkpFVnofXKG3y8RCByWBQg55qlXaK9wJ6bjmMBfEB52dNj6EeZ_e9RJrJflqycv4U/s1600-h/100_0756.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5290797455926351138" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKlb740h8nHjMPRZhHxoaGuG-qYbIwMi5kp0N3Y8RjYNYxYBhwXJGFjglpZa1mb5uEZpfs5undtXVkpFVnofXKG3y8RCByWBQg55qlXaK9wJ6bjmMBfEB52dNj6EeZ_e9RJrJflqycv4U/s400/100_0756.JPG" border="0" /></a>man looks at penguin. penguin looks at man. Dan and his new found friend.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisIPte1JDksxfhQ2dmmNXkyetBk_KFnbyIOiMCZu2rYzIDgeca-R50jipnob6ZvHUkbAkJ4-4jy1Y7UwEVMN7vK_FAQgIw_seEUx-Ktmr2zd509oRQKKnfAZIYgcmvHgrOLV32rp6E3Jc/s1600-h/100_0762.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5290796752504686466" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 300px; HEIGHT: 400px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisIPte1JDksxfhQ2dmmNXkyetBk_KFnbyIOiMCZu2rYzIDgeca-R50jipnob6ZvHUkbAkJ4-4jy1Y7UwEVMN7vK_FAQgIw_seEUx-Ktmr2zd509oRQKKnfAZIYgcmvHgrOLV32rp6E3Jc/s400/100_0762.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhajjxGRYtZsEQWEsAxKIi_PPlQMfwQY3FElg9S-MGeJDgF3TtQiXNg_bH0pd9n-8K5G21-Cm-l2ly1xy51rI-a0YCnlUnxL933yTLcd01yaHkbPZrPUOkmY5mTGAa9KPXmPg1CpQuNQvY/s1600-h/100_0765.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5290795760005141778" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhajjxGRYtZsEQWEsAxKIi_PPlQMfwQY3FElg9S-MGeJDgF3TtQiXNg_bH0pd9n-8K5G21-Cm-l2ly1xy51rI-a0YCnlUnxL933yTLcd01yaHkbPZrPUOkmY5mTGAa9KPXmPg1CpQuNQvY/s400/100_0765.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCA5qxy19nB8-xTakeE7nYq8vcARPZvZJpRjVhTIyqrdmQqgo_B9hJSi4AdeIjqrau4jGgnprqVgKjDDCjxgMe0QhU3EIRj7gEYBXvMgrgvhtnapfeDK1OahRYzWKMZmD9ZruHmTuY-Is/s1600-h/100_0780.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5290794732805672738" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCA5qxy19nB8-xTakeE7nYq8vcARPZvZJpRjVhTIyqrdmQqgo_B9hJSi4AdeIjqrau4jGgnprqVgKjDDCjxgMe0QhU3EIRj7gEYBXvMgrgvhtnapfeDK1OahRYzWKMZmD9ZruHmTuY-Is/s400/100_0780.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />these red shrines can be seen all over argentina. it a good luck shrine dedicated to gauchito gil. n argentine hero from the 19th century. give him gifts and you might be lucky.<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjietP3qFGHS8cM67lIG_U_q69MAOMyP0bf-uAkGQFq7Y1D12AzmSNDunoSXYAx57LxYf45iKU5sSb-waMPI5ZfLQfJJCZ30hCLyC4_QI55fI8xpapjVaNs_oXy19RZ2rOGcexErxnF-r0/s1600-h/100_0781.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5290793830397803090" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjietP3qFGHS8cM67lIG_U_q69MAOMyP0bf-uAkGQFq7Y1D12AzmSNDunoSXYAx57LxYf45iKU5sSb-waMPI5ZfLQfJJCZ30hCLyC4_QI55fI8xpapjVaNs_oXy19RZ2rOGcexErxnF-r0/s400/100_0781.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />travelling to the west side of argentina. near the chilean frontier. head south down ruta 40. a road that drift down for 5000kms. top to bottom of argentina. i head south on it at 125kms north of perito moreno. its a famous road amongst overlanders. notorious for its harsh winds and dirt.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCfutgASGqnr9WGTX7jvOz7YtnUp9oAiH88UR1NZa3hyphenhyphen5tP8p4komZM1hBeq5XoreIbk7IWC-eHck535znAkL8XFgUSOycrQ0wPMhfat0KMV69HwHpsBA89w7d46cDDfEvpWz-hxTVVLw/s1600-h/100_0782.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5290792895130955090" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCfutgASGqnr9WGTX7jvOz7YtnUp9oAiH88UR1NZa3hyphenhyphen5tP8p4komZM1hBeq5XoreIbk7IWC-eHck535znAkL8XFgUSOycrQ0wPMhfat0KMV69HwHpsBA89w7d46cDDfEvpWz-hxTVVLw/s400/100_0782.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />staright away, 10kms in, the road splits. no signs. just the sun to give a direction. dan and mike discussing which fork to take. as it happens we take the left fork. the right one.<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZF9UmY-5-HylcxxDqAmA7DtFmXg-qVuSRUQookhVmSnOsgjup2E6onbfhFvqk463688BtsSDWPM25QRK4lAIOplQ4dzY_20p7d09iSLCq7cf6H2FZJsjoQ-iQsi22LJo5dhPfnDkFKLU/s1600-h/100_0783.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5290791887840144242" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZF9UmY-5-HylcxxDqAmA7DtFmXg-qVuSRUQookhVmSnOsgjup2E6onbfhFvqk463688BtsSDWPM25QRK4lAIOplQ4dzY_20p7d09iSLCq7cf6H2FZJsjoQ-iQsi22LJo5dhPfnDkFKLU/s400/100_0783.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />endless straights, along compact gravel, loose rocks and deep ruts left by trucks using the same lines. the sun goes down leaving this vast expanse, light up like fire.<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOFsq23DlOT_YRUX9h1TCSgy4CLNLWn9MSNCLSbzSqflks6g4m9VSqbP6AC8aio6smnI5KTWTfrl1D7-tT8qJVUR9oVLvZ6GKP2CohGQsjg3AuyFUZ62xTV86m54u4bjaU8bxV2FPdEb0/s1600-h/100_0799.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5290790675135292002" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 114px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOFsq23DlOT_YRUX9h1TCSgy4CLNLWn9MSNCLSbzSqflks6g4m9VSqbP6AC8aio6smnI5KTWTfrl1D7-tT8qJVUR9oVLvZ6GKP2CohGQsjg3AuyFUZ62xTV86m54u4bjaU8bxV2FPdEb0/s400/100_0799.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />when the gravel heads west in a falling sun, nothing can be seen. the glare is painful. slow down and push your luck. it works. no one falls.<br /><br /><br /><div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVuMbDH6lgaiBEKhCGzyiPb4blJAIrbeNwj1E6ohIr_7sD8DmvC7I1YqAq3iBFrfLPJx9mNe1_y-DjYyLWvk9ACpwxxcRmSWHCaDbqLkulweZWRh3bic1Yj9SJE06uI0Qn3LOv1RD-Gls/s1600-h/100_0818.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5290788626968042738" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVuMbDH6lgaiBEKhCGzyiPb4blJAIrbeNwj1E6ohIr_7sD8DmvC7I1YqAq3iBFrfLPJx9mNe1_y-DjYyLWvk9ACpwxxcRmSWHCaDbqLkulweZWRh3bic1Yj9SJE06uI0Qn3LOv1RD-Gls/s400/100_0818.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />guanaco. they just blend into their surroundings, dashing out at high speed into the road.<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUIzrOH08TBQY7Ll_NabKXF2OSjMsIuaIsyk4P85Yx2q5S2veMd2HKmGCr3LtnCtcZ_pIkD_rLHtWef3jTXEQP5B-qktK9NuDy5xLfR6Lco4Uv1NAGYaSureWzdTP8QtliN_iFQRIUPYQ/s1600-h/100_0829.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5290787413720123842" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUIzrOH08TBQY7Ll_NabKXF2OSjMsIuaIsyk4P85Yx2q5S2veMd2HKmGCr3LtnCtcZ_pIkD_rLHtWef3jTXEQP5B-qktK9NuDy5xLfR6Lco4Uv1NAGYaSureWzdTP8QtliN_iFQRIUPYQ/s400/100_0829.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />met these 6 or 7 argentines. all cycling a large part of the ruta 40 south.<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPqNYETXpbb7sKvYViYjQ4pMpu55b54Z4nNUnMdKMxtUV84zpUDpUL37N-aUD64HxoK3AxeX6cUTdpZPNcGzA6FpckjkgiR8Jqru9sWpAZnF7t7P5mn18Cu4qKVeRirZ3K5ujsP-L3Ga8/s1600-h/100_0834.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5290786449970141778" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPqNYETXpbb7sKvYViYjQ4pMpu55b54Z4nNUnMdKMxtUV84zpUDpUL37N-aUD64HxoK3AxeX6cUTdpZPNcGzA6FpckjkgiR8Jqru9sWpAZnF7t7P5mn18Cu4qKVeRirZ3K5ujsP-L3Ga8/s400/100_0834.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />aproaching the end of that days section of ruta 40, we found this german bloke, leo wandering around infront of an ambulance asking what country he was in. he has wrecked his africa twin 750 honda. he couldnt remember what happened. looks like he was fast across a deep dune of gravel which twitched him into a frenzy. the bike must have sumersalted a few 10s of metres, judging by the wreck.the ambulance left him there with us. we got a tow truck to pick his wreck up and we got him to hospital in la calafatte. dan road with the ambualance all the way. 200kms away. he is ok, just a bit in shock and scatter brained for now.<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpzGA-hfuCdUOXLoYhR0W-MQwYtRHA0IkPWCh-7IXwn1zAPbXwyatxoosHlnNJLL3hnCNhyphenhyphenn4Sgp439pcdQsRWctv4MKDTRylDhIILmIpy_1d6brdpQOPtm7BxxM6O0yq5K_jo9AtxasQ/s1600-h/100_0839.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5290785503793134738" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 110px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpzGA-hfuCdUOXLoYhR0W-MQwYtRHA0IkPWCh-7IXwn1zAPbXwyatxoosHlnNJLL3hnCNhyphenhyphenn4Sgp439pcdQsRWctv4MKDTRylDhIILmIpy_1d6brdpQOPtm7BxxM6O0yq5K_jo9AtxasQ/s400/100_0839.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />approaching the bizzare and wonderful mount fitzroy in el chalten, patagonia. the wind was double strong along this stretch. seeing the range come up over the horizon is spectacular. fitz roy is named after the captain of the beagle, the ship Mr darwin sailed the local seas down here in, discovering stuff.<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPWvh7oDSnLntxTysSPM0KRGPwpDrEr6405OymBYeR9TPIPwgj1XdHwEmdGOh44-xnDnnFe437USIdK_e4HrpSRsFMivHWlyk9_hdmq7jrpape6UdjX6_rxnsjiDibKMpll43S7fc9fmI/s1600-h/100_0851.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5290782991308781986" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPWvh7oDSnLntxTysSPM0KRGPwpDrEr6405OymBYeR9TPIPwgj1XdHwEmdGOh44-xnDnnFe437USIdK_e4HrpSRsFMivHWlyk9_hdmq7jrpape6UdjX6_rxnsjiDibKMpll43S7fc9fmI/s400/100_0851.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />fitz roy, the tallest peak. just like a scene from a dark fantasy.<br /><br /><br /><div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3949021732548206585.post-59819598428074276802009-01-02T12:54:00.029+00:002009-01-02T16:54:00.048+00:00The straight and uneasy road to Buenos Aires<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5286689471696909938" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBkqLwrPb48BPiaT_cYfCK3Gq544ZLDEVf1CjUwC6sK34o2LiE6tIv05do4TG20xFNo0Npvs98exhpbt1CjCSy8Twwi5wPw0XSYJd5kzLVXKmqqKQVx6qGfXsGVaffOvHN3lUCW010TBw/s400/100_0627.JPG" border="0" /><br />The peace of mind lasts 60miles out of Tucuman. Raul Becker in tucuman, and his boys had spent the whole day digging into my bike searching for answers. The spluttering had to be a moody carb. A clean and a refit was all that was needed. the starter problem was all in the cleaning of the wires in the box, on the handlebars. And scratching the white crusty stuff on the battery connectors. 60 miles out im spluttering and buckerooing all over the road again. arghhhhhhhhh !! no more !!!! All i had to do was switch the tank tap to reserve and alls rosy on the spluttering front. the pipe leading from the tap into the tank thats not the reserve pipe must be blocked. i blame bolivian sand myself. The bike starts after a few attempts of pressing the starter button, but its still a worry that it will erode into uselessness, somewhere up high and nowhere near anything. Cordoba is the next nights stop. it being a large city , they should have a mechanic to scratch his brow over the bike there. Cordoba. They say it is the cultural capital of the americas. loads of universities, museums and art , everywhere. to be honest all i noticed was a decent mechanic and a million beautiful , i mean very beautiful women everywhere. A wonderful place to sit drink coffee and just watch the world. I spend 2 nights here. the bike starter problem is understood. the clutch sensor has decided that with all the miles from alaska it is a weakling. 2 pumps of the clutch everytime i go to start the bike , it starts. reliable as regular postroom deliverys at Aon London !! .. did i mention my speedo hasnt worked since the ecuador - peru border ? cant remember... mike has marked down most of the miles, but i am unsure acuratly. i think its around 17 or 18 thousand.... will study a map and get a more acurate guess one day soon. After 100s of cafe side coffees im off to buenos aires..... not even out of cordoba and my bike is all over the place. a savage rattle scaring the life out me comes from below. my rear wheel bearings have been crushed and eaten alive. im not going anywhere. the sun is a melting pot fire. we take the wheel off. half the bearings have disintergrated and the other half , crushed flat. the casing is split into 3 pieces. my sweaty bald head is in my hands and my elbows on my knees as i sit leaning against a shop window, which turns out to be a moto mechanics tienda. mike gets chatting to a local fella who says he will take mike and the wheel down the road to a tyre fitters to see if they have a new bearing, while i stay as i am, a shell of a man with his head still in his hands. they dissapear for 3 hours. the sun moves around baking my brains even more. i dont care. im visited by, elvio, luis and frank. followed by gregg and his brother ignacio. 10 mins later im laughing about and chatting all things bikes, babes, basketball and general man stuff. i speak terrible mockney spanish, they dont speak english except gregg and ignacio. i understand most of what we say. all great once again. these people just want me to be happy and they incourage me that the bearing is no problem. they seem very sure and convince me. mike turns up with the first chap we met, who drove the wheel away . carlos and his kid son. the bearings new and fitted.... we all exchange details and say hard goodbyes then we are off. into a falling day and loads of miles, or so i think !...... from cordoba its around 700 ks. . this part of argentina, is very flat. the roads are endless straights. A strong wind seems to always be head on. the views either side are green oceans of corn fields and just fields. towns turn up. all the shops are large agricutural machine selling warehouse type shops. A salar shows up. mike decides to have a look . about half mile off the road. he falls off the bike again when the sand around the salar reminds him of bolivia. 100 miles out of cordoba, "bang !!!" oil everywhere ! mikes ktm is spitting out the dark fluid like i have never seen before. im relieved it isnt my bike. i imagine a football size hole in the belly of the bike. its his ususal oil sensor problem thats been irritating him for weeks now. lucky once more though, we are stopped at an asado restuaurant, with a kawasaki dealer next to it. looks like goodfellas are all sitting outside the asado place. i approach them tentatively. they all smile and get me to join them munching the big famous beef, pig, brains, tongue, pollo asado that argentina is so famous for. incredible food. i cant resist. brains are har dto get used to as the fellas all laugh at my struggle swallowing the grey matter. could you resist if you were here ?! it would turn any veggie back into a carnivore , im sure . the wine is just as good as the munch. corrrrrrr. we stay a night . buenos aires seemingly moving further away from us. mikes bike is in great hands. jose and the boys deal with the stroppy sensor easy. creating a new gasket for it out of nothing. Theres a firework display on that night at midnight. its new years eves, eve. we ride the bikes down there. we are crowded out by loads of people. i am actually asked for my autograph. i can only think they thought i am a dakar racer. i felt fake. i didnt try and be anything else apart from a foreigner riding his bike into town. i thanked them more than they thanked me, for doing it. im sure the next morning they must have confused expressions saying, "who the hell was that baldylocks ?" and "what actually is fragile x syndrome ?" ..... we get going the next morning, hard goodbyes again. mikes oil starts weeping out again. its not too harsh coz we can sort it in buenos aires. he just keeps topping it up every so and so miles.... its new years eve now. we full throttle for the city , with dreams of a special night out in a romantic lively city. night falls too quick. we end up staying in a small town 70 miles out of buenos aires. our hotel is a back street homage to the days of art deco. a dusty smell in the air, a ticking clock, and mumbling men, who become our companions for the celibrations. the owner is maria, a right laugh. she takes the mick out of all of us, even though i cant understand a word she says , im still belly laughing. we find an asado shop with a circular grill the size of a large car. dead animals stretched all around it. we buy cow and chicken. i stuff my face with the butter like meat, smiling and not missing the dreams of the big city night out i was dreaming about. 12 oclock comes. me, mike, maria and an old boy toast the ano nuevo with gorgeous sweet champagne. bed by 1, sober and glad. Sunshine new years day and off to buenos aires. im excited. all that has conjured up in mind over the years about this city and now im just gonna ride into it. Not many cars about . all must still have their heads in their pillows and why not. the suburbs come past miles out of where the signs say the city is. this place must be huge. 13 million im told. a mad alien space ship car comes roaring past us on 5 lane highway. Im reminded, this is where the dakar rally is this year. gone from africa. some say coz of terrorist threats , some say coz of the amount of racers that get killed every year. who knows. im just excited that its here, where i am. we roll into the city getting lost straight away. i run out of petrol on a very busy road. i have my spare jerry can topped. Another space ship flys past. we chase it into a garage, right next to the river plate stadium. im grinning like never before. im next to this amazing famous stadium. who remembers argentina 78 ? mario kempes, those 2 ugly dutch twins ? and archy gemmils goal ? .. we chat to the team in the mad car. russians. very friendly and insightful about the nut case rally. people crowd us as much as they crowd the car. i feel like a kareoke rock star again. this is buenos aires. the streets are wide the buildings high. each one a different character. the people are all dressed immaculate. no litter anywhere. the buzz of the dakar is all over. a ridiculous truck burns down a street, its a back up vehicle for a racer. built to drive vertical up the andes and over the atacama desert. the bikes are lined up down a closed street. everywhere we stop, people come flying over to say hello. i manage to get a radio interview straight away. it is polish radio station, covering the rally. they want to know why i have ridden from alaska to here and what i think of those mental racers, who i admire more than any other racing genre racers. that evening KTM are having a conference. mike needs a new sensor desperate now. he has a ktm shirt. we must blag our way in and meet the stars and get his sensor. can i leave this city ?<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNsO7TBHinxUWbcBTwR7umjRlN4FTN6diGSiiXFRw5jxndRS5d1L8QYRe1N3wxKuJyASWp9kgPcPHC0tLC_JDtaO203wsdSdlqtZVYxvb0RDj9JhZFMjx5NKa4ubmj9TnCRR57yqULY-k/s1600-h/100_0622.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5286689824045939762" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNsO7TBHinxUWbcBTwR7umjRlN4FTN6diGSiiXFRw5jxndRS5d1L8QYRe1N3wxKuJyASWp9kgPcPHC0tLC_JDtaO203wsdSdlqtZVYxvb0RDj9JhZFMjx5NKa4ubmj9TnCRR57yqULY-k/s400/100_0622.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Cordoba. they say the Americas cultural capital ?<br /><div><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq5YbFBrYRz4c_GEp5YdsScEaq-4Ohe3VA1iYGst6Maz49QJb9s3VqkjSbt4lnqA4eeJhzlJDjg6kW0C_5ZLiiMZ4473iTdkY56FFexdYwSrAks7eninj8319TTI_BhDpjwEgghFHUpqU/s1600-h/cordoba,+villa+maria..new+year+bordeo+020.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5286689111269758914" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq5YbFBrYRz4c_GEp5YdsScEaq-4Ohe3VA1iYGst6Maz49QJb9s3VqkjSbt4lnqA4eeJhzlJDjg6kW0C_5ZLiiMZ4473iTdkY56FFexdYwSrAks7eninj8319TTI_BhDpjwEgghFHUpqU/s400/cordoba,+villa+maria..new+year+bordeo+020.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Cordoba traffic. Not as nut case as other cities.<br /><div><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoN2i2whAXcyy02sIA-cX4DePOojF7Xef5-d2mxZuJzkf0kYxWYXKHDD6KPRCRvozmQlLoAIyB7RsTX5_5h3BdcLB-3W-E8_whOTR7keOf2fPbnrw5v-ds2Qnhlj5JgtGEyjtzf8rfSwo/s1600-h/cordoba,+villa+maria..new+year+bordeo+006.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5286687826889717170" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoN2i2whAXcyy02sIA-cX4DePOojF7Xef5-d2mxZuJzkf0kYxWYXKHDD6KPRCRvozmQlLoAIyB7RsTX5_5h3BdcLB-3W-E8_whOTR7keOf2fPbnrw5v-ds2Qnhlj5JgtGEyjtzf8rfSwo/s400/cordoba,+villa+maria..new+year+bordeo+006.jpg" border="0" /></a> </div><div>Cordoba<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6V1vxYoIbLRs0QI8jA2g9aH3ZzCABybH9dgCE2UDspH09JJDCsE-1fPsZUHtzExIZm6i276Bvbs72xmictNa_EPVMT-a9ETNh9H4NxL1zG-knuuBhMppjYieOSQfJ3Qc1NLKbFAJLyMk/s1600-h/cordoba,+villa+maria..new+year+bordeo+005.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5286687813241165522" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6V1vxYoIbLRs0QI8jA2g9aH3ZzCABybH9dgCE2UDspH09JJDCsE-1fPsZUHtzExIZm6i276Bvbs72xmictNa_EPVMT-a9ETNh9H4NxL1zG-knuuBhMppjYieOSQfJ3Qc1NLKbFAJLyMk/s400/cordoba,+villa+maria..new+year+bordeo+005.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Cordoba<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqv3qDg3ikVaoTtYguELcEWXQXppHPAJOkVJgrM0TDQlA2QKiTizdnuNiScqtIk5sDGXFrIz68ZfRu3OVv1fxhG-Cz1jk3zIdM1k0I2KX59gSUXxPeil7skqSK76TjKR3Er8SSiQTmw54/s1600-h/cordoba,+villa+maria..new+year+bordeo+010.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5286687833416562338" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqv3qDg3ikVaoTtYguELcEWXQXppHPAJOkVJgrM0TDQlA2QKiTizdnuNiScqtIk5sDGXFrIz68ZfRu3OVv1fxhG-Cz1jk3zIdM1k0I2KX59gSUXxPeil7skqSK76TjKR3Er8SSiQTmw54/s400/cordoba,+villa+maria..new+year+bordeo+010.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />cordoba<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMB_UQ7xd0HT3fRHNJUgLa1uWSU7jp1QbjSAT5ulGhRbK4XZEYUikvE_njLAxReQiIPaaD3sHUtiNclN6GemonEZNbdoPHmdiXwBRP9HcRayPtGx68F3erDoofq4X_ZendSsEfkDgfs1w/s1600-h/100_0624.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5286686309331240034" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMB_UQ7xd0HT3fRHNJUgLa1uWSU7jp1QbjSAT5ulGhRbK4XZEYUikvE_njLAxReQiIPaaD3sHUtiNclN6GemonEZNbdoPHmdiXwBRP9HcRayPtGx68F3erDoofq4X_ZendSsEfkDgfs1w/s400/100_0624.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />cordoba<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig5sBEqog2be5Dpsl1NOQYIR4r8EeeYqnbbZsYBV6SuXyZ7GvA5_F2zYzTt8HT6jW7rgUk6wtze9kEgPhB5jyZmvYQgY_f7nZdscFa04T3A0FOzrWXnjuqvmtN3MnLJfRN-4X46o4N1mg/s1600-h/100_0628.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5286686054641792706" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig5sBEqog2be5Dpsl1NOQYIR4r8EeeYqnbbZsYBV6SuXyZ7GvA5_F2zYzTt8HT6jW7rgUk6wtze9kEgPhB5jyZmvYQgY_f7nZdscFa04T3A0FOzrWXnjuqvmtN3MnLJfRN-4X46o4N1mg/s400/100_0628.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Carlos, his son , Luis and his son frank. All incredible people, who spent an afternoon helping and cheering up a total alien stranger. I would still be there now , leaning on that yellow shop head in hands, if it wasnt for them.<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLZj5ZYOFKueBn90b1h0Z9JdyND_7hVhoq6tSSYZ5JszzYWvXjv1crmBLvL1CnG2Rm1Ob8tRu5Vo13fyx5Y3jHQEE6oaWJxFFtFcDqso1wJhRXWnnWGxIX9oDEhlepWp4R6tG-uGuCgho/s1600-h/100_0629.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5286686047160002114" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLZj5ZYOFKueBn90b1h0Z9JdyND_7hVhoq6tSSYZ5JszzYWvXjv1crmBLvL1CnG2Rm1Ob8tRu5Vo13fyx5Y3jHQEE6oaWJxFFtFcDqso1wJhRXWnnWGxIX9oDEhlepWp4R6tG-uGuCgho/s400/100_0629.JPG" border="0" /></a> Ignacio, Luis, Mike, Frank and Elvio. All mates withing a matter of minutes. Elvio coaches a local basketball side. top luck to him ! Luis and frank run a car fixer and sprayers shop. All immaculate work. Ignacio a top translator. Gregg his brother is out of picture , coz he ran down a few blocks to get myself and mike a gift. Cordobans ! thank you !!<br /><br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5286688468821455394" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSk3Wf_5kwclkOOWWWRc5Y_Sp8lUHpJBMAWaZOtZv8Hh7YGefs7wHCdFEdr44BuMlQj8NRuSCC5_S3QrQBLDKYtJvHTbFMLStuQLWhMuYDeF_BiQEX0XZ3C19_KPtPdEGcz-kNmjoi88g/s400/cordoba,+villa+maria..new+year+bordeo+030.jpg" border="0" /> </div><div></div><div>In the town of Villa Maria, where mikes bike was leaking oil. Jose at GAF MOTOS was no end of help and laughs. These boys no how to get the job done and laugh. the next day full of concerns and questons. not just letting yet another punter just go away.<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg0qjoRx7TZOz-BP61wpSYV4Dv2lB2kltIig-IJ4N2sFuoEsIpGl_06H0iiNnzS3pkp9AqHxC2-06wcYEL8c26o31opx0r336DClnEimK_3_p33QWrdnE59MPv6i17KERkvLJP4v4ANbE/s1600-h/100_0630.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5286685633245072402" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg0qjoRx7TZOz-BP61wpSYV4Dv2lB2kltIig-IJ4N2sFuoEsIpGl_06H0iiNnzS3pkp9AqHxC2-06wcYEL8c26o31opx0r336DClnEimK_3_p33QWrdnE59MPv6i17KERkvLJP4v4ANbE/s400/100_0630.JPG" border="0" /></a> </div><div>Villa Maria, adado restuarant. this food is tasty incredible. more meat on that grill than the field next door ! sizzling and smoking all day long.<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuTuj20HY4XibzfvxTjVUrE8zPfeRsstDFodmcxxd2br1fC8aJ6G1LnvLfyLvj9FFcorBjGJePXFP6EPY8BeUEHKwJv8oC5UfSE__oC2odB6VLE_BBt4woS_FVPfFi3lNynr0fyd60VvA/s1600-h/100_0631.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5286685328890965602" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 300px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 400px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuTuj20HY4XibzfvxTjVUrE8zPfeRsstDFodmcxxd2br1fC8aJ6G1LnvLfyLvj9FFcorBjGJePXFP6EPY8BeUEHKwJv8oC5UfSE__oC2odB6VLE_BBt4woS_FVPfFi3lNynr0fyd60VvA/s400/100_0631.JPG" border="0" /></a> nearing Buenos Aires<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2WKuCicpJNvJwvTRxCEsB_03ibraQDYBMZhQ4HMMxYvpvH2oMes04j_VgbtTycoJgzY7rUo71lffGJ1dYUqQSbzmCp0anm97AwtFb8lXsDxL14JFIW3zQfBfOhWO6Pl2oK2GKDogEfiw/s1600-h/100_0636.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5286685085903441442" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2WKuCicpJNvJwvTRxCEsB_03ibraQDYBMZhQ4HMMxYvpvH2oMes04j_VgbtTycoJgzY7rUo71lffGJ1dYUqQSbzmCp0anm97AwtFb8lXsDxL14JFIW3zQfBfOhWO6Pl2oK2GKDogEfiw/s400/100_0636.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />New Years eve munch ! more and more meattttttt !!<br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD8v3rVm_M9_MmxM0NfuychQ03kvO_RmCcuLCD0BE2yNhrKP9Qt-fTncdUa8DWm_xgWEFwliFKQiymCoDEec8uBpg6hXfQ6AyLRAARli6ZTufZ7cGSg17XseMODqAZx4nuzRtMsxP7rzA/s1600-h/100_0637.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5286684787474451698" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD8v3rVm_M9_MmxM0NfuychQ03kvO_RmCcuLCD0BE2yNhrKP9Qt-fTncdUa8DWm_xgWEFwliFKQiymCoDEec8uBpg6hXfQ6AyLRAARli6ZTufZ7cGSg17XseMODqAZx4nuzRtMsxP7rzA/s400/100_0637.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />New years eve celebrations. Quiet and funny. welcome 2009<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9a3tqWPxbOdC6uvF85J5ebdEtxxmMCd57AEdGT0IYPw4N4Y40UZOLwYMOjjyNEfTjBXiBikFf1cmxJA1srNlyI_uOxwI_pv_PuCIDtz_XkOZm14vqQlUptu49Id8aXJelN_Ek6XtAxOA/s1600-h/100_0639.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5286684547208009730" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9a3tqWPxbOdC6uvF85J5ebdEtxxmMCd57AEdGT0IYPw4N4Y40UZOLwYMOjjyNEfTjBXiBikFf1cmxJA1srNlyI_uOxwI_pv_PuCIDtz_XkOZm14vqQlUptu49Id8aXJelN_Ek6XtAxOA/s400/100_0639.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />A glimpse at the River Plate stadium. Buenos Aires<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLN5uc0RpFQHtCu2L1iUHl_mrgn8fP8HZzkQtss-_CVZGpQZjQj3NM12OQa6fX2hYcCkRIpO-Ur7qCgMwaDcA29UwkWbfJ9awSjyI6n_qzKmZ7hZlJ1D6dfO2jc7oADk8fo-6p5gIohjk/s1600-h/100_0638.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5286684318213204610" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLN5uc0RpFQHtCu2L1iUHl_mrgn8fP8HZzkQtss-_CVZGpQZjQj3NM12OQa6fX2hYcCkRIpO-Ur7qCgMwaDcA29UwkWbfJ9awSjyI6n_qzKmZ7hZlJ1D6dfO2jc7oADk8fo-6p5gIohjk/s400/100_0638.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />The russian NART TIME rally raid team. look out for them in the rally. number 356. racers : K . Zhiltsov and Y . Solouyev. friendly blokes who gave us time in a petrol stop.<br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBzN0XIZ_S9Fu_7327dGG4i84z87w-P2AopFyckr8WQER8bAUj6msVXHAemean0q9pnz0s2o_ccaQkDMifrC1uuhCM-6Hgbvyki6Q-JT2yfWJRfY0OhTPsqcqH168xnq0Se3BmtZJyAwM/s1600-h/100_0645.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5286684071403103906" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBzN0XIZ_S9Fu_7327dGG4i84z87w-P2AopFyckr8WQER8bAUj6msVXHAemean0q9pnz0s2o_ccaQkDMifrC1uuhCM-6Hgbvyki6Q-JT2yfWJRfY0OhTPsqcqH168xnq0Se3BmtZJyAwM/s400/100_0645.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Its an american designed engine that screams like a banshee exiting the fires of hell !<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhQ3g7RHs3WBC2E4rB2mYijgWOqn02PCWfUzLvLYcuQ_ruz8UkAUadUl2YCLHZhWAz4bj_fHmemQJ1J6iX1F7NF5ntEecEcfRYET4S806zdbpC_f-hygiPVeHY4KMJjkvVpo6Px009Ogo/s1600-h/100_0643.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5286683858345008642" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhQ3g7RHs3WBC2E4rB2mYijgWOqn02PCWfUzLvLYcuQ_ruz8UkAUadUl2YCLHZhWAz4bj_fHmemQJ1J6iX1F7NF5ntEecEcfRYET4S806zdbpC_f-hygiPVeHY4KMJjkvVpo6Px009Ogo/s400/100_0643.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />buttons, leavers and more buttons. how do you decide what button to press at 150 miles an hour in deep sand and altitude ? for hours on end<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-FB3WooOz13F0oitRXV7UTSk1XGbDjcI3NlOlcF8omDzTueVkJZHNmkXQiowhyx38HcCz1hG8evw_Jt40vaLc2K5t0mrMoIA6lQ1BXzd4o4GucH1YRktbQeqxlyugAcQP8dydC2hO0kg/s1600-h/100_0642.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5286683585623670850" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-FB3WooOz13F0oitRXV7UTSk1XGbDjcI3NlOlcF8omDzTueVkJZHNmkXQiowhyx38HcCz1hG8evw_Jt40vaLc2K5t0mrMoIA6lQ1BXzd4o4GucH1YRktbQeqxlyugAcQP8dydC2hO0kg/s400/100_0642.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr !!!!<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib1x-uC_8jdFuE6L5gEoT8mvueefYBOdySn0zIKSZkzq3C5tfQToJ8zNldBb4pZ9aGEpi8wrErItnE1XeoxGhqIRtqtJjRdSsNs76XZ1_LeGutH3UAcGBwE0MkGBziabqSK30u7_7cHM4/s1600-h/100_0647.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5286682209013350882" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib1x-uC_8jdFuE6L5gEoT8mvueefYBOdySn0zIKSZkzq3C5tfQToJ8zNldBb4pZ9aGEpi8wrErItnE1XeoxGhqIRtqtJjRdSsNs76XZ1_LeGutH3UAcGBwE0MkGBziabqSK30u7_7cHM4/s400/100_0647.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Senor Zhiltsov. driver of the NART TIME. squeezing time in his busy schedule to chat about the fragile x pedition. good luck chaps !<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiom68MGX711x2wIBXMqgrTgdt0ymxdAJuNDahyphenhyphenHOw611qJFZzjEaSmuTJVH84Cl78ib_JPwVGHIHlZGT0G7Sz2-CXHyIFFKySncXtdcBFhA3U6YeBa2bhtzRixsh1Qnop_qLNajpQiLZw/s1600-h/100_0651.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5286681981363049602" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiom68MGX711x2wIBXMqgrTgdt0ymxdAJuNDahyphenhyphenHOw611qJFZzjEaSmuTJVH84Cl78ib_JPwVGHIHlZGT0G7Sz2-CXHyIFFKySncXtdcBFhA3U6YeBa2bhtzRixsh1Qnop_qLNajpQiLZw/s400/100_0651.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />The Dakar bikes. ready to roll . all tuned and built for some real brutality. "they aint riding those bolivian roads i did though !" to scared i recon !<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9ts6nGOpEu4FrJ03yvDhKK83B1w-tN_sFaSczAp_sqi7-WMOhIvDqjEYv73T79HWsTah8lYYYIB4IxGo43zRzHgy35WHuTTvfnoVaSiNdZ1OQ1nZdR8xNQL2LbSzn-7AFA-3kdsCJaAY/s1600-h/100_0648.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5286681972753371570" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9ts6nGOpEu4FrJ03yvDhKK83B1w-tN_sFaSczAp_sqi7-WMOhIvDqjEYv73T79HWsTah8lYYYIB4IxGo43zRzHgy35WHuTTvfnoVaSiNdZ1OQ1nZdR8xNQL2LbSzn-7AFA-3kdsCJaAY/s400/100_0648.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Dakar 2009. Argentina - Chile<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilNC-8KSWRrVs26adfqtfuYU3KjA6Eq77G8UQ7-tvYjPW1cH-JKSS6fOGGKErFjGDC5ISXDNtXEpy9kOkK55AV3frvDPBc-it9QarnW-iMI202xtR7KewhR2wd2FfpB29avKBm9q3e0zU/s1600-h/100_0650.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5286680841007279234" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilNC-8KSWRrVs26adfqtfuYU3KjA6Eq77G8UQ7-tvYjPW1cH-JKSS6fOGGKErFjGDC5ISXDNtXEpy9kOkK55AV3frvDPBc-it9QarnW-iMI202xtR7KewhR2wd2FfpB29avKBm9q3e0zU/s400/100_0650.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />What i would do for an hour on this beast<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkKJJdTLcWJcl1gcBbtfBiNGMbfB3jLfXe86qHf6n4WRJX1Mr3VWkUEEul-CO4Vk-uDsVgxJswr8RkPacPkbSgeMpJc2BFCO0YZX0fCvw2Mb-NUo6Za5eg-fEeAzF_ry1rjIrfdwl71b4/s1600-h/100_0653.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5286680845815449458" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkKJJdTLcWJcl1gcBbtfBiNGMbfB3jLfXe86qHf6n4WRJX1Mr3VWkUEEul-CO4Vk-uDsVgxJswr8RkPacPkbSgeMpJc2BFCO0YZX0fCvw2Mb-NUo6Za5eg-fEeAzF_ry1rjIrfdwl71b4/s400/100_0653.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggpRwFgHM6G6_O-f7LZyAWOqq5knMaoS95BFk_z7inOEg6L0ootGzplbNSG06j3JK93s9rhpoWfL8dE1PSpUXDWiO_u-WdVYYrPE6VTuKGe-sUG5iSsdUMeE6H-aM2qSyzGVxj8K1kWIA/s1600-h/100_0664.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5286680053025091922" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggpRwFgHM6G6_O-f7LZyAWOqq5knMaoS95BFk_z7inOEg6L0ootGzplbNSG06j3JK93s9rhpoWfL8dE1PSpUXDWiO_u-WdVYYrPE6VTuKGe-sUG5iSsdUMeE6H-aM2qSyzGVxj8K1kWIA/s400/100_0664.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />The KTM riders in conference.<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKEeF8aLmkHgrtRlQvMhYItgCjesUwgYtOW964-tvMtcsqJsB11JRbXvgi24cnRV-jSc39r7PvfyYYunk5mZiGQf2_O6uzeJ4RsBSX9Ylsc4A5ulG2sOBkSIiWA4oH4u1rWCTsoRlAg14/s1600-h/100_0667.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5286679636396815906" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKEeF8aLmkHgrtRlQvMhYItgCjesUwgYtOW964-tvMtcsqJsB11JRbXvgi24cnRV-jSc39r7PvfyYYunk5mZiGQf2_O6uzeJ4RsBSX9Ylsc4A5ulG2sOBkSIiWA4oH4u1rWCTsoRlAg14/s400/100_0667.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Mike can be scene here pushing his luck. he managed to get the KTM team to not only take the needed oil sensor off one of their show bikes, they are fitting it for him also.</div><div></div><div>BIG THANKS TO : Raul Becker at Becker motos, Tucuman, Argentina </div><div>David Edgardo Paredes at Paredes motos, Cordoba, Argentina</div><div>Jose L.Saul at Gaf motos, Villa Maria, Argentina</div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3949021732548206585.post-86769759066305682302008-12-26T23:48:00.007+00:002008-12-27T17:03:15.267+00:00Argentina - the final country<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEkTuQlf-44EIEGAhfcsj7FwoRaexu5rgFzS8VHLjo9twAtKnUp0FGGHtkru7DM5FPVY_N6yFHwQ8uhQkZDBQc3PHQHJJIOn8K4-SWacRtax8ynYiaJLwQrOTjqOKR840A9E_W8AL-RpE/s1600-h/100_0584.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5284254472707836306" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEkTuQlf-44EIEGAhfcsj7FwoRaexu5rgFzS8VHLjo9twAtKnUp0FGGHtkru7DM5FPVY_N6yFHwQ8uhQkZDBQc3PHQHJJIOn8K4-SWacRtax8ynYiaJLwQrOTjqOKR840A9E_W8AL-RpE/s400/100_0584.JPG" border="0" /></a> A few days waiting on an ATM machine to be fed in san pedro de atacama, which didnt happen, then out. back up the hills past the bolvian border again but onto Argentina. It felt strange to know this was the last country i am visiting. Not feelings of sadness though. Basically im suprised i even made it passed canada. Its not the last time i cross a border thouh. down south i have to cross into chile a couple of times, to see the wonders that are down there. Patagonia is split between Argentina and chile. Knowing xmas was just around the corner i wanted to try and get to a large town to try and celebrate in somesort of way that seemed to be what i know. i imagined maybe catching the blues , without being in the company of family and friends. Didnt get the blues at all. its full on summer down here and i had no sense of xmas what so ever. Anyway. i crossed the border straight away riding into a greener landscape and higher octane fuel. After seeing yellow and orange landscapes for ages, it was lovely to see green again. Purmamarca was the town night caught us. A high pass with strong cross winds brought us into this gorgeous town. winding roads splattered across the mountains. hairpins that completely double back and more.<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK1XOz9_MBL-zYDze5laK_yBNWcTZhm8kg9RtGc-pjGKdJjfnlLPMsDQB2b5EGSM1zN_FxbopzoFho2Tg0qADV9a2q__qiOzjO0pHyTh_gXXzuS1oU2RlouelSwSQI0_YPk-YR8yMXpMc/s1600-h/100_0586.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5284253993383887810" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK1XOz9_MBL-zYDze5laK_yBNWcTZhm8kg9RtGc-pjGKdJjfnlLPMsDQB2b5EGSM1zN_FxbopzoFho2Tg0qADV9a2q__qiOzjO0pHyTh_gXXzuS1oU2RlouelSwSQI0_YPk-YR8yMXpMc/s400/100_0586.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4AXpnE57CmHCtBmkVycxnY6eBWUTGiog_WSy3VbPBguoJ2osYD9BOIiE0dyF8bMe7K87vnTbixauO8fIyQgAHOtdq5uPiu1Bvr_VNI2LjroWVbpPvD__hzlSP6K983YVC_ETV2I6XKEc/s1600-h/100_0588.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5284253985439847330" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 300px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 400px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4AXpnE57CmHCtBmkVycxnY6eBWUTGiog_WSy3VbPBguoJ2osYD9BOIiE0dyF8bMe7K87vnTbixauO8fIyQgAHOtdq5uPiu1Bvr_VNI2LjroWVbpPvD__hzlSP6K983YVC_ETV2I6XKEc/s400/100_0588.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />purmamarca is very layed back. boca juniors, argentinas man utd, are fighting for the championship. all wear their shirt. just like man utd in the UK. the town isnt layed back for 90 minutes. <br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpxmYPESdwAMFelVj3Na2NXcpZ4i55voYXu7DCdraigS6GoFfRaQq45iUXbkazkeX8_jl38ycxz3hPZd72i_NKboSNk_6YFoEYHZG63n0pRuzQPnmH2rHjyYgyVL79J7-OlhWBrq7zT4I/s1600-h/100_0591.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5284253975032288146" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpxmYPESdwAMFelVj3Na2NXcpZ4i55voYXu7DCdraigS6GoFfRaQq45iUXbkazkeX8_jl38ycxz3hPZd72i_NKboSNk_6YFoEYHZG63n0pRuzQPnmH2rHjyYgyVL79J7-OlhWBrq7zT4I/s400/100_0591.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />the surrounding hills and mountains are all filled with extreme coloured sand. the whole place changes as the sun moves over the sky.<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguuNng7aWInCcyn9LwOFivseilJQeMhKz7vYfhNz7WA6ULhLkGq4jFSaKPeFTsUgOj7Y1U0XbMCJ8Ps0Xi-vVt6nSMwmhVVtRrI85ioBinN8X_HaUbaycXPvKMlpdCAKBPm5SQe36msE8/s1600-h/100_0595.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5284253973292396898" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguuNng7aWInCcyn9LwOFivseilJQeMhKz7vYfhNz7WA6ULhLkGq4jFSaKPeFTsUgOj7Y1U0XbMCJ8Ps0Xi-vVt6nSMwmhVVtRrI85ioBinN8X_HaUbaycXPvKMlpdCAKBPm5SQe36msE8/s400/100_0595.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />incredible riding here. <br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihtAizkuw0Xmo9YUiGZ3i3vO6-AfXI2DTGop3VgdH4nOuq6hUqyK-Y9r0G-dt8Efzt8_wx9GFyOS1-y1aZxjqKrJ_Ox9Sm1SbN9SSNDGE_uyVT_8GXq_xlQ6215g4HNnP1ZPRDuKWYgHw/s1600-h/100_0613.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5284252236229643826" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihtAizkuw0Xmo9YUiGZ3i3vO6-AfXI2DTGop3VgdH4nOuq6hUqyK-Y9r0G-dt8Efzt8_wx9GFyOS1-y1aZxjqKrJ_Ox9Sm1SbN9SSNDGE_uyVT_8GXq_xlQ6215g4HNnP1ZPRDuKWYgHw/s400/100_0613.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />heading south now to salta. salta is a large town. 3 nights and some sorting stuff out and we are off. i look at the map, it seems like i havent got anywhere. argentina is humunguss. everywhere is layed back. salta was packed with people, but everything is slowed down. even a day before xmas, the pace is calm. cafayatte turns up. a beautiful wine producing village. vineyards roll around on the surrounding hill sides. small trees line the avenues. the plaza is empty , except for the locals siestas in the cafes. this is my xmas town for 2 days, spent in a hostel with 4 germans, mike and dan and dans huge steak dinners. a top munch.<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik3ntzGhO9mTGsQa6whp7qX657DEXJqkGHLZ3z9NluHpH3_wihZMuCujWuf45AhkQ6YPYkbWpdTLVvR6hhUZkBkfsJBKN6gkocpAcdW6QKop3iH6A9p4Nhn7ziEBVRmCJv8M_8r_iPTp8/s1600-h/100_0606.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5284252259194683170" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik3ntzGhO9mTGsQa6whp7qX657DEXJqkGHLZ3z9NluHpH3_wihZMuCujWuf45AhkQ6YPYkbWpdTLVvR6hhUZkBkfsJBKN6gkocpAcdW6QKop3iH6A9p4Nhn7ziEBVRmCJv8M_8r_iPTp8/s400/100_0606.JPG" border="0" /></a> boxing day riding out of cafayatte, the bikes starts spluttering down. im not at altitude now so im concerned. keep the revs down and all seems alright. the starter button doesnt work constantly. somethings not right all over with the bike. mikes ktm is gaining problems by the day now also. tucuman is the town with a ktm dealer. im here now. both bikes are being taken care of by an ex argentine enduro champion. raul becker. now a mechanic. spent today overseeing and getting in the way in his work shop. the bikes will be sparkling reliable tomorrow im sure. towards buenos aires. who knows how many days . argentina is huge. style is everywhere.<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgELCy4Em33t6AAfUB34BoUsMJEVLpjjTk4xBI3qWcICzq-EPdJ9dii6SWlvyw3D8lRtXFmVPykKxx7hMnzYb1jZc3KzlmgaIbD3BFJNW6ZIkENbBOd3axgIyA359_ZdN8B1IboZ9EY7QQ/s1600-h/100_0608.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5284252243281109762" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 300px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 400px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgELCy4Em33t6AAfUB34BoUsMJEVLpjjTk4xBI3qWcICzq-EPdJ9dii6SWlvyw3D8lRtXFmVPykKxx7hMnzYb1jZc3KzlmgaIbD3BFJNW6ZIkENbBOd3axgIyA359_ZdN8B1IboZ9EY7QQ/s400/100_0608.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpuF_tI2HbAi88E9n8CLb7kEbABTdfuOPoq-JNpy7yvI0Auk2N9gSKi5mFudwY-7EH69qcN3OjSC24pAyBzocQfnfXXEiKXG7rcpvl4E5HB21Ic7NVhscecxBbwatYu7koXC2KImbQ-MA/s1600-h/100_0616.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5284252230960835682" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpuF_tI2HbAi88E9n8CLb7kEbABTdfuOPoq-JNpy7yvI0Auk2N9gSKi5mFudwY-7EH69qcN3OjSC24pAyBzocQfnfXXEiKXG7rcpvl4E5HB21Ic7NVhscecxBbwatYu7koXC2KImbQ-MA/s400/100_0616.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig3SHYaGTWuAIIgv0pd3M9wpKNZbHV1TPeZ8LSrAe1q2rHG0DbBNE3eNIGbPI9UeFavmYqlLwvqLhzNnIsenRqFaLlcXclj_OaVM_pOO2W6FAdjjigr8xlnvgENy5XHsoEtdFieU8V0hk/s1600-h/100_0619.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5284252225265703666" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig3SHYaGTWuAIIgv0pd3M9wpKNZbHV1TPeZ8LSrAe1q2rHG0DbBNE3eNIGbPI9UeFavmYqlLwvqLhzNnIsenRqFaLlcXclj_OaVM_pOO2W6FAdjjigr8xlnvgENy5XHsoEtdFieU8V0hk/s400/100_0619.JPG" border="0" /></a> </div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3949021732548206585.post-40662091916468922912008-12-18T22:24:00.030+00:002008-12-20T01:18:40.069+00:00Bolivia - An unearthly playground - an encounter with a Devil<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiesnxp93HZitFs4aQ9EC6jEd95h7S8bj3vRpvTm7zubEhRimcrug0XD2ejM4SNTVIg5SjE94LAppt50Mvdn4eJXbSo6hB5rqPHbpcjpnDf4REpk8xs73H4TwpyrDZJvUzQgsTMsoFbQLc/s1600-h/dans+perfect+pic.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281316798988323538" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 289px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiesnxp93HZitFs4aQ9EC6jEd95h7S8bj3vRpvTm7zubEhRimcrug0XD2ejM4SNTVIg5SjE94LAppt50Mvdn4eJXbSo6hB5rqPHbpcjpnDf4REpk8xs73H4TwpyrDZJvUzQgsTMsoFbQLc/s400/dans+perfect+pic.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ397aVwJLAYPeDzjtVSn44xIB7EIU38ZTxU84J6lUwk3dUtJ7VhbcrciSVYrtuIHrSAyPqKmo9Xp9b6O4MRZGAJNgihz_Vz5dvj4booCo-FqRbDLlUtd4qLuZTiyyDnPzixf6SQgxSZU/s1600-h/P1013063.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281279270500124498" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ397aVwJLAYPeDzjtVSn44xIB7EIU38ZTxU84J6lUwk3dUtJ7VhbcrciSVYrtuIHrSAyPqKmo9Xp9b6O4MRZGAJNgihz_Vz5dvj4booCo-FqRbDLlUtd4qLuZTiyyDnPzixf6SQgxSZU/s400/P1013063.JPG" border="0" /></a> Some days the towns just seem to roll into the same town. The suprise sometimes isnt there. Potosi, Bolivia wiped that slate clean. Dan, mike and myself rolled into the town after dark, after face stinging hail had rained down on us as we climbed to just over 4000 metres again to reach potosi. We had past vast plains where the horizon held small , what looked liked floating islands, with rounded bases. Bolivia offers illusions constantly, especialy after hours in the seat transfixing on vanishing points. This was the day i had my first argument with the bike. The black hail clouds were gaining on me in my rear view mirror. i was getting anxious and cold. the usual engine choke came with the altitude , which slowed me down , letting those clouds catch up. at 4000rpm, the bike was spluttering violently, more than usual. long straight roads came . i felt like i was riding backwards, rocking, as the engine splutters chucked me forwards, back. That was it ! after 3 hours of this i jumped off and used very harsh language, with my knees bent and my face an inch from the carburator. All seemed rational and fair enough at the time. with the flat of my foot i hoofed the bikes tank 3 times. mike turns round and comes back to see why this idiot is loosing his voice with his head up an engine. I calm down after he laughs at me and says " just ring its neck". that works i keep the throttle wide open. the road starts to twist, slowing me down , not needing to go over 4000rpm. the ride becomes pleasant as the hail comes and goes. Potosi is a scene from pirates of the caribbean. rich in pastels, iron works and colonial masterpieces. i love it and want a house just like their houses here..... potosi is on the map because of Cerro Rico. The rich mountain. as day comes you see this mound overlooking the town. Its a shell of of mountain now. they have scraped its sides thin and dug catacoombs through its belly. silver from this sad spectacle has kept the world, especialy europe rich for nearly 500 years. They say an Incan found the place. he then mentioned it to the spanish around 1545. they walked over mile after mile to eventually see this gleaming , sparkling mountain, shimmerimg silver in the sunlight. So since then, the plundering hasnt stopped. In spanish there is still a saying, valer un potosí, "to be worth a potosí" (that is, "a fortune"). Today the mines are still open. i had to go see. This was the most moved i have ever been at the life of others . i didnt really know what to expect. maybe a cart would take us around the inner tracks, all being safe. maybe the workers would all be smiling and enjoying there passtime. Maybe mining is all advanced and machines do all the work as the boys oversee and chat. Myself and the tour group are all laughing at our ridiculous outfits we have to wear. The smiles drop as we enter. no cart to guide us. a man named jaime is our guide. we crawl and walk , crawl and walk . i bang my head loads. one of the girls on the tour is struggling. we chomp on coca leaves. it helps. . . this place is brutal. it is hell on earth for these workers. they dont live long. everything toxic is down there at 40 degrees celcius. holes a cat would struggle to get through are their doorways. The young, middle teens do all the hard labour like pushing the rock filled carts up and down tiny tunnels for 15 hours a day. the older you get the lighter the labour. i get thrown into pushing a cart, with a worker. i push for 2 minutes not uphill or down, but level surface. With the altitude stilll giving me short breath anyway and the pushing i collapse . impossible. They say zinc is mostly found now here, silver is scarse. Profits from zinc have now colapsed. these boys spend there life in this gateway to hell, finding small amounts of something thats not worth anything. They greet us respecfully. we give them coca leaves and coca cola. I leave there in silence, until jaime , our guide lights a stick of dynomite. runs down the hill side like a chubby charlie chaplin and disapears in a sonic boom and burst of smoke.<br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7QeNoIIXmeR_WiT6hbU63skhBape2FqmYKt7PhCLnU5Oq7nlMbwmEPva-cVbhqINhzuj-eI26nXhoWXyRbtfA77r7nDjcOXKFPaHYXTWs-urs77vgIS630oI2NaNe9IYHLiQi6SiHopI/s1600-h/100_0258.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281278864890701026" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 300px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 400px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7QeNoIIXmeR_WiT6hbU63skhBape2FqmYKt7PhCLnU5Oq7nlMbwmEPva-cVbhqINhzuj-eI26nXhoWXyRbtfA77r7nDjcOXKFPaHYXTWs-urs77vgIS630oI2NaNe9IYHLiQi6SiHopI/s400/100_0258.JPG" border="0" /></a> entering the mine. about 5 feet high.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsEGiEtya20RW-yPYBWtR_qUnbzEGMoeNx-Vx_Rfh0fQXk0WWn5_liefsxzduzQtUmzDDJOVbN60c7arLg4yD_jZkVyPuE_5yedSvTK-N6HdY6HyyOrhqyUuukxe9ZS0zSIvjRy9K-5qs/s1600-h/100_0265.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281278855727838338" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsEGiEtya20RW-yPYBWtR_qUnbzEGMoeNx-Vx_Rfh0fQXk0WWn5_liefsxzduzQtUmzDDJOVbN60c7arLg4yD_jZkVyPuE_5yedSvTK-N6HdY6HyyOrhqyUuukxe9ZS0zSIvjRy9K-5qs/s400/100_0265.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />crawling into somewhere else in the mine. i had to tell myself its ok, when the sensation of confined space and heat kicked in.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIYbbEGJxrKj45eHbEeBVJAwB6uTf9rAYTc7ulDoSpYXq3x-ACBAjKUgivQo5t4zeEEvV_Qq61DvNLXNswqWFkmPkqXx_wbGWxvsxzOSqH4hZ_od1EEKgRn_zVWK73m_7lO6JxHMdFEm0/s1600-h/100_0267.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281278853255261634" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 300px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 400px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIYbbEGJxrKj45eHbEeBVJAwB6uTf9rAYTc7ulDoSpYXq3x-ACBAjKUgivQo5t4zeEEvV_Qq61DvNLXNswqWFkmPkqXx_wbGWxvsxzOSqH4hZ_od1EEKgRn_zVWK73m_7lO6JxHMdFEm0/s400/100_0267.JPG" border="0" /></a> meet the devil. The miners feed him coca leaves , booze and smokes to please him so he keeps them safe.<br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKBwm5Qi31tS1ZaMxiR_3FNIhauK-qLzdHQ7Yw0svLZHn0eRKehqioSvXmZWFDt1tRUsEvvnhGbVxA_q6E0f5VMFh2m6F6_4QvKy20qtHr8PENpN45FqjzxWF-sy-jc7JPCxoShPx8eSE/s1600-h/100_0273.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281278841993197202" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKBwm5Qi31tS1ZaMxiR_3FNIhauK-qLzdHQ7Yw0svLZHn0eRKehqioSvXmZWFDt1tRUsEvvnhGbVxA_q6E0f5VMFh2m6F6_4QvKy20qtHr8PENpN45FqjzxWF-sy-jc7JPCxoShPx8eSE/s400/100_0273.JPG" border="0" /></a> we feed him leaves and smokes to keep us safe.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUuyQ_SxHNqApPfJF_osn0lwz_WJOW6FXDYLrRXaNvZyBsS1jaQnMCxUAJzfkp96f36mkuWKZ7N0UuuHOO8cWBEnyGqwqZV72iOlnznxJVXQqBlklCg-yN6HATuL5R15ISW9zRI9l6g9E/s1600-h/100_0278.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281278833529387330" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 300px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 400px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUuyQ_SxHNqApPfJF_osn0lwz_WJOW6FXDYLrRXaNvZyBsS1jaQnMCxUAJzfkp96f36mkuWKZ7N0UuuHOO8cWBEnyGqwqZV72iOlnznxJVXQqBlklCg-yN6HATuL5R15ISW9zRI9l6g9E/s400/100_0278.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />this grafter entered the mine at 3 in the morning. it was noon when we met him. he is tapping away , creating holes for the dynomite. no electric tools for him. this area was very very tight and confined in the heart of the hill. all sides of this place lay at strange angles. He had smiles and jokes for us. when his face turned from us i saw it drop. this place got to me. i hope from my heart he finds whats needed to get him out of there.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVJmEdcwd6StB8w6mcxKJPhW5m5VGtdxPXDy22Nq1csFbVUW2vmjefjons4zGDrXKo78PGXhL0qro1lJIOHac7Oh437aY925d_ruHgDC_YE6t2Og0id_TAo0OqwCkFmqYi6VpTCCLPBiM/s1600-h/100_0279.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281277837947829442" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVJmEdcwd6StB8w6mcxKJPhW5m5VGtdxPXDy22Nq1csFbVUW2vmjefjons4zGDrXKo78PGXhL0qro1lJIOHac7Oh437aY925d_ruHgDC_YE6t2Og0id_TAo0OqwCkFmqYi6VpTCCLPBiM/s400/100_0279.JPG" border="0" /></a>more uncomplaining grafting.<br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxkTcSSc8hLy6xbGGHH7jO4mKHUdqFDNwutuCRwcAmZMzVqvgfk5o6YIGIk-KuJFkVO-So5Rm-qmviyRbIJudNi9MzOgZxMo5_nI4FDF2tUNS7Mpj1qnJNjwUIiYxQO3JMnYF8C3QNV2g/s1600-h/100_0280.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281277836226817570" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxkTcSSc8hLy6xbGGHH7jO4mKHUdqFDNwutuCRwcAmZMzVqvgfk5o6YIGIk-KuJFkVO-So5Rm-qmviyRbIJudNi9MzOgZxMo5_nI4FDF2tUNS7Mpj1qnJNjwUIiYxQO3JMnYF8C3QNV2g/s400/100_0280.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />all the particles get in your body after 10 minutes here.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRXkWi6AGQ97_hpOO-tjjMNcAjOiGi06vi42ACIFXiLIlATaKA9tu4WfjI7Q6eN-p1B2UNuEx1Ctsy82fQkY1ay9gQidDXbdKqYvcRB2UZL1yb7NQx_QGqyG6DtHncLr26WBYDv_8yY2M/s1600-h/100_0284.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281277824456175938" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRXkWi6AGQ97_hpOO-tjjMNcAjOiGi06vi42ACIFXiLIlATaKA9tu4WfjI7Q6eN-p1B2UNuEx1Ctsy82fQkY1ay9gQidDXbdKqYvcRB2UZL1yb7NQx_QGqyG6DtHncLr26WBYDv_8yY2M/s400/100_0284.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />jaime and the dynomite. a very loud boom. the valley echo for ages and the shake stops after a while. Jaime is around 50 years old i guess. he worked the mines for years then became a guide. hes a lucky one. he is very passionate about the boys welfare in the mine. we spoke of the uk mines and mrs thatcher.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDlYqhKmmIe3iOUfXILYRMKDAE8kG5HEoMjqeJgbO_ktURtzfK0h6gcg4-qra5nx8DFPDT83r8klSOiw9wRyM60CmXi6nFNw7i9zIwF2NAxVtzzfrkizF-eX817VUWX4Aj_7-FL-qzPk4/s1600-h/100_0296.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281277820313173266" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDlYqhKmmIe3iOUfXILYRMKDAE8kG5HEoMjqeJgbO_ktURtzfK0h6gcg4-qra5nx8DFPDT83r8klSOiw9wRyM60CmXi6nFNw7i9zIwF2NAxVtzzfrkizF-eX817VUWX4Aj_7-FL-qzPk4/s400/100_0296.JPG" border="0" /></a> 2 nights in potosi we leave. its slashing down. the roads turn to my dreaded mud slide. As we ride out following a locals directions , up the hill. A bike with hard panniers turns up. 2 germans, a couple. martina and didi from bavaria. martina has been on the road 7 years, with her Suzuki DR650. Didi is her boyfriend visiting from germany for 2 months. They are heading to Uyuni in southernish Bolivia also. We chat and realise we are heading wrong. we turn and slide down the hill side together. the road to uyuni is gravel. bolivia only has 25 percent paved roads. its a great days ride. we decend into sunshine. the road isnt that hard for limited off road experience. a few shocks as the sand tries to bite. we stop after a small time. this yellow truck pulls up. 2 more germans driving around this magical continent. they have to be in there 6ts this couple in the van. Uyuni gets close as the day disapears. famous for the salar de uyuni. the largest salt desert on earth. 25 times bigger than bonneville. famous for more illusions. famous for loosing people and messing up motorcycles. martina has ridden it before. the town of uyuni is there on a vast plateau . a dusty yellow town of wide sand streets . hostels everywhere. 4 x 4 tours of the salt tiendas everywhere. 2 nights here, and a day checking the salar is ok to ride. rumours have been flying around that the the salt has 10 inchs of water covering it. not a good idea to ride it then. turns out to be rubbish. there is a few puddles on the outer rimm, but inside its fine. infact its the best surface i have ridden on since the states. the plan is to head west on the salt, then at the middle head south . there are so many tour cars racing this expanse of white that they leave vague tracks to follow. its not as hard as i had belivied. there are mountains around the edges so there is always a land mark to sort of recognise where ya are. the sensation of not moving but the landscape moving under me keeps shocking me into slowing right down. we get lost. wheres the middle ? the sun helps. its falling westwards. we find one of the bizzare islands that are scattered around this desert of white. An hour before, just a tiny blob on a shimmering horizon. large cactus fill these dark dusty islands. we camp. it gets below freezing at night. the moon is the closest it has been to earth in a long time. the night is silver under the moon. even the tent is lit up inside all night. we munch on tuna spaghetti. martina names our island isle de atun. next day we find our way. the salar is hard to ride off, as we have been spoiled with the flat unpotholed surface. straight into deep sand and loose gravel. This the route that most motorcyclist dread apparently. i have been hearing this way to the chilean frontier is unpassable by bike. i was always told not to take it. we took it. they were right. the next 5 days were the hardest riding and tolorence of weather, camping, low food and water, that i have ever known. the road went upto close of 5000 metres. the first day we didnt see even one car. sometimes an adobe house would appear. 2 people would come out looking suprised and direct us to the next sand pit rock filled landscape they call a road. these are not roads. they are the mountains. some vague tracks are sometimes there, just like the salar , but the majority of the way was sand fields, deep. impossible to get any speed up. the sand takes the font wheel sliding either left or right, never in the direction you need. like skating on one foot as a bigginer. corrugated, washboard tracks go on relentlessly for hours. if you dont know what thats like, go find some road works, ask the cango drill worker to lend you his drill for 6 hours. place the drill in a dustbin thats set in stone. sit on the drill and turn it on. dont fall off and get someone to vary the speed on the drill. lashing cross winds, pushing you off line into deeper stuff. i crashed 6 times in 5 days. dan 7, mike 4. martina and didi amazingly didnt drop once. 2 up on a loaded dr. i am still going on at them about how they didnt go gumbs down in the dirt. turns out didi is an ex motocross rider. hes ridden over the blooming sahara. his advice kept me a little sane. eyes forward, knees strong on the tank and throttle hard. i cant throttle hard in deep sand, i just fall off. but the beauty of bailing in the sand is that its rare that it hurts. sand just gets everywhere. at nights we would rush to find solace from the wind and stick the tents up. more spaghetti de atun and fried cheese. water getting scarse. a sip every fall off basicaly. for some reason when i loose control of the bike in the sand i do a cat like scarper off the bike. seems like a good idea though coz i havent been trapped under the thing ever. mikes swearing he will never go off road again. i agree, after the last scare. one day bad the next resonable, with some sort of confidence. i used to hate riding large loose rocks. now i dont mind. they are a relief after so much sand. i realised i have to shout "come on siggs" in my lid, throttle the life out of the bike and just smack over anything in my way. it works, i make the brow of the hill. after 2 days it all seems unreal. the constant hardship. i wonder why anyone would find pleasure from this. the pleasure i know now, comes in the evening when all are around the baby camp stove starving, filthy and knackered, laughing and feeling some sort of good inside. well, and relief from surviving. Also, if you dont go this way you dont go to the top of the world and see this incredible place that bolvia is. this place is above the plateau. it is all colours. lime green glowing lakes. pink lakes, how can a lake be bright pink ? those caramel volcanoes are never ending. smokes weeps from hill sides. i realise im riding in the mouth of a huge volcanoe. the sunset is indescribable. there is no sound when the wind drops in the evenings. the silence almost hurts the brain. llamas, vicuna are everywhere. sometimes a 4 x 4 passes with happy travellers snapping photos of us suffering idiots. i cant believe we didnt end up fighting each other at some points. the stress went way up in the clouds. as i have mentioned., bolivia is not of this world. the sun drops at 7, blinding the eyes . you cant see where you are going, you are riding on deep stuff again. edges on either side taking you to an end im sure . the wind is freezing. 10 miles in 4 hours somedays. its only 600kms to the border and somesort of civilisation. 5 days. all wonderful hell and hard work. that was the hardest things i have ever experienced. we land in san pedro de atacama. 2000metres down. the bike has all power back. im sweating in this desert star wars type town. its perfect after all that. layed back. resturants with fires in the middle, ambiance on the stereos, colourfull fabric shops curb the sand streets, where the tourist all smile and feel great. expensive, baking hot . no cash point that feeds a visa card. im trapped here till the cashpoint machine has been fed more pesos. oh well !<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAUQwJsnxTF-OKRvcFkvPnOzzbHODyX972pQvaljcJKHrFvaYhmIEC1JoET-R6D5ODnwkLHf6Yk54SukI5TOOsfKJrMCCXssuygDpce_UXyMF29wHIYddu7s0aA3oygyhcMJv2vYK2_xk/s1600-h/100_0303.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281277817590439858" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAUQwJsnxTF-OKRvcFkvPnOzzbHODyX972pQvaljcJKHrFvaYhmIEC1JoET-R6D5ODnwkLHf6Yk54SukI5TOOsfKJrMCCXssuygDpce_UXyMF29wHIYddu7s0aA3oygyhcMJv2vYK2_xk/s400/100_0303.JPG" border="0" /></a> bolivia altiplano. i watched this old lady carry the load for miles. then look at me then dump it and walk off into the hills.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaK6C6xB2bn5I3SDusQiWBfT1UZU91GdHnRLHH8k5ddXXeOlw3iGixXVx1MIU_eu3BHFv3kVnvZLHy2MLB2fZfT8vAzBb2BCdvzPdRkwH10dSSCIzPXbJmC7BmkVxaP9J-VhRStsJakJM/s1600-h/100_0377.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281276495455605266" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaK6C6xB2bn5I3SDusQiWBfT1UZU91GdHnRLHH8k5ddXXeOlw3iGixXVx1MIU_eu3BHFv3kVnvZLHy2MLB2fZfT8vAzBb2BCdvzPdRkwH10dSSCIzPXbJmC7BmkVxaP9J-VhRStsJakJM/s400/100_0377.JPG" border="0" /></a> train cemetery, uyuni. i love bolivian tourist atractions. there is never a suited man grabbing money for tickets and it all seems so unofficial. the sun dropped through these strong old rusty engines. a magic place.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBtJnP5TTRoDyoRpXetpUilFmoAt3IUHmFQ3swwxdjxp23BjPdTOGr9-grhWuCsSavHKeARRF5HK5SnCf3T2n2ijk5slGlscISF1bjN_fIJ-s_EAIMgpiCO_OQC0wkcENzbCWE4WAbpl8/s1600-h/100_0382.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281276480811184306" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBtJnP5TTRoDyoRpXetpUilFmoAt3IUHmFQ3swwxdjxp23BjPdTOGr9-grhWuCsSavHKeARRF5HK5SnCf3T2n2ijk5slGlscISF1bjN_fIJ-s_EAIMgpiCO_OQC0wkcENzbCWE4WAbpl8/s400/100_0382.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEPggo_bPiAwxT3AouYBmXE0GjM5nyOOIzAbCik7TAuSnz-kusWJErwwRkZ9i7B-9KbAyIS3f9EzQyH644243pmEmTlBNHfQ6N5zjJcRLKrNThUGydykxv92AAynf68nQGGw-guQ4Y0Fw/s1600-h/100_0394.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281276474175792002" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 300px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 400px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEPggo_bPiAwxT3AouYBmXE0GjM5nyOOIzAbCik7TAuSnz-kusWJErwwRkZ9i7B-9KbAyIS3f9EzQyH644243pmEmTlBNHfQ6N5zjJcRLKrNThUGydykxv92AAynf68nQGGw-guQ4Y0Fw/s400/100_0394.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />home for a night on the salar. these islands are soft dirt and cactus. they jump out from horizons after sensations of not going anywhere when i knew i was doing at least 50mph. very strange. </div><div><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7DivKhHmdgFGTUP0xlcceqXwVmSsHXPZf3-ihU-Rbgxh0zvdmWPmOQiOG67CC0wk3NjJ9DmvvC_UBFaPb9fQ3yShIUE4Vrbh03rAGHrz7xUspKF0Hqi2fJc1ghsLx_ImAFyQGj3gCBgk/s1600-h/100_0400.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281276468378874034" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7DivKhHmdgFGTUP0xlcceqXwVmSsHXPZf3-ihU-Rbgxh0zvdmWPmOQiOG67CC0wk3NjJ9DmvvC_UBFaPb9fQ3yShIUE4Vrbh03rAGHrz7xUspKF0Hqi2fJc1ghsLx_ImAFyQGj3gCBgk/s400/100_0400.JPG" border="0" /></a> salar de uyuni<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6SRPJ6ZYdVBcH__vRTw26uSQASv6KgqUCvIVCrauKaXvYkJPu2THlNcqnh9n8jWSnnvXLs8MTkiXNvcf8H5IDNDoybJaOrWH2tV4fjty0HU6tAKx90i6uIB5GSJVttX-VTnZs-JVeeZw/s1600-h/100_0404.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281276460721580098" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 300px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 400px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6SRPJ6ZYdVBcH__vRTw26uSQASv6KgqUCvIVCrauKaXvYkJPu2THlNcqnh9n8jWSnnvXLs8MTkiXNvcf8H5IDNDoybJaOrWH2tV4fjty0HU6tAKx90i6uIB5GSJVttX-VTnZs-JVeeZw/s400/100_0404.JPG" border="0" /></a> tent up on the salar. a chance to wear the new scarf<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmQ19XZ6ddQQ9aWMbdyMl7meO72KCqccE47tutIoHVKGx7bosr1mxQ7dgaTBUdpP3KlffF44lIGabx9wp8iVJndTNZTx3MX41QwZq_AVEckt1FKVXnK_MfBKNhkEnnkyoX8eYCVTTWYK8/s1600-h/100_0410.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281275468603962674" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmQ19XZ6ddQQ9aWMbdyMl7meO72KCqccE47tutIoHVKGx7bosr1mxQ7dgaTBUdpP3KlffF44lIGabx9wp8iVJndTNZTx3MX41QwZq_AVEckt1FKVXnK_MfBKNhkEnnkyoX8eYCVTTWYK8/s400/100_0410.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />riding the salar was incredible. like no other ride before.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo2Mwb0oB95QvZlPHBb7Y0eTmh500O9n1722Kcq0xGv1FEeF4w4dZVNvscjIrJD7ywUo9Z3GPzt6pV7aEtKaHv0rqlNpyhpJlY5W45T_d2i7EIhr5BKDRk7kXwrJZwsVUYCzTXGM3q3XI/s1600-h/100_0417.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281275461630376498" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo2Mwb0oB95QvZlPHBb7Y0eTmh500O9n1722Kcq0xGv1FEeF4w4dZVNvscjIrJD7ywUo9Z3GPzt6pV7aEtKaHv0rqlNpyhpJlY5W45T_d2i7EIhr5BKDRk7kXwrJZwsVUYCzTXGM3q3XI/s400/100_0417.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />this kid turns up as im sweating and breathing like a dying pig after trying to get to grips with deep sand. he just blasted across any terrain on an old 125cc chinese, with his dog that wasnt even strapped to the bike.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGLOL0mBryABCoo3ihiDrbEjgqFqKjyVUOWeJ6tuxzwp-v5bo_8NtA-fKEDB-NVNlvBIF6mjYnkgjoHsepWpmGvwy40hFLK9gtHupUEnShUHQkDKh7ugDUIscOGq1tYROHA9hGis7Ti7E/s1600-h/100_0424.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281275453898806834" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGLOL0mBryABCoo3ihiDrbEjgqFqKjyVUOWeJ6tuxzwp-v5bo_8NtA-fKEDB-NVNlvBIF6mjYnkgjoHsepWpmGvwy40hFLK9gtHupUEnShUHQkDKh7ugDUIscOGq1tYROHA9hGis7Ti7E/s400/100_0424.JPG" border="0" /></a> the deep stuff<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieS5dyRHV43O4M5lKqf8KacqfFTpJ6_RpMlpq226MsUzJ1hDnJUJIRAeNBYkwkKLFWep5uIa9F0cHIWFrLkX-IbJI5d_9nHDYbl5vBkEVIOM3-y8lMbtbN2H8riG8LK-iocBCdZe4Hpds/s1600-h/100_0429.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281275446067516610" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 300px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 400px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieS5dyRHV43O4M5lKqf8KacqfFTpJ6_RpMlpq226MsUzJ1hDnJUJIRAeNBYkwkKLFWep5uIa9F0cHIWFrLkX-IbJI5d_9nHDYbl5vBkEVIOM3-y8lMbtbN2H8riG8LK-iocBCdZe4Hpds/s400/100_0429.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />camping again , where i dont know.<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRJJy1hYaezfyjSJV_1ARDAkXhH50_MhodMtqnTDWqsrt_f1JVjp3XV-173vrR1rgoOOnbnnet1FhXJZ05BSsrOIgEIfHuqBOD-cxINp1ntdjmRfsqOg8EUNVxwgwPiA6Ue9NHbpa8Bh0/s1600-h/100_0438.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281275434957601426" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRJJy1hYaezfyjSJV_1ARDAkXhH50_MhodMtqnTDWqsrt_f1JVjp3XV-173vrR1rgoOOnbnnet1FhXJZ05BSsrOIgEIfHuqBOD-cxINp1ntdjmRfsqOg8EUNVxwgwPiA6Ue9NHbpa8Bh0/s400/100_0438.JPG" border="0" /></a> no people. no cars. nothing<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqyb0IDtedses0dOpifbFNHSEN6oR61L5Sk1IT0WJ2pMPDsK_dAcqUJrNHhTaU0IjRnAX-xeGrALG8ldpb2nuqtT3qdKz6tABa4rhnozMZkCM94HzQg-b6LWo2MJHc2cXStCv1w_OEsJo/s1600-h/100_0479.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281274041157694242" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqyb0IDtedses0dOpifbFNHSEN6oR61L5Sk1IT0WJ2pMPDsK_dAcqUJrNHhTaU0IjRnAX-xeGrALG8ldpb2nuqtT3qdKz6tABa4rhnozMZkCM94HzQg-b6LWo2MJHc2cXStCv1w_OEsJo/s400/100_0479.JPG" border="0" /></a> gumbs down in the sand mike.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinHg2KTBEkO2qap8tO3N77DY011TflanRBYiEJGBfCzT13XULe-HM1fDQEJMRXsJwSpb6rPHfLjr64bWzUgVYU0gpnrBiL6VJXQ_19lad5hUCRE55ySSdXNTEUNhzusGK1nkRma5LWg2k/s1600-h/100_0483.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281274028221048626" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinHg2KTBEkO2qap8tO3N77DY011TflanRBYiEJGBfCzT13XULe-HM1fDQEJMRXsJwSpb6rPHfLjr64bWzUgVYU0gpnrBiL6VJXQ_19lad5hUCRE55ySSdXNTEUNhzusGK1nkRma5LWg2k/s400/100_0483.JPG" border="0" /></a> sand fields . the hardest of all to ride for me<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiikMb9yWLinS9B2EHoQDwH96hyphenhyphen22V4EcPx9y9M52Ppq9svLgXpu-Obx-hnwX2p9J2HR-Ws8Elss5yBBffY0ZilX0RUFlxbMvRlHq2pLpQBMPPnzvox18AynOYZQCtHw5HzpHaaUFBlfUg/s1600-h/100_0492.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281274023709210114" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiikMb9yWLinS9B2EHoQDwH96hyphenhyphen22V4EcPx9y9M52Ppq9svLgXpu-Obx-hnwX2p9J2HR-Ws8Elss5yBBffY0ZilX0RUFlxbMvRlHq2pLpQBMPPnzvox18AynOYZQCtHw5HzpHaaUFBlfUg/s400/100_0492.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />looking for and begging for tarmac and sanity.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLYqCeoDuPu0LeRdb7lgTjuMjG2EEzTRBdhhVs3DAZY1bKUV3PG2g4puPgeoKECQxmp50zrvlOyi90e0KVSmbuI8HGPk7FKKOTinQeL758h0x0LlBFUufrLB_o3_O46qqpne_mRzMXak0/s1600-h/P1012919.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281274018533365010" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLYqCeoDuPu0LeRdb7lgTjuMjG2EEzTRBdhhVs3DAZY1bKUV3PG2g4puPgeoKECQxmp50zrvlOyi90e0KVSmbuI8HGPk7FKKOTinQeL758h0x0LlBFUufrLB_o3_O46qqpne_mRzMXak0/s400/P1012919.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />stumbled onto this tiny deserted village up and away from the world. atmospheric and weird</div><div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcYdBkZqWD68UqeVgIwT-ONahqNKoa8IzJP8c2StMJ1NybHP1gVeqzJFQVqS7iJIQcX5FVBa9eOFXfTlHy0L7I0AInfhN0eQXcs8AFCUpuvO36xXOZbEgA2TRnGi3gD1g4xoFmXFTrEhk/s1600-h/P1012923.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281274017737695426" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcYdBkZqWD68UqeVgIwT-ONahqNKoa8IzJP8c2StMJ1NybHP1gVeqzJFQVqS7iJIQcX5FVBa9eOFXfTlHy0L7I0AInfhN0eQXcs8AFCUpuvO36xXOZbEgA2TRnGi3gD1g4xoFmXFTrEhk/s400/P1012923.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />the edge of the salar<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNo1ssGZzsLfHBLRd5CZLV8ZeUtATdwvfjzWOcHBE7ZboKmFilQM-xrJDfLmO8V6k7dNeEHGukJTn2j7w2G4067npiR_eI_59vqbZ7SL5zaYiZVsTnL33fcimTIkT3BmDhY6lyKtjVWAI/s1600-h/P1012932.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281272592156948946" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNo1ssGZzsLfHBLRd5CZLV8ZeUtATdwvfjzWOcHBE7ZboKmFilQM-xrJDfLmO8V6k7dNeEHGukJTn2j7w2G4067npiR_eI_59vqbZ7SL5zaYiZVsTnL33fcimTIkT3BmDhY6lyKtjVWAI/s400/P1012932.JPG" border="0" /></a> deep sand strikes again. dan<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA7-YW6bUu1ew3VMERNkIgEmtJcCsv913gYSZcLFv-9Y_2HgoWbcb2MX24MDXCirbNCPSBajC0KE3Uvu_y4bbIXr5uJzWOULwzVIYHWvewspMCfXl3sht6oi4rrDJN0NBAYueX0dFsCHQ/s1600-h/P1012934.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281272583938394946" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA7-YW6bUu1ew3VMERNkIgEmtJcCsv913gYSZcLFv-9Y_2HgoWbcb2MX24MDXCirbNCPSBajC0KE3Uvu_y4bbIXr5uJzWOULwzVIYHWvewspMCfXl3sht6oi4rrDJN0NBAYueX0dFsCHQ/s400/P1012934.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />getting ready to ride the loose rocks uphill.<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHp4iO6v9ehFzVZ4uai-pQ2Rbk4ATdsDJfwTIOMm8bUvh39v90ds6hn0QuJ6z5K7VwZuMr5g8GI7dMe2UZKFkQhWCNNl8cMFgweJCYq9Ad8FPy_EM9Bkvu4t_d-7yH54bsOsYnTMbWIaM/s1600-h/P1012938.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281272574349312354" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHp4iO6v9ehFzVZ4uai-pQ2Rbk4ATdsDJfwTIOMm8bUvh39v90ds6hn0QuJ6z5K7VwZuMr5g8GI7dMe2UZKFkQhWCNNl8cMFgweJCYq9Ad8FPy_EM9Bkvu4t_d-7yH54bsOsYnTMbWIaM/s400/P1012938.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />i lost it half way up the rock hill. didnt let the bike drop. i was in a rage and the adrenaline helped keep the bike up.<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmII0r4jH6tSQDMcKrnPDKO3roYAJcAaUedOs0sONdpJfF7K_1UtKG-uC-RO5ApxysJ3Z-cQu0jVgtN0K8MvhqHZZetzk74Mv883JBgwNx_HX6_f80QKS-ASSd-lgiucCzgamVPfUZbxk/s1600-h/P1012939.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281272562588006018" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmII0r4jH6tSQDMcKrnPDKO3roYAJcAaUedOs0sONdpJfF7K_1UtKG-uC-RO5ApxysJ3Z-cQu0jVgtN0K8MvhqHZZetzk74Mv883JBgwNx_HX6_f80QKS-ASSd-lgiucCzgamVPfUZbxk/s400/P1012939.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />"come on siggs" !!! rawwwwwwwwwwwwwwww ! like a lion to the top. it does help to get stupid up here !<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAuWqMtldJmzgDniDRZWVIKb4Ngxn90m9rX9pKKbifH2GQVQ9bjYUgJb4djwM9Y4877CNrd_fFEGh2COaK6lXSKG2_KR11iZWGMPSSCaD1lv9SCpebYgg8vZXyGL17xBl7LbGPlwycacI/s1600-h/P1012940.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281272546772023330" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAuWqMtldJmzgDniDRZWVIKb4Ngxn90m9rX9pKKbifH2GQVQ9bjYUgJb4djwM9Y4877CNrd_fFEGh2COaK6lXSKG2_KR11iZWGMPSSCaD1lv9SCpebYgg8vZXyGL17xBl7LbGPlwycacI/s400/P1012940.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />vicuna<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOry90bbyI23x7qDzVKW9zqqSNaOHyn7vpLF0cusOXTixYx5UQzlrg_eV_FcIjk-YbE_fPRBG-CRl8bN56Enirhx8mT-xXnwiPEQge2vZr3QKRh8Q7XIPS16loIdevlN2-R4vISstWgMo/s1600-h/P1012943.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281271632731278562" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOry90bbyI23x7qDzVKW9zqqSNaOHyn7vpLF0cusOXTixYx5UQzlrg_eV_FcIjk-YbE_fPRBG-CRl8bN56Enirhx8mT-xXnwiPEQge2vZr3QKRh8Q7XIPS16loIdevlN2-R4vISstWgMo/s400/P1012943.JPG" border="0" /></a> the camp is always better in the mornings. the wind has gone and the smell of fryed cheese gets the smiles up and the balls for the days ride going.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiscvx_sJW0_8UvJQQv4rsAKqdz1tttLCAPehooPuHaW6UneV5hag_2OAYThxmARKa1j5PvajgtW90jpROPU5A-MKhW6OHsD5LNbk6QDmL9koDOgCQCk2NfNETK0_pYl-RWmrHt1lvHpBI/s1600-h/P1012946.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281271624101395938" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiscvx_sJW0_8UvJQQv4rsAKqdz1tttLCAPehooPuHaW6UneV5hag_2OAYThxmARKa1j5PvajgtW90jpROPU5A-MKhW6OHsD5LNbk6QDmL9koDOgCQCk2NfNETK0_pYl-RWmrHt1lvHpBI/s400/P1012946.JPG" border="0" /></a> weeping volcano<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjucOchS7x7pz69BVd_R1ttO_BgSse0BVov6eL5WQXvdeXErd9xSkSnaWy_JpJl-khKhQsWrAB42K2moewPzhVZcPlqJ9CwtMBD7Wq9y6aDQuvoSjtwYhXa_0M4FPx1afwSkJaFljO8tos/s1600-h/P1012954.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281271613880720466" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjucOchS7x7pz69BVd_R1ttO_BgSse0BVov6eL5WQXvdeXErd9xSkSnaWy_JpJl-khKhQsWrAB42K2moewPzhVZcPlqJ9CwtMBD7Wq9y6aDQuvoSjtwYhXa_0M4FPx1afwSkJaFljO8tos/s400/P1012954.JPG" border="0" /></a> more rock riding.<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwjKUcwrCQCjjtG-KEG44jJe9oBE0OCqkrXJDAHwa6onbkij_hIxKi53NfpsZhvYIK0xgiI4l7wlK5rlPnHqMVLPsbzyDqjZhlrplye-7iF_P8RRgoLI2buk8bsi58JCTgBJ0uqG0qbNw/s1600-h/P1012969.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281271612506241282" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwjKUcwrCQCjjtG-KEG44jJe9oBE0OCqkrXJDAHwa6onbkij_hIxKi53NfpsZhvYIK0xgiI4l7wlK5rlPnHqMVLPsbzyDqjZhlrplye-7iF_P8RRgoLI2buk8bsi58JCTgBJ0uqG0qbNw/s400/P1012969.JPG" border="0" /></a> flamingos<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBJLTtCBGtZXPl6QJN79klpZCn6m5noQ5_DZSXv6Dw2GL6SW4tn2bdHATQ69l4wjFaVOWt-nOWyRCXrxFXFYMVF8vWgYydsXi1MTL6N01-fBOAkIGg5284dYXNUgoa9t0xIqIMqDnVG5A/s1600-h/P1012972.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281271599344044818" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBJLTtCBGtZXPl6QJN79klpZCn6m5noQ5_DZSXv6Dw2GL6SW4tn2bdHATQ69l4wjFaVOWt-nOWyRCXrxFXFYMVF8vWgYydsXi1MTL6N01-fBOAkIGg5284dYXNUgoa9t0xIqIMqDnVG5A/s400/P1012972.JPG" border="0" /></a> dont know what these birds are called. they gave a real show of liking each other.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGteIxScuPHUgcMfSmnJdhvjtz6mFmeHGJS6yxRKITDqNXDb_k0g3p1iYOXcUmjzmqHj2wlAHXIFPw7FB4USTS4jHbV4J__XgNIs89d07xe2MnwSen0Px3qAc0sEFakONS2ZGu7jJ5iEo/s1600-h/P1012974.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281270714485453154" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGteIxScuPHUgcMfSmnJdhvjtz6mFmeHGJS6yxRKITDqNXDb_k0g3p1iYOXcUmjzmqHj2wlAHXIFPw7FB4USTS4jHbV4J__XgNIs89d07xe2MnwSen0Px3qAc0sEFakONS2ZGu7jJ5iEo/s400/P1012974.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />martina has just knocked up a tasty breakfast<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWWV_J4a9UR2TPpZBZcFOsOgU79futqql5m_y_7qcQZ0FWE-UD2DH8YHNcOKrOUTHkZ5wXPpyQpJsIYqJ61Gx2s8i35q-H7katFyCjieEHT5QaAax65FR0HybgCMnUblm7mdgq8SmXGmY/s1600-h/P1012979.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281270709408815330" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWWV_J4a9UR2TPpZBZcFOsOgU79futqql5m_y_7qcQZ0FWE-UD2DH8YHNcOKrOUTHkZ5wXPpyQpJsIYqJ61Gx2s8i35q-H7katFyCjieEHT5QaAax65FR0HybgCMnUblm7mdgq8SmXGmY/s400/P1012979.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />more jaw dropping gorgeous lakes in the sky<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_SwmUTGBpOswBQG-tRYHk4LUlreOHvqut6lMVTwW5YEg6G8ylR1QjF6H4wxP1gMUQTBJbLXMmyQQyS4ni_zPIorzUiGCqJmkx9ml6vBd4hWPTHb8cF5OPxr4bshOQcvJFX_772LkdxAs/s1600-h/P1012987.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281270695921375938" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_SwmUTGBpOswBQG-tRYHk4LUlreOHvqut6lMVTwW5YEg6G8ylR1QjF6H4wxP1gMUQTBJbLXMmyQQyS4ni_zPIorzUiGCqJmkx9ml6vBd4hWPTHb8cF5OPxr4bshOQcvJFX_772LkdxAs/s400/P1012987.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />coming out of yet another sand field. relieved at keeping the tyres down<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMphEVUE3tUJh3RgLFUG8OLhQRtTtg8vnB17VS8cLIky_y0n9NiwBYLva8C4Yjcd7X7v1T7Ff_5p2LlyPZpvgZgntu6PV3z_gY4TivNoHHxX76a2JZOmM_BfiaWr-209Wz7shFghpVQ_g/s1600-h/P1012990.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281270689070456706" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMphEVUE3tUJh3RgLFUG8OLhQRtTtg8vnB17VS8cLIky_y0n9NiwBYLva8C4Yjcd7X7v1T7Ff_5p2LlyPZpvgZgntu6PV3z_gY4TivNoHHxX76a2JZOmM_BfiaWr-209Wz7shFghpVQ_g/s400/P1012990.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />epic riding in the altiplano<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXeU0JD3jDl_pHDsKBHgLuHxMPwmj3E0AyLlC_Dz1gxYSXwOfN9BbIdJLVUZXcemNxMqUIBCVHGweGG4Udktpf2o6cRjV2htaXwrrfpG3smlm795CQieNLd-tLUivsdfzQ2Q31y_ggTbQ/s1600-h/P1012996.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281270681908502482" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXeU0JD3jDl_pHDsKBHgLuHxMPwmj3E0AyLlC_Dz1gxYSXwOfN9BbIdJLVUZXcemNxMqUIBCVHGweGG4Udktpf2o6cRjV2htaXwrrfpG3smlm795CQieNLd-tLUivsdfzQ2Q31y_ggTbQ/s400/P1012996.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />dont know what she is either. the size of a cat. something to do with squirrells and rabbits i recon. she stayed staring at us for ages, then bounced of double fast up vertical rocks.<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdi5fmIcTklC1EpowKAZCbAgbFYeW7lfZJgkC8mT1uSdSTR731eQiLxQkqU51MthPgMLprFKx_p02Ma_tSB9nvMEkyHKzrmF2F8ds1Bg5ju3i2C91ZwE-2s7fDFL8u84E6IFkGW0rW5WM/s1600-h/P1012997.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281269765202226386" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdi5fmIcTklC1EpowKAZCbAgbFYeW7lfZJgkC8mT1uSdSTR731eQiLxQkqU51MthPgMLprFKx_p02Ma_tSB9nvMEkyHKzrmF2F8ds1Bg5ju3i2C91ZwE-2s7fDFL8u84E6IFkGW0rW5WM/s400/P1012997.JPG" border="0" /></a> a day draws top an end<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjF3MVwfHyewFLPUUewtbAuIpoZXVKNcUidPKp69BFngD6y0gDZocoCd6hM9EyOVgOjQPOnXunKno3ZpvaaBEykoNDtOGNbc0FAkKwC9ZEbesoTTMkEaLUaiCbCRbGKWOOZ_PtmYpu46w/s1600-h/P1013011.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281269757147516338" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjF3MVwfHyewFLPUUewtbAuIpoZXVKNcUidPKp69BFngD6y0gDZocoCd6hM9EyOVgOjQPOnXunKno3ZpvaaBEykoNDtOGNbc0FAkKwC9ZEbesoTTMkEaLUaiCbCRbGKWOOZ_PtmYpu46w/s400/P1013011.JPG" border="0" /></a> the middle of nowhere. strange rocks that look like they where part of something long ago to me.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis6KrheytnfWHYThD9QVFt2m9xaANE2DOUGw6fLMELSpe_mr6vTax8ak1lq1chfPHZltOVsN7NUpBa3tFumDGYGPFlA0Tt9tfX7jLKDretpfF5GMQ_ntcCJ5coTl8inGkYCIJIdOaT5nQ/s1600-h/100_0524.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281269749724598402" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis6KrheytnfWHYThD9QVFt2m9xaANE2DOUGw6fLMELSpe_mr6vTax8ak1lq1chfPHZltOVsN7NUpBa3tFumDGYGPFlA0Tt9tfX7jLKDretpfF5GMQ_ntcCJ5coTl8inGkYCIJIdOaT5nQ/s400/100_0524.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />more weird rock<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnd5T7xaq1gjk7raFW7WrT4pBJi-sLGzrEJSM6eE0WNcaAYRl6R2jMzpwPaF1c19S_bYO9m8-CSKdcqjStALMIYSHxwLjhDsGfJnud3qJIaKJuBflfbQgOcraISJHZjuRhWYSONw_Z-ww/s1600-h/P1013022.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281268403507110658" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnd5T7xaq1gjk7raFW7WrT4pBJi-sLGzrEJSM6eE0WNcaAYRl6R2jMzpwPaF1c19S_bYO9m8-CSKdcqjStALMIYSHxwLjhDsGfJnud3qJIaKJuBflfbQgOcraISJHZjuRhWYSONw_Z-ww/s400/P1013022.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />a tussle of 3 species<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXoiq6iZcMhQrl9gj3QD1AWkCbEfuEUQpuBPWP-j5F5aRl_UK1BWNeX0xJuh4qbRu1K6aUVyoux2ThJHp-FR4F-BVb8sbG8GClkFWj4lkkC1AIzcO558M1nyBImNy5AYc1iqFsRay6Y2E/s1600-h/P1013027.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281268399688622738" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXoiq6iZcMhQrl9gj3QD1AWkCbEfuEUQpuBPWP-j5F5aRl_UK1BWNeX0xJuh4qbRu1K6aUVyoux2ThJHp-FR4F-BVb8sbG8GClkFWj4lkkC1AIzcO558M1nyBImNy5AYc1iqFsRay6Y2E/s400/P1013027.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />touching higher in the sky<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSJz2PD5wwdOMbgVLUUsP7QDqTv1fckXwoS2Xkx2A3G7QR6qJI6Hdq1WlNXQtOqhzUsL9RJEpUuOYeD3puh2U-ehxtEg_w6qnLTzv60PxkMR6o_yUAzGsdBpBPblNhBM7iUxWDgl8OghM/s1600-h/100_0555.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281268388731514882" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSJz2PD5wwdOMbgVLUUsP7QDqTv1fckXwoS2Xkx2A3G7QR6qJI6Hdq1WlNXQtOqhzUsL9RJEpUuOYeD3puh2U-ehxtEg_w6qnLTzv60PxkMR6o_yUAzGsdBpBPblNhBM7iUxWDgl8OghM/s400/100_0555.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />riding in the mouth of a volcano. it took me a while to realise</div><div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf8j2hBMv7kFGfzsfhbdPo-Hl-O5FWUmYYcTNgSYQt1C1Ehtcb_J6XIG53h80GNmE8RAl1jFYteV4Pp7tPpVajM6lnEc4nLmDijr5phgO6FRkhZ97QXrYRq1mOZh_uuRmbKL0Gxuf3tyc/s1600-h/P1013040.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281267581058143026" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf8j2hBMv7kFGfzsfhbdPo-Hl-O5FWUmYYcTNgSYQt1C1Ehtcb_J6XIG53h80GNmE8RAl1jFYteV4Pp7tPpVajM6lnEc4nLmDijr5phgO6FRkhZ97QXrYRq1mOZh_uuRmbKL0Gxuf3tyc/s400/P1013040.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLpAMJWeM-jkvKcAeJ5CRNn4mUajfnVG4pYvOvHQnlrV1aTTUIXjlde97p7UqKXEO-Mz8ohergWgO_0RlgR49AqMhC5FnJdchU_7ia9v4DuOylraaw2Y8QykO_y4KRysGNacF45QNns_A/s1600-h/P1013035.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281267577394425330" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLpAMJWeM-jkvKcAeJ5CRNn4mUajfnVG4pYvOvHQnlrV1aTTUIXjlde97p7UqKXEO-Mz8ohergWgO_0RlgR49AqMhC5FnJdchU_7ia9v4DuOylraaw2Y8QykO_y4KRysGNacF45QNns_A/s400/P1013035.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmsaH9ZekAsqE99WcDAqP1af8OeKYZUhwvQeZYvOEgxBIBsFJUnSvoHmnUAzJWnTE_pGZ-q2m8C-sDv6_y1OQAEO7NSaJJNwNhwCRzDH4B3zX-DlIJTJMCpA4a78sFYn5-PrD_lG2I_CI/s1600-h/P1013055.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281267019171446482" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 300px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 400px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmsaH9ZekAsqE99WcDAqP1af8OeKYZUhwvQeZYvOEgxBIBsFJUnSvoHmnUAzJWnTE_pGZ-q2m8C-sDv6_y1OQAEO7NSaJJNwNhwCRzDH4B3zX-DlIJTJMCpA4a78sFYn5-PrD_lG2I_CI/s400/P1013055.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTwwRCPTKaiMoB0D2Zl8aSRpfT8K_tO2gyy5W0Eno8K9nRPKezCqoHasau1kefKRQIgzlcIwlxgHq32Nx4VCVcRpkPT_9EB4CotmM48aJ2FLhOGWmc3Yvx9f63WG_nqOiFof0XXl4_QeY/s1600-h/P1013062.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281267010188294754" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTwwRCPTKaiMoB0D2Zl8aSRpfT8K_tO2gyy5W0Eno8K9nRPKezCqoHasau1kefKRQIgzlcIwlxgHq32Nx4VCVcRpkPT_9EB4CotmM48aJ2FLhOGWmc3Yvx9f63WG_nqOiFof0XXl4_QeY/s400/P1013062.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNj_JMC6gK3VVgoFNsJCuYBJ627EHqmcJ-jN44m1Ue0mE0UMbtonAu1efBzM-SnpDbz1wRWuZmOppPoLRIKQyAdmpMhQqjOiGEzW0ddvJmT5JvR3Zils7iBxgSQ-eQiTNWzBIIbpBw1uQ/s1600-h/100_0581.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281266088957252658" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNj_JMC6gK3VVgoFNsJCuYBJ627EHqmcJ-jN44m1Ue0mE0UMbtonAu1efBzM-SnpDbz1wRWuZmOppPoLRIKQyAdmpMhQqjOiGEzW0ddvJmT5JvR3Zils7iBxgSQ-eQiTNWzBIIbpBw1uQ/s400/100_0581.JPG" border="0" /></a> leaving bolivia high in the altiplano. chile is my 2nd to last country to visit. dont let this end</div><div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-1MN9V3m4f84IbjjSiF6KuQoFTXKjb54YUh08H7GPhKbo9tBFjX7_EwA9Z6fdNCVQkLjD10_IekhhiUcXpNusVDcDG7GyWmjumpQjx1nCYcgOj1MV3IO1xY4-Gzfqr2CoUWNzAPgGr70/s1600-h/100_0580.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281265795604119362" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-1MN9V3m4f84IbjjSiF6KuQoFTXKjb54YUh08H7GPhKbo9tBFjX7_EwA9Z6fdNCVQkLjD10_IekhhiUcXpNusVDcDG7GyWmjumpQjx1nCYcgOj1MV3IO1xY4-Gzfqr2CoUWNzAPgGr70/s400/100_0580.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy8BUcg6ViFfiKQAixN-WtZwY5JgpGqjfGk3bW__OgoSNJ6WlP3GeqGIxWLRKSz9n8BEOOF-QpUJrG0z8CA5udFVcBQiP0YcQS1yTrXpe1fcAKIZNoUNAEzlkLdOt9f7qDoVYJ7bm5ONY/s1600-h/P1013077.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5281265371842854194" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy8BUcg6ViFfiKQAixN-WtZwY5JgpGqjfGk3bW__OgoSNJ6WlP3GeqGIxWLRKSz9n8BEOOF-QpUJrG0z8CA5udFVcBQiP0YcQS1yTrXpe1fcAKIZNoUNAEzlkLdOt9f7qDoVYJ7bm5ONY/s400/P1013077.JPG" border="0" /></a> barriers up, bye bye magic bolivia !<br /><br /><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='321' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dxnFaiSFG9U9PcqEA8XD-NPWtX47w4iUo8DHboC1gXgS4uSetJHlrBkR2YMCUiun8L29uDtjN6H5ekwyzvYsA' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe><br /><br /><br />click to ride the salar de uyuni<br /><br /><div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3949021732548206585.post-2571864439051369712008-12-08T21:31:00.029+00:002008-12-11T01:52:13.149+00:00cusco - lago titicaca - into bolivia via panic mechanics & AON La Paz<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnCd4wqQLji5obSqsPPaZx6f9tU0xrmalMajOyYuCvIQikDl2NhndoiQUNv8cDJa3YIanWtwYo5I_H29oseaIkA8WFyU-Re02jMTYFlJdLaT-7cNAZE-HcLHaY0fCq8gk_U9ddy2ruO6c/s1600-h/100_0007.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5277556947734421698" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 111px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnCd4wqQLji5obSqsPPaZx6f9tU0xrmalMajOyYuCvIQikDl2NhndoiQUNv8cDJa3YIanWtwYo5I_H29oseaIkA8WFyU-Re02jMTYFlJdLaT-7cNAZE-HcLHaY0fCq8gk_U9ddy2ruO6c/s400/100_0007.JPG" border="0" /></a>This was my 2nd time riding into cusco (plaza de armas above). Still as excited as before. Knowing this was the hubb, the capital city for the Incan empire. All that colourful, brutal, intelligent culture radiated from here. Everywhere you walk you are reminded of what was. Stones of all sizes, still stand tall holding up what the spanish brought to build on top of them. Colonial days touch the older than that days in harmony. not forgeting what our generations have slapped on and around all that beauty. Its easy and absorbing to get lost here. A quick stroll down to the water seller can take you to the other side of the valley, as each tiny alley way leads you down uniquely cobbled walk ways, shadowed by bulky square, seemingly throbbing rock,as mentioned. left from the incas. Mysteriously found from the ground, brought there without the use of the wheel and impeccably sqeezed together with other stones of those various sizes, with no gaps at all. Shops selling clothes, art, jewellrey, silver valuable graetly in europe, tasty grub, electrical goods. i bought my 3rd camera of the trip..... dont ask !!....... Norton Rats bar. Great burgers. Fun nights. Jeff the manager, a giant help in information to riders. he has been down there 20 years. after leaving the states. he has ridden all over. even down to Ushuaia on an old norton. Hes owned loads of nortons. his face lights up when someone mentions a norton, or the wind , or a scratch of a chair on the floor in the bar seems to say norton. a passionate man, full of valuable info. for me. 4 days here sorting things, and thats enough. no machu picchu this time. The day i leave, mike leaves also. his camera is broken so i sit around the plaza de armas, waiting, hounded by the street hawkers, its all to much , so im fast as i can out of the city when he gets his broken camera back, still broken. Its a 2 day ride at least to the frontier with Bolivia. I feel like have been in peru to long. i am not sure. Peru is a special place. it has it all. i have seen that this time round. Puno is our next stop if all goes well. .........................<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0lByKPxeXHeH3yvy-5r281qh0zAgB51t8D6Ql78WN8-5krw7KLF7Qh9Tfu2EbfF4pZ1rNBG3tb5Q3TFNkSi2EohCvtGRH4yuk5W1qWoqiNW6OcErjmZvvix9KcW96Kixd4_rvu1kmD_w/s1600-h/100_0032.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5277555543257002482" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0lByKPxeXHeH3yvy-5r281qh0zAgB51t8D6Ql78WN8-5krw7KLF7Qh9Tfu2EbfF4pZ1rNBG3tb5Q3TFNkSi2EohCvtGRH4yuk5W1qWoqiNW6OcErjmZvvix9KcW96Kixd4_rvu1kmD_w/s400/100_0032.JPG" border="0" /></a>We make great going. the road is still high and winding through the usual spectacular terrain. i could never take this for granted. mind you. i was feeling a tad complacent i think around the lima , cusco time. Even being treated like spacemen in the villages and bombarded by the wonderful kids and inquisitive old boys was starting to seem like the norm at this point. It took mikes clutch braking down completely to shake me out of the complacency. we were half way to puno. through the mountains , high, 4500metres up, the air is very thin. the villages getting scarce now. we pull over in this immaculate setting (photo below). stand there in silence for at least 5 minutes. turning full circle, watching the shocking place. An odd truck roaring past. mikes says , his clutch has gone all limp. i think to myself, alls ok, we`ll just sort it out in puno. He gets on his bike and the ktm hydrolic clutch is completely not working . Oh, this will be time for us to really get know eeach other well. i have a one man tent, thats like a coffin, mike has no tent and its very cold up here, even at full blue sky sun, let alone night time star saturated. Concerned looks all round. He gives the bike a try. Great ! the bike lets him move and doesnt stall. he flies off up the road. i chase him. we are both screaming at each other through the wind, "what do i do now !!?", " i dont know !!" , for the next 100 miles. a game of dont stop mike. stay at 45mph. just run down any llama or pig that wants to dart infront of ya.... my bike is still choking stropppy, at this altitude, like myself, it dont wanna go over 4000rpms. so i try my hardest to get infront and see if the next village has anything to offer. like a mechanic, a truck for hire or anything these ingenious people could offer, with a match stiock and a pic pen, so he can stop... this goes on as day starts to exhaust away. MIkes almost frantic. im starting to get properly worried now...this is still altiplano nothingness. He was given a lucky incan charm off this dodgy oxford type gent in cusco, with a donation to a childrens home for the "lucky incan charm". lucky, yeah !! donation for the children, yeah !!.. i see that charm go flying into a nearby field as the ride gets worse. It is getting dark now. non of my lights are working. the next town comes just in time. i am very relieved. Pucara is the town. i stand there, while the locals offer all sorts of help that i dont understand. i think it was help. seemed friendly as always. Is he gonna show up. hed better coz i cant go back and look for him with no lights. mikes rolls in and stops. his bike isnt going anywhere. A night in this cold small, andean village. everyone is interested. i hand out stickers as always and sheets of FXS explanations... rice and chicken again. washed down with that coke i have come to know so well. The stars are all out tonight. stunning. imagination doing overtime again. I find the orion constallation after ages.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjClK7DXklX3HixSpUa3QpFa2VqxCcls8vEt48uWSxLk4SXq-zbNz_ZEO3mVC3KwL4YRhWTFOKBX7-IINne5q66v0UquXY6EK4oJG28kn3w0rWzKTbbuyC7FAdNRwqT39EQuz3d692TmH0/s1600-h/100_0044.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5277554872012968546" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 152px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjClK7DXklX3HixSpUa3QpFa2VqxCcls8vEt48uWSxLk4SXq-zbNz_ZEO3mVC3KwL4YRhWTFOKBX7-IINne5q66v0UquXY6EK4oJG28kn3w0rWzKTbbuyC7FAdNRwqT39EQuz3d692TmH0/s400/100_0044.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />The next day Dan, also on a klr like mine... a mate who mike rode with in belize shows up. masterfully, he knows whats going on with the clutch. It needs more, special mineral fluid for the hydrolics. The only mineral fluid we can get is baby bum cleaning johnsons oil. can you believe it ?! it works. until the next city. juliaca. a hideous place. even to a hardy worldy, lental loving traveller. too many people , too many cars, taxis, tuktuks, dogs, donkeys, buses, coaches, tin cans, thin sreets, all trying to get down the same gap at the same time ruthlessly. His clutch brakes again. a leak in the resevoir. Dan and mike sort it out in this kaos.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDWgFsoQd6KiP_IVVtZx7rsl91LVrSYIdZahn55xMEUGUDJptIo7qDILtuNTnl0mr0jbb3fVxnLp8Fkekv7mGO_RdjrCZpPY1yeojQWiUdy_6EuYknqS4CdoAQOAjwkMAXQAMO14Rod5Y/s1600-h/100_0049.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5277553788781270258" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDWgFsoQd6KiP_IVVtZx7rsl91LVrSYIdZahn55xMEUGUDJptIo7qDILtuNTnl0mr0jbb3fVxnLp8Fkekv7mGO_RdjrCZpPY1yeojQWiUdy_6EuYknqS4CdoAQOAjwkMAXQAMO14Rod5Y/s400/100_0049.JPG" border="0" /></a>Puno is a relief. We find a hostel with a garage. the next day can be mechanic day. my bike needs some tlc also. The chaps sort the clutch out. a new seal is whats needed and some new fluid. the baby bum stuff was good for temporary service. still got some bottles left over though. might come in handy for something. I clean my air filter for the first time. get a new spark plug for the first time and re connect the electric connector stuff infront of the front lights, that has rattled loose. alls rosy with both bikes now. ....... sitting on the garage floor, beer in hands. all 3 of us full of self service mechanic satisafction, laugh and chat feeling good . very happy. 3 USA girls turn up , backpacks on backs. they ask for hostel info. our place is good. we all go for a drink that night. Great girls, searching peru for themselves. Lauren, vanessa & katherine, from new york city. We are all sitting round a table in a dark atmospheric puno bar, pearl jam on the speakers when i start rambling on why i am riding. turns out vanessa has 2 cousins with fragile x syndrome. At Last i have met someone who not only has heard of the syndrome but has relatives affected. Alex, a boy whos 9 years old and julie whos 12. Alex has the full mutation and has to be supervised constantly more or less. just like my Sian back home. Julie is less affected , but still needs alot of help. She can speak words. They live in Ohio, USA. Vanessa cant get to see them as much as she would like. I send my best wishes to Alex and Julie and their family. We had some fun with the 3 girls, including lording it up in the wigs they brought with them on their trip. It was satisfying for me especialy to have hair again, its been years since i have gone to scratch my head and got my fingers wrapped up in that wonderful stringy mess. even better was to feel a mullett slapping around my neck. i havent had a mullett since 1984 !... we said out goodbyes, i know i wasnt the only one wishing i could dump my luggage and take the girls pillion away to ushuaia !<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUcGJWt7qpLObVVrOwgpEhLLdfdGu-v6Tqh0Ok8PBQp2v_2EZTJ0hvUA6vDeAfaPYVxIi5xPkNl9O4UMFwmFi55rcLpQoTtH-PDMgz2D5Jzwa8WL0Qdy333GwEB-z3psvr5DgkY9PrVbc/s1600-h/100_0063.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5277553084947622162" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUcGJWt7qpLObVVrOwgpEhLLdfdGu-v6Tqh0Ok8PBQp2v_2EZTJ0hvUA6vDeAfaPYVxIi5xPkNl9O4UMFwmFi55rcLpQoTtH-PDMgz2D5Jzwa8WL0Qdy333GwEB-z3psvr5DgkY9PrVbc/s400/100_0063.JPG" border="0" /></a> from left to right : lauren, vanessa, moi, katherine. we sit round the hostel garden talking fragile x syndrome. a real constructive pleasure with laughs !<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmZRg62BDvFo9QPFPS-onMhmlq01S4YiRq_m3JVDWMirSvlNVzHS6hUH64vj3dE41Rdv8T8HaFTjwkucf9v8zsHrCvVT4smlv6FWRz8TlAUWYz27oldczHH3ldH3I6VJ2RBiE_WfrJ1mU/s1600-h/100_0070.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5277552137795830530" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmZRg62BDvFo9QPFPS-onMhmlq01S4YiRq_m3JVDWMirSvlNVzHS6hUH64vj3dE41Rdv8T8HaFTjwkucf9v8zsHrCvVT4smlv6FWRz8TlAUWYz27oldczHH3ldH3I6VJ2RBiE_WfrJ1mU/s400/100_0070.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />at last i have hair !! i didnt wanna give the syrup back ! was already wondering how the blond locks would look in the wind along the road, under my lid. .. any suggestions for look a likes ? cant help seeing a stressed brian may in mike (middle bloke) and ricky jervais, post head banging concert in dan (far right bloke). i miss mullets !<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiLaE3Tqd2p2uCyEhivL2QFmMSl5JH1KfEBdgq8YfJst7VLOnzzfgUswNlMNKEYONapTJPV-HMyfQ14g4oyqY085hfqVJ_Rl8BB_GSwMzDzJ62PvunFWj5E3K8LGrUNiMVeUzR2AUyYYI/s1600-h/100_0131.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5277551361351649474" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiLaE3Tqd2p2uCyEhivL2QFmMSl5JH1KfEBdgq8YfJst7VLOnzzfgUswNlMNKEYONapTJPV-HMyfQ14g4oyqY085hfqVJ_Rl8BB_GSwMzDzJ62PvunFWj5E3K8LGrUNiMVeUzR2AUyYYI/s400/100_0131.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Out of Puno, it didnt take long to reach the border with bolivia. i was excited. what do you know of bolivia ? i only know what i hear and that isnt alot. they say it is south americas poorest country. some say civil wars looms. an indigenious president. that can not be a bad thing for the majority of its residents surely, can it ?.. the highest capital city on earth. a salt desert, surrounded by multi coloured luna landscapes. thats about it for what i have heard. riding along side lake titicaca, i see a vast mountain range on the other side from this peruvian side, looking more fierce and white than any other i have seen. my excitement grows into me laughing like a baboon inside my private life of a crash helmet. lake titcaca the highest navigable lake on earth is shared by peru and bolivia. we have to cross where the countries almost join with a pennisular coming from either side. copacobana is the town just on the bolvian side. the crossing is easy for me, but not that great for dan and mike , coz they are from the states. bolivia has set a $130 charge for states people to enter. joined with heavy forms to fill. im left sitting on the steps of the aduana, wonderng what this place will bring whilst the chaps boil their blood trying to cross. Its all down to mr bush not being happy with evo morales, the bolvian president. i wont go into that though. The faces have changed this side. a more mongolian eastern asian look appears to me. the ladies hats are even more extreme here. the dress, still as colourful as peru and the other andian countries. i am still working on the history of the boler and other hats here. i have asked but get blank stares of distress.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiarxMK29-9O3VuRwmPLWWrkf_2gFpCzelmEOlq7Rwa7PA_aZJB6srIeMrNJu9whdnFGbmi0Xqqyb9_ex5fxM7SMc3E7-X5WPluLfFvT8hwPYygE7nhsFC60u8Of5EJCp3Ky7bAHUyCss/s1600-h/100_0137.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5277550306528054306" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiarxMK29-9O3VuRwmPLWWrkf_2gFpCzelmEOlq7Rwa7PA_aZJB6srIeMrNJu9whdnFGbmi0Xqqyb9_ex5fxM7SMc3E7-X5WPluLfFvT8hwPYygE7nhsFC60u8Of5EJCp3Ky7bAHUyCss/s400/100_0137.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />sitting on the bolvian frontier aduana steps, watching like a baby the new syles , faces and wonders.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigbE7Bs_ID0NZmcuRYD8iN6zdNWPxolp9aHvtFRbkJxIYyzY_sMxip0zdJc6m1AtKI6e_RRXgdjmfus6Ah5ATgQTHWmD87KAGhXuAQ2e4J8NPH_KfZIq6vJ655VWXNFkJfQsTA0E4lGlk/s1600-h/100_0138.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5277549650567060242" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigbE7Bs_ID0NZmcuRYD8iN6zdNWPxolp9aHvtFRbkJxIYyzY_sMxip0zdJc6m1AtKI6e_RRXgdjmfus6Ah5ATgQTHWmD87KAGhXuAQ2e4J8NPH_KfZIq6vJ655VWXNFkJfQsTA0E4lGlk/s400/100_0138.JPG" border="0" /></a> bienviendos a bolvia<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdJi8_qDE0SSGhY3szW2NwTaBWSiYOfLD2AgHLjna2NFstaH-c2jOHiW5rt4uVQkJUQsMfypD33nCVmmK0jNrDghEb25acYUlq4Hw30cpvcb-dWcjiWuegmlnchby-oVpMVIb84livcv8/s1600-h/100_0153.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5277548931588471858" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdJi8_qDE0SSGhY3szW2NwTaBWSiYOfLD2AgHLjna2NFstaH-c2jOHiW5rt4uVQkJUQsMfypD33nCVmmK0jNrDghEb25acYUlq4Hw30cpvcb-dWcjiWuegmlnchby-oVpMVIb84livcv8/s400/100_0153.JPG" border="0" /></a> As soon as we hit copocabana, a small beach resort on the edges of bolivian titcaca i found what i have been looking for since the dalton highway. a seat cover ! i have no rear end now. the 16000ish miles have given me a flat back side. the standard kawasaki seat is no way good for a long haul. this llama hide (above) is a gift from the universe to me ! ahhhhhhhh, mmmmmmm, blissssssssss. now the miles go on with no arghhhhhhhhhhhhssss every 50 miles.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2C4SOseGlSNnp1Rm1DwCsBN3raOp_yJed9ws-it9KKPJOmkROWa_2qn9DwhivvTuu0M7r_b0GfkEuCMNv5Ve1UW9j4xx7FEQkZwEFxDOlhpvhEOy_CD2C_7vnCZaVPhlT5Uxkgjn0OV8/s1600-h/100_0168.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5277547438919505554" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2C4SOseGlSNnp1Rm1DwCsBN3raOp_yJed9ws-it9KKPJOmkROWa_2qn9DwhivvTuu0M7r_b0GfkEuCMNv5Ve1UW9j4xx7FEQkZwEFxDOlhpvhEOy_CD2C_7vnCZaVPhlT5Uxkgjn0OV8/s400/100_0168.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />copocabana market day<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6S7F-q2s19LyeBA9lulYdItNHsU9Y76Xpln3rjh3J0VJlP3nIFxdvjNKgTEXk5NXAgR0BbF2_b8OCrfJ6ReGZj1njOi-3_X68Y83HEZqry58yUrDS35Hx4lR03RQDE3k-AsIUe0nxjww/s1600-h/100_0173.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5277546541923891122" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6S7F-q2s19LyeBA9lulYdItNHsU9Y76Xpln3rjh3J0VJlP3nIFxdvjNKgTEXk5NXAgR0BbF2_b8OCrfJ6ReGZj1njOi-3_X68Y83HEZqry58yUrDS35Hx4lR03RQDE3k-AsIUe0nxjww/s400/100_0173.JPG" border="0" /></a> the big high blue of lago titcaca<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9NzEwqEoOphbpykC_ip4-fVcmnzVwnY4zIfB-4NiUxjyZfDTKgfpdQdJxUl8xDbY4ZkVAetMjkYacRmBTv8CQ4Jwy-rcEJx-wB8dwJAuujqNzfIpEsWUcGybcIgiPAxtplXS2Nym7aAg/s1600-h/100_0201.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5277544950378635826" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9NzEwqEoOphbpykC_ip4-fVcmnzVwnY4zIfB-4NiUxjyZfDTKgfpdQdJxUl8xDbY4ZkVAetMjkYacRmBTv8CQ4Jwy-rcEJx-wB8dwJAuujqNzfIpEsWUcGybcIgiPAxtplXS2Nym7aAg/s400/100_0201.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />my first sight of bolivia from the peruvian side of the lake. " how am i gonna ride this ? " crosses my excited mind.<br /><div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSt-N_FHi8pLS7QXrdIZAbYJmAulHnUBT92A38Lg4ErQl0Dk99RQjh_3AnC1IhNPjUYlYnL1sopUkFPnMmrYHbxPhW_Dz80rdhOgNvF2Vf-ku9AQVD8jTt9IlRGJDqE1vl8UCPY4Pt0g4/s1600-h/100_0211.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5277543285491865266" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSt-N_FHi8pLS7QXrdIZAbYJmAulHnUBT92A38Lg4ErQl0Dk99RQjh_3AnC1IhNPjUYlYnL1sopUkFPnMmrYHbxPhW_Dz80rdhOgNvF2Vf-ku9AQVD8jTt9IlRGJDqE1vl8UCPY4Pt0g4/s400/100_0211.JPG" border="0" /></a> crossin the 2 pennisulas was a nut case boat ride on these boats (above) the hulls are just wrotten loose planks. the waves came and went, rocking us into screams of "amigo pleaseeeeee help me im going down " non of us did drop luckily though. the boys on the boats know exactly what they are doing. from then on its a small climb up into the andian plateau, which is bolvia. a desert comes again , so i must be on this plateau. la paz is 2 hours away. we need gas. no stations have any. we see a bunch of motorcycle police in a small town, we stop and ask for gas . there is some in a sweet shop. the lady stiches mike right up in charging him a tenner for half a gallon. lapaz comes. the usual wave of koas, i still dont know if i love or hate this wave. i am left exilerated after though, everytime and that afterwards beer is always the best beer. we turn a corner. my pannier falls off again. i stick it back on and look up to see la paz. i have honestly never seen anything like it. nothing. this sight is up there with seeing my first grizzzly close up in alaska. with my first wolf in the grass, watching me in canada. finding thomas cavendishs plundering bay, in mexico. my first smile off a latin lady. having the brooks range to myself. incredible. 3500 metres in the sky. if you live at sea level, go outside now and look up 2 and half miles. thats where la paz is. the city is neatly spread like summer butter on morning fat toast, around the bottom of a steep canyon ringed by more snow capped jagged peaks. again the photos go nowhere to capturing this shocking place. Im here to meet Aon. i am still carrying a disapointment with not meeting aon lima. it was a mixture of a busy aon, who where still very responsive to me, and a knackered me that led to that disapointment. I deeply appologise to Jorge at AON lima. Time not helping either. so i am determined not to feel that disapointment again. I email senor Jose Luis Contreras at AON La Paz. Straight away i get a response of please do come see us and let us help..........................<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9gTFylJ1PpyyUdfwcTvsLoxAvF3LoWQwU470R2wL_FeJLVDmeNTxAakUnuqYnY2GZJGgW1JgTi8_Ux04KvSWZcivDc5fTHMZEr6bo-3S_GPPaAP-jskXOmLmwe8A7XMah0xoZeRPiunU/s1600-h/100_0213.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5277542161545815730" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9gTFylJ1PpyyUdfwcTvsLoxAvF3LoWQwU470R2wL_FeJLVDmeNTxAakUnuqYnY2GZJGgW1JgTi8_Ux04KvSWZcivDc5fTHMZEr6bo-3S_GPPaAP-jskXOmLmwe8A7XMah0xoZeRPiunU/s400/100_0213.JPG" border="0" /></a> Bolivian biker police. Smiles , well wishes and loads of sarcasm and then they are away. dust everywhere like a heard of cowboys in days of old. i wouldnt wanna be on a bike and on the run from this lot. would stand a chance.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeZ4T6Twc4lF8jDIl-RSIu3LldcrHPOJMyqjG5Pv8XW1sOuwXt988bp3ezGfXYqMLkHaO3Rn9lxdh7KIlo9kZa_X101gop5tiecxomoAk_xEhPUsSxlO0Q7r9EVY-8OkSbF8P7o0E11G0/s1600-h/100_0218.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5277541352939020642" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeZ4T6Twc4lF8jDIl-RSIu3LldcrHPOJMyqjG5Pv8XW1sOuwXt988bp3ezGfXYqMLkHaO3Rn9lxdh7KIlo9kZa_X101gop5tiecxomoAk_xEhPUsSxlO0Q7r9EVY-8OkSbF8P7o0E11G0/s400/100_0218.JPG" border="0" /></a> La Paz at first view. shocking, breath taking, taking the small breath i have left at this altitude........... i didnt move for ages staring at this sight. the clouds leave dark shadows as they are always so close.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4UsOBxjL9x4jKpFjashNOZWmtDe6fX_78gFb_wEQhN57wZRRFHGRb99SK6z9PwBYKl4VDyzFBjQqOyLTtj9L9aAkAC5Ul7zRRmcRFZcaiLaCgknNfa_-ZW1V4MVBO55JnkrVrfi3mrYc/s1600-h/100_0224.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5277541350830265906" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4UsOBxjL9x4jKpFjashNOZWmtDe6fX_78gFb_wEQhN57wZRRFHGRb99SK6z9PwBYKl4VDyzFBjQqOyLTtj9L9aAkAC5Ul7zRRmcRFZcaiLaCgknNfa_-ZW1V4MVBO55JnkrVrfi3mrYc/s400/100_0224.JPG" border="0" /></a> The ride from the peru - bolvia border is through a high plateau , the altiplano... its a straight line at 4500 metres up . on the right , nothing, just a vast orange marshan landscape touching the horizon. on the left, those fierce mountains. ... you ride into the cities suburbs, taxis, vehicle repair shops everywhere. dust, llamas on leads. half built buildings. and half kaos, knowing the real madness of the wave is to come...... turn a corner and then this (above 2 photos). this deep canyon, where the spanish built a city hiding from the high winds of the plateau. la paz is magnificant. i wasnt expecting this. i will stop bleeting on about it now. even though it deserves it.............. we find a hotel. a grand place, in a grand place. a great price for an englishman on a dodgy budget.......<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyWmYVEysGb8mMuMto4MNE8vGxSUDwrrMh4DiYdRyHKy_EnGeO1ROya_61wk8lTsYZOjxcw15CAxHdEav3-o6qnIXj5FXBnpMT6xWBpflsWuvShN2zU5CRKMERTWxydtL0EfbOeCwjxxg/s1600-h/100_0236.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5277539884513488978" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyWmYVEysGb8mMuMto4MNE8vGxSUDwrrMh4DiYdRyHKy_EnGeO1ROya_61wk8lTsYZOjxcw15CAxHdEav3-o6qnIXj5FXBnpMT6xWBpflsWuvShN2zU5CRKMERTWxydtL0EfbOeCwjxxg/s400/100_0236.JPG" border="0" /></a> I get a taxi to AON La Paz. Its a long away from where i am sleeping. Above is Torre Ketal, the building Aon are at. Im greated by senor Contreras, in that brilliant latin american way. Big smiles and hand shakes. we sit in his grand office surrounded by beautiful works of art he has collected. i bleet on again for an hour. Jose is very interested and perseptive, regarding Fragile X Syndrome. He knows an editor of a large bolivian newspaper. we are in the motions of arranging some publicity as i type. fingers crossed.... I am given free roaming of the office again. Jose names names of Aon london employees he deals with . i know the names, from handing out envelopes. He names other Latin American employees, who i have met on the journey, that puts a big grin on my face and feelings of missing new friends..... Aon la paz is growng fast. they are ARS, the new Benfields (didnt know that happened) and consulting. 2001 it started to grow. they are the only international broker in Bolivia. they have 2 offices. one in la paz and one in santa cruz. 19 people work in la paz. another great bunch of friendly hospitable people. thank you again AON !<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPqLakS8g86-nWZUpFQWRVWUUhD4UE1-ek_8amvnoUc6wf6ijSJZEFnbvZB51ECrGt676yvVdIRHUIUd-ikDcZYuiOJ3zaMonZfvOGeAXhH_4Bxrrs43jqmKPIhwBh01y1kCGQcMnJd3Y/s1600-h/100_0233.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5277539161292762690" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPqLakS8g86-nWZUpFQWRVWUUhD4UE1-ek_8amvnoUc6wf6ijSJZEFnbvZB51ECrGt676yvVdIRHUIUd-ikDcZYuiOJ3zaMonZfvOGeAXhH_4Bxrrs43jqmKPIhwBh01y1kCGQcMnJd3Y/s400/100_0233.JPG" border="0" /></a> View from floor 4. aons floor in the Torre Ketal building. La Paz. red mountains that glow in the direct sunlight.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPa94nPokheZiq99Sw90_Bs20goWIBGlaDkxIW-N1xsPWUpt59FVOjHHxmJ6zTHp_ZWR0_ejxOdp2yx5V5yLyR4Z9S_HjtykeqV-8CH0s8ddxkxZgStG7KNwuJ0e_U6rwXxxVdI3U-EB0/s1600-h/100_0226.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5277538518275112594" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPa94nPokheZiq99Sw90_Bs20goWIBGlaDkxIW-N1xsPWUpt59FVOjHHxmJ6zTHp_ZWR0_ejxOdp2yx5V5yLyR4Z9S_HjtykeqV-8CH0s8ddxkxZgStG7KNwuJ0e_U6rwXxxVdI3U-EB0/s400/100_0226.JPG" border="0" /></a> Myself and Senor Jose Luis Contreras. A real pleasure to meet him. All welcoming, with smiles, friendliness and interest. Thank you !<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXv3JfXIndn2UUpXXUumZlLqkNNEJKTyuEMKWf0vUIt2NUv0KPf5M6xHLSrvBWMuV6TMhGZAgfcuLEQfGNp8TW5NWj2qt_25mU_Lp0nMtLez0nsV4oZ91iR8ZjA_BYyMvmRgn8PPrfDRs/s1600-h/100_0231.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5277537989674313090" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXv3JfXIndn2UUpXXUumZlLqkNNEJKTyuEMKWf0vUIt2NUv0KPf5M6xHLSrvBWMuV6TMhGZAgfcuLEQfGNp8TW5NWj2qt_25mU_Lp0nMtLez0nsV4oZ91iR8ZjA_BYyMvmRgn8PPrfDRs/s400/100_0231.JPG" border="0" /></a> The Aon bunch, La Paz. all great fun and welcoming, again. i go in there like an alien disrupting the day, they dont mind whatsoever.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWCi5MCnmQQrNVyvhmEpJSvpo2mvjJlEdgG8ZgIRhZZaj_nQVuKlRSjSD47N8appXO-MVjMWRMJqvAOAFHUj59WDR9uzQ1yi5fHAf56y0VXkBIsTdkqA4CjWnj_IOkoCAHXpfCJnYxuH0/s1600-h/100_0232.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5277536276829089890" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 300px; HEIGHT: 400px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWCi5MCnmQQrNVyvhmEpJSvpo2mvjJlEdgG8ZgIRhZZaj_nQVuKlRSjSD47N8appXO-MVjMWRMJqvAOAFHUj59WDR9uzQ1yi5fHAf56y0VXkBIsTdkqA4CjWnj_IOkoCAHXpfCJnYxuH0/s400/100_0232.JPG" border="0" /></a> Reception. Aon. La Paz. Bolivia</div><div> </div><div> </div><div>the road out of la paz has taken me to a once sparkling silver mountain that created an empire, taking millions of lives. now a raped shell of a mound, sparkling nothing. Potosi and a euro beast. this landscape should be more at home beyond pluto ! Bolivia the strange !! bolvia a shocking original to this unseasoned me ! fantastic !<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3949021732548206585.post-3268167205506820042008-11-30T19:46:00.006+00:002008-11-30T21:32:39.965+00:00into the hills - peru1<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNLVUhzzMsIKp2hdc_-dikTobYbyL0jUGoOYq-mNPuDLQ0RrZ4lsbrxkzkqz4FdN4S8WSv93GkoS9mg5SPrVztf4OcwDEAATKsFjI0W09i22Jvtxr57wYzCQHPnwCCOhXu0r-x3fGbr4Q/s1600-h/planet+peru+on+way+to+cusco+099.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5274552135892594770" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNLVUhzzMsIKp2hdc_-dikTobYbyL0jUGoOYq-mNPuDLQ0RrZ4lsbrxkzkqz4FdN4S8WSv93GkoS9mg5SPrVztf4OcwDEAATKsFjI0W09i22Jvtxr57wYzCQHPnwCCOhXu0r-x3fGbr4Q/s400/planet+peru+on+way+to+cusco+099.jpg" border="0" /></a> Four nights in Lima and out. Jeffs on the missing list again. Matters of the heart this time. Eros uses a lot of arrows down here. missing me at the moment though. A good thing, coz of my time schedule. Mikes hungrey to get going. We all decided to ride together till The ends of Bolivia. We have different agendas from there. Lima is huge. A long city of different shades. I stayed in the miraflores light part. Walked miles around the darker centro. old colonial buildings again. mostly grey and peeling. smells of beef heart skewers in the smokey air. People all over. weathered smiles or cracked stares. Its all a lot to take in. Riding out took an hour or so. Follow the coast and ya cant go wrong. Back into the desert. The day is long and we do good miles. An hour before the notorious dark gets us, my clutch cable snaps in 2. Oh ! mike and i try all sorts of naive bodge jobs. nothing works. Ica, a historic town is only 5 or so miles away. A man and his mate pull up and mike asks them if they wouldnt mind sticking my bike in the back of their truck and take us to a mechanico in Ica. They agree, with a payment of 20 dollars. im happy with that. its that or i dont know what. After cramp in all limbs from staying stiff trying to hold the bike on the truck we get to a tiny mechanics whole in the wall, with a self painted honda sign above. a new cable and im away, in the dark to sleep at a parratt infested oasis named huacachina. sand dunes like sky scrapers circle this lagoon, where dune buggys fill peoples days with nut case driving and rolling, along with sand boarding and discos forever. Nasca isnt far now. we get there deciding not to fly over the lines, coz of the steep cost and after being told by loads that you cant get a decent view anyway. turns out thats a matter of opinion. I climbed a viewing tower and saw some sort of pattern in the surface . it dosnt matter what people think of them. this is a vast plain of dust with mysterious carvings covering that dust. Let the theories rain forever. mind you, Why would Aliens need a landing strip. surely if they managed to navigate here from 15000000000000 light years away, they could find away to actually land ! At Nazca im chuffed to see the road to cusco turns east up up and away again. the road is deserted. it carves its way around the yellow dunes soon to become yellow and brown rocks. vegitation shows up again, in stark cactus. straining for life. We roll high now, looking back at the pacific in the dusty distance. in the forground those dunes darkening by the falling sun. the direction we go is straight up. i know im above 4000 metres these days coz my moodyness shows up and i struggle to even get off the bike at a stand still. Im well low on gas now. a village turns up with the 5 local inhabitants all sitting on their steps. Gas comes from a shed in a lemonade bottle. its 84 octane but im pleased as a fat fish to see it, in all its dark brown wrongness. 10 miles up, the bike chokes to a stop. sheeeeet ! im stuffed now. we are very high. its freezing. breathing is very hard. But as luck would have it again. this isnt quite exactly the middle of nowhere. 3 buildings 100 yrds on the left . one large official delapidated building 100yards to the right. I cant believe that in one of these buildings is an old lady on her own and she has 1 gallon of 90 octane for me to buy. the universe works for me again ! one of the other buildings is ruined , no one home and the other has a charming mum and daughter outfit that sell everything a man needs in this raw place and likes to laugh at this soppy englishbloke, without a clue. I wish i could remember their names. mum is hard as rock, but can laugh like a banshee. daughter is only 6 i guess but isnt sshy and has had to grow up fast up here alone with just mum. She lights a parafin lamp after climbing chairs to reach it. These grubby cheeked kids i meet, have got right to me. lovable laughing interested little humans, who all grew up to quick. its too late now to move from here. this andian plain gets very impossible dark and even colder in the evenings. After coca teas we land at the official looking place opposite. it is a hostel of sorts. mike and me end up in this dark room, that resembles pure horror film. bats included. we screamed once and shivered the night away with almost sleep. What a sunrise. the land is all golden glowing felds. the sky is so so big blue and white. Alpacas blend in with the terrain and scare ya , sticking their necks into the roads, followed by a charge , just when a motorbike is on them. The road rises higher over the clouds then back down into the valleys. All climates today. ending up a night in abancay. a large town spread around a mountains curves. Cuzco tomorrow and machu picchu awaits. This road is one of the best riding i have ever ridden.<br /><div><div><div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvBY5QqOMsX_-M30V6ZBO-iVDQGs670beQlhcGxS_P8csxhHTMsrI9sg5TSWwKun86D6mMWMMxoPXNNN37HkjiI7M4oy8f7fZVSB0jMpvI0Y-Xj1h4xGUin7wkvJRkwNaDs0zitFz13EI/s1600-h/huanchica+and+nazca+019.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5274550444252514050" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvBY5QqOMsX_-M30V6ZBO-iVDQGs670beQlhcGxS_P8csxhHTMsrI9sg5TSWwKun86D6mMWMMxoPXNNN37HkjiI7M4oy8f7fZVSB0jMpvI0Y-Xj1h4xGUin7wkvJRkwNaDs0zitFz13EI/s400/huanchica+and+nazca+019.jpg" border="0" /></a> I met this bird right !<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJkNk87DBlyKsXDRQA7p2JKoXr4YKCJgr_klpbnIg3gT1Q9leEQRXhEwqyL0pZ3Kjhg3nwlvRiODUbVf671ikjWej_hSoYc9vWIxwbOeUG2Ix_jWzdVOTyXPCEQ3gGUdzLUDTYsi6SFZA/s1600-h/huanchica+and+nazca+024.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5274550438375469778" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJkNk87DBlyKsXDRQA7p2JKoXr4YKCJgr_klpbnIg3gT1Q9leEQRXhEwqyL0pZ3Kjhg3nwlvRiODUbVf671ikjWej_hSoYc9vWIxwbOeUG2Ix_jWzdVOTyXPCEQ3gGUdzLUDTYsi6SFZA/s400/huanchica+and+nazca+024.jpg" border="0" /></a> Huacachina parrat<br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5274550477628174258" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkHwSHBkZQAtVZ0b-bEH5DDlHERF99PkI3PI3SAzUqSICKOw2aiCJAbbKLwK6SbfWLgOmBMJG2dVHjFInwMShdr3SAK_O66eeE-jO6Zc-1n8_axuFtYW0Gh1_ziI58XoGtuJgigQrWiN8/s400/nogas+badgas+to+cuzco+039.jpg" border="0" /></div><div></div><div></div><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5274550466589885986" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYH-2jILaKvVHv4XvPOZlz3kUbQufq8neKr8ssdZYadgbl_uvgCV1pRxQ5EbkxD6E70sNDSwNst9r7eePcli7qtxLQfvlD7QTd1dbregzsMiTU4ycWcd1KClXe_-M1krWs0dxWBdjx7L8/s400/nogas+badgas+to+cuzco+064.jpg" border="0" /> .mum and daughter help me be a laughing stock up here very high altittude, syphoning dodgy 84 octane out. The bike has a real struggle above 4000 metres with teh lack of air. so when ya put low grade petrolin the poor beast hasnt a chance. i got lucky again up here to find the 90 i needed. was a pleasure spending a night with these 2 and this atmospheric land<br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5274550454390294930" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjBzLOr9M6EcM6jHC-kFnjcRW3VF4w_bV7aiYNZPPXAurf0vbr7klXWI4AoVO0mfW1JJi9KEnoJZYLXvl0MbhiFpB6tM0UNF4WncDdQvF7X88PRysVfvVnI49wTnfNQgiM8qfguc9GmfM/s400/nogas+badgas+to+cuzco+074.jpg" border="0" /><br />next morning coffee and goodbyes.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBPQwiSlnxO_Ik8ygvChlJ2ieGJJbXVsbZ4TdQA3OoV405rCXSIiEzfKxPYHsKmm1P7CUr4pwogByI-TplEsZE5uDaIw0zzIAvw_yHMTytIHsbbuMio_PZdwnvnuvPf84imbplEdvq7_w/s1600-h/planet+peru+on+way+to+cusco+033.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5274546598245244834" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBPQwiSlnxO_Ik8ygvChlJ2ieGJJbXVsbZ4TdQA3OoV405rCXSIiEzfKxPYHsKmm1P7CUr4pwogByI-TplEsZE5uDaIw0zzIAvw_yHMTytIHsbbuMio_PZdwnvnuvPf84imbplEdvq7_w/s400/planet+peru+on+way+to+cusco+033.jpg" border="0" /></a> Puquio - peru<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnSowtLS9ptfAJKGz50oxsEzhvmn3Ym7paQMbQm3A_DDGr3krvHXgizXngjynBAwvj7XjMCv4NU8uEQSRFVYcJwSCx1UUjvFTpMhpgzS1r1C7mmb1fz3GcW7iTP8QMd_H-ujW_kct1xcs/s1600-h/huanchica+and+nazca+036.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5274546612758379234" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnSowtLS9ptfAJKGz50oxsEzhvmn3Ym7paQMbQm3A_DDGr3krvHXgizXngjynBAwvj7XjMCv4NU8uEQSRFVYcJwSCx1UUjvFTpMhpgzS1r1C7mmb1fz3GcW7iTP8QMd_H-ujW_kct1xcs/s400/huanchica+and+nazca+036.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />the high plains . dont blink though coz this vast nothing can become a jagged high something in a flash of flame<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOIh4ibldG6ZzFj6Fc2QS2bdR1yntzv-82Y4v21zL_0j9p92H-sOfOhem7PIGhDnbw9Q-dePiop757i_gcPNLPyfJdEhLbxKX2PVbZa8nC9r0EYAxNt_Z21ar8AgsM603vBjuCSjLb8o8/s1600-h/planet+peru+on+way+to+cusco+010.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5274546606303070370" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOIh4ibldG6ZzFj6Fc2QS2bdR1yntzv-82Y4v21zL_0j9p92H-sOfOhem7PIGhDnbw9Q-dePiop757i_gcPNLPyfJdEhLbxKX2PVbZa8nC9r0EYAxNt_Z21ar8AgsM603vBjuCSjLb8o8/s400/planet+peru+on+way+to+cusco+010.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />looking down on the weather. not beng part of it yet.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqtFoSF_5ktmfbptkaXSOpg8WJngTLThMljQYpcYpJkL5cfHVm2iapthAMAipPXlTiKVetypGlDGL06eIoLvGRRO894kwn8jfYsTASQ0em-NlHiETz7ZaI2X-BGBHREB7mfrMJYfcM6yI/s1600-h/planet+peru+on+way+to+cusco+080.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5274546591706231938" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqtFoSF_5ktmfbptkaXSOpg8WJngTLThMljQYpcYpJkL5cfHVm2iapthAMAipPXlTiKVetypGlDGL06eIoLvGRRO894kwn8jfYsTASQ0em-NlHiETz7ZaI2X-BGBHREB7mfrMJYfcM6yI/s400/planet+peru+on+way+to+cusco+080.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />desolate high andes<br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj3lQZd6uVP0ewW3o5CvMuh8ATaLxZ4pS8EJBn5acSFNSkUszU_0th06qDC56oNpsZJDTwndzOUSBe9KrRexsBtmmBv6XsZS74jaN-XkjKGmGYgTC883Z1jzxXNP9jp1ymDG4BgSG3BIM/s1600-h/planet+peru+on+way+to+cusco+087.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5274546581067907826" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj3lQZd6uVP0ewW3o5CvMuh8ATaLxZ4pS8EJBn5acSFNSkUszU_0th06qDC56oNpsZJDTwndzOUSBe9KrRexsBtmmBv6XsZS74jaN-XkjKGmGYgTC883Z1jzxXNP9jp1ymDG4BgSG3BIM/s400/planet+peru+on+way+to+cusco+087.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />lalalalallammas, could be alpacas. im not sure yet.</div><div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXV6tFz2SNdOs-8UACmO91p8HCymh1wpi0CORhg32VO0FtkmIS_Fz2ECGPt-Fj3yaaQAws94KAg_-IzuDp_hGzr3KdvoU1wJwWng0j_s5ENXys3EJp0kitz5HVW0VWX5EeqgQWd_vz71w/s1600-h/road+to+cuzco+051.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5274542742856568050" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXV6tFz2SNdOs-8UACmO91p8HCymh1wpi0CORhg32VO0FtkmIS_Fz2ECGPt-Fj3yaaQAws94KAg_-IzuDp_hGzr3KdvoU1wJwWng0j_s5ENXys3EJp0kitz5HVW0VWX5EeqgQWd_vz71w/s400/road+to+cuzco+051.jpg" border="0" /></a>Peruvian andes<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPRgdZbS4MCg_qJZX-aqs0fvEZP6c_GTYDXca-WfyZkQlXVolEtVBYGJ7Y88_JlIBWItQDA2gQECf1uTwyRxlOkteSyH9fR5FfnN66Zpuv6nLIiare4PtC_EYRmqyDn3mG3lhEbeHfC-Y/s1600-h/planet+peru+on+way+to+cusco+113.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5274542750186595314" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPRgdZbS4MCg_qJZX-aqs0fvEZP6c_GTYDXca-WfyZkQlXVolEtVBYGJ7Y88_JlIBWItQDA2gQECf1uTwyRxlOkteSyH9fR5FfnN66Zpuv6nLIiare4PtC_EYRmqyDn3mG3lhEbeHfC-Y/s400/planet+peru+on+way+to+cusco+113.jpg" border="0" /></a> the villages are all over and at any altitude<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTbVRSkskM3agjyBKCeTJtSws0I5cfLywlx5iGXRuW_uDQs2AyLuyXkcib_CM0CPb8nW9C47TDmd8awFDV_tCzJFqvKaaQ3HdN6DqrjHIxN0aSqUWuKI_OtlJnx6UlB911v3dsJvPbjZo/s1600-h/planet+peru+on+way+to+cusco+114.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5274542747873750306" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTbVRSkskM3agjyBKCeTJtSws0I5cfLywlx5iGXRuW_uDQs2AyLuyXkcib_CM0CPb8nW9C47TDmd8awFDV_tCzJFqvKaaQ3HdN6DqrjHIxN0aSqUWuKI_OtlJnx6UlB911v3dsJvPbjZo/s400/planet+peru+on+way+to+cusco+114.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmLw_0yRJgvruMaJu7N86opvJrO0hnt9g1e6vDaPhRjQiy2qhbol5XDcP4kQUD3GSL2DTH4aRMhB5IwObUrmPIrwcxvEpkaDhHjVCXYPDcIxAurcXJqMJD-FSIF_Pszuzr-vEpj8sLQuU/s1600-h/road+to+cuzco+079.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5274542734583855426" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmLw_0yRJgvruMaJu7N86opvJrO0hnt9g1e6vDaPhRjQiy2qhbol5XDcP4kQUD3GSL2DTH4aRMhB5IwObUrmPIrwcxvEpkaDhHjVCXYPDcIxAurcXJqMJD-FSIF_Pszuzr-vEpj8sLQuU/s400/road+to+cuzco+079.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />cusco suburbs<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4qAvvoa6PJAvmu5jVOUY1jyaFa0PDfhHWsKQzmUIwrlYadqLhptYkuRZ0XEfDcnkGjS-MkYzxRZuFOBVAywi3mXweNnp72Y3Vop64j_zq88apN7FbrkS6BxpMWkhGyMl2VDGmF_mRm9Q/s1600-h/road+to+cuzco+080.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5274542724265309794" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4qAvvoa6PJAvmu5jVOUY1jyaFa0PDfhHWsKQzmUIwrlYadqLhptYkuRZ0XEfDcnkGjS-MkYzxRZuFOBVAywi3mXweNnp72Y3Vop64j_zq88apN7FbrkS6BxpMWkhGyMl2VDGmF_mRm9Q/s400/road+to+cuzco+080.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3949021732548206585.post-58893950482384732422008-11-25T11:40:00.004+00:002008-11-25T11:44:45.698+00:00Fragile X Pedition article in the ecuador newspaper El ComercioClick link for the nationwide article :<br /><br /><a href="http://www.elcomercio.com/noticiaEC.asp?id_noticia=238001&id_seccion=23&id_seccion_padre=241">http://www.elcomercio.com/noticiaEC.asp?id_noticia=238001&id_seccion=23&id_seccion_padre=241</a>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3949021732548206585.post-65296059138847153162008-11-20T14:16:00.012+00:002008-11-22T00:06:55.453+00:00Into Peru<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir05XHwqmde-3VDMyHFlWGtOLtJFNmX-vyMvg0-JRMMZ3WV12j5QO2xf1iEa8Tej9WXl-11sqLuKZ4g4qRH7BdRPAiJ80w3GxA0GbV2uljAZmsoDLMugOjX1zrqL8Gg2DRDUW5seh22yg/s1600-h/100_0265.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5271260759298407874" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir05XHwqmde-3VDMyHFlWGtOLtJFNmX-vyMvg0-JRMMZ3WV12j5QO2xf1iEa8Tej9WXl-11sqLuKZ4g4qRH7BdRPAiJ80w3GxA0GbV2uljAZmsoDLMugOjX1zrqL8Gg2DRDUW5seh22yg/s400/100_0265.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyxN3bldFGriTRxZAh6t3BtiGt-wHaJIa5CIcluO4ZwzRe3cU73EjpfT8wmV9dNt_FlEs1n61T7zvUsWxZcGneBEZ0skgJGTzBYBrXdEz5-nfXvi83dkgWTMKKFQd49b9tSg0JIpcIlEs/s1600-h/100_0271.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5271260754355062146" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyxN3bldFGriTRxZAh6t3BtiGt-wHaJIa5CIcluO4ZwzRe3cU73EjpfT8wmV9dNt_FlEs1n61T7zvUsWxZcGneBEZ0skgJGTzBYBrXdEz5-nfXvi83dkgWTMKKFQd49b9tSg0JIpcIlEs/s400/100_0271.JPG" border="0" /></a> The northern deserts of peru. Hot isolated and ancient.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglr7p83_L5QaXY0imkvkxvnKWx7w6Zw9UANcbR6TtEiXWklBAU7G0W_Cx8DZRvneYs0AaGFdl4jQLxr_q41gQSZkAkf1H104ct613zUB_nSqdrVxpVjKpH8n2OEKAsJRStdUWS8hhNTfw/s1600-h/100_0279.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5271260751347792578" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglr7p83_L5QaXY0imkvkxvnKWx7w6Zw9UANcbR6TtEiXWklBAU7G0W_Cx8DZRvneYs0AaGFdl4jQLxr_q41gQSZkAkf1H104ct613zUB_nSqdrVxpVjKpH8n2OEKAsJRStdUWS8hhNTfw/s400/100_0279.JPG" border="0" /></a> A brief lesson in how to go very slow in a desert. best stick to the road simon !<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSBH_OwkYdMLwKZWbohobDp9swAg0WbakMmf6VM2XTbewtpsM539ykuHIOwIMAeYVz7wbndC_4E1rxqYFaAGedl0r22dDMsg8bUtrb75VTgOSZvPJXZm7Jcc970g9JeqtmdOIIgHe5Hv0/s1600-h/100_0290.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5271260742072720594" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSBH_OwkYdMLwKZWbohobDp9swAg0WbakMmf6VM2XTbewtpsM539ykuHIOwIMAeYVz7wbndC_4E1rxqYFaAGedl0r22dDMsg8bUtrb75VTgOSZvPJXZm7Jcc970g9JeqtmdOIIgHe5Hv0/s400/100_0290.JPG" border="0" /></a> Huanchaca beach. north of trujillo.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxQ6YL5qSp31APDOuiou-y2ghVQnhuJyCwrvPih427cY5w9MNNVR0tIYb-HPO7xG3sCQUnNQzDFh7KH3g_4Of-iHgkWypI25Xj8LVmmYnjlWwZQ78EDkjCRynFGVT_m_7Kz1vh3ahIj4I/s1600-h/100_0336.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5271257167978867826" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxQ6YL5qSp31APDOuiou-y2ghVQnhuJyCwrvPih427cY5w9MNNVR0tIYb-HPO7xG3sCQUnNQzDFh7KH3g_4Of-iHgkWypI25Xj8LVmmYnjlWwZQ78EDkjCRynFGVT_m_7Kz1vh3ahIj4I/s400/100_0336.JPG" border="0" /></a> Through Aldo and Jeff we managed this TV interview in Trujillo. Jeff kindly translator again.<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggXENI8PPJFLl5-s20VggbXQ91FL6qn4l-8u2dRIE_tLwVNvJtu3SHyZo2ClwosMv4BBsBdmatU34FBCI5DF4gp5NftvXyBbzJDw3uboEi3hqv-8kc5YDgPWPeDZBs_wRsW_JJWp7Z6SQ/s1600-h/100_0350.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5271257166358672978" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggXENI8PPJFLl5-s20VggbXQ91FL6qn4l-8u2dRIE_tLwVNvJtu3SHyZo2ClwosMv4BBsBdmatU34FBCI5DF4gp5NftvXyBbzJDw3uboEi3hqv-8kc5YDgPWPeDZBs_wRsW_JJWp7Z6SQ/s400/100_0350.JPG" border="0" /></a> trujillo at just before dusk. a stunning colonial city.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5rCH2yzOniQwrQBXSQCJdFzxz5GKWjf9zJTkrWtY5shksxIh3ZRN55Nm23I5uuYxJmT0pOaajn-arVeJ4OMNI4a7Z6A0X1R4bYcQLX7VoGv7PMW93L0xrcNhPJtBvEv18Lz5Bv0wBqwM/s1600-h/100_0353.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5271257160029669874" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5rCH2yzOniQwrQBXSQCJdFzxz5GKWjf9zJTkrWtY5shksxIh3ZRN55Nm23I5uuYxJmT0pOaajn-arVeJ4OMNI4a7Z6A0X1R4bYcQLX7VoGv7PMW93L0xrcNhPJtBvEv18Lz5Bv0wBqwM/s400/100_0353.JPG" border="0" /></a> trujillo colourful<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAphV7PeQXcwXweK5dxJluuIPpRkAg1iNUyy2mcksB52ky4QIgAUi4pCz772-9Lr9-l8okI5eZacYA6VKxcTA2GDCqe-7Gdb04nmRmOtJ5DiIqwMndeIaP-u0MotkyVwjP_fvISAc7LMQ/s1600-h/100_0357.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5271257159853904482" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAphV7PeQXcwXweK5dxJluuIPpRkAg1iNUyy2mcksB52ky4QIgAUi4pCz772-9Lr9-l8okI5eZacYA6VKxcTA2GDCqe-7Gdb04nmRmOtJ5DiIqwMndeIaP-u0MotkyVwjP_fvISAc7LMQ/s400/100_0357.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />me, mike, jeff, aldo, rosa maria & rosa maria jnr. A wonderful generous family. we had laughs and great food. i wish them all the best for future ventures<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFkZgTP1eFAA58YFBk4ee066OtlOyPf9nKONn3O_Oo-mc5M4bxZ4OR4iU-9m0qtNvrXOFaiPAAnStmqbt780xi31kGbNfQ0SBUGC4Nqdw84UJNOvKaOhpYjPKE__EDxHKyH-PPyFdCnEI/s1600-h/100_0358.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5271257156298056418" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFkZgTP1eFAA58YFBk4ee066OtlOyPf9nKONn3O_Oo-mc5M4bxZ4OR4iU-9m0qtNvrXOFaiPAAnStmqbt780xi31kGbNfQ0SBUGC4Nqdw84UJNOvKaOhpYjPKE__EDxHKyH-PPyFdCnEI/s400/100_0358.JPG" border="0" /></a> into the dirt east of of the pan american. these gents help us on our way in a right direction<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVj5KVFMvrzJZPyOb8vFwVNhzBqhX5VhkJAWy9JtBOZGI8pWaOqGODsp3k6eklegQsvBNC5eoghzECb427ZHtsPLhFX2ZFXMK71d11Y4kXa_SbljOGEvlqVUqTXQswYgT5IHQa18b7mfs/s1600-h/100_0369.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5271254832289305890" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 300px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 400px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVj5KVFMvrzJZPyOb8vFwVNhzBqhX5VhkJAWy9JtBOZGI8pWaOqGODsp3k6eklegQsvBNC5eoghzECb427ZHtsPLhFX2ZFXMK71d11Y4kXa_SbljOGEvlqVUqTXQswYgT5IHQa18b7mfs/s400/100_0369.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />rascal tarantula<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk7GTTJ2CbTXiZd7_7wAPCnCSClyyw4JYfTW7xW1UZzeabU7y7sP4z56zpgRS9J_bh_thpTAluNWMR5d071HFKC3WuR4FDyXXRgKIW9Sb9iIhbDTV5ZZibxnzZXoLq8Gr7lYaEy9ClW3A/s1600-h/100_0373.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5271254828022453602" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk7GTTJ2CbTXiZd7_7wAPCnCSClyyw4JYfTW7xW1UZzeabU7y7sP4z56zpgRS9J_bh_thpTAluNWMR5d071HFKC3WuR4FDyXXRgKIW9Sb9iIhbDTV5ZZibxnzZXoLq8Gr7lYaEy9ClW3A/s400/100_0373.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitn53omKVDrqM4Tj6JcKFleesPBkRM7PqO9Tc36gggK29_m4hwGGhygW-K3Y0aciCPdNr0a_JSkwzRtv52UY5cNUQl5v5xOjUGRfjOwLissrPPcFY1l3RuJDinIPNBil-3Kpdu4Qit1yM/s1600-h/100_0376.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5271254822310505522" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitn53omKVDrqM4Tj6JcKFleesPBkRM7PqO9Tc36gggK29_m4hwGGhygW-K3Y0aciCPdNr0a_JSkwzRtv52UY5cNUQl5v5xOjUGRfjOwLissrPPcFY1l3RuJDinIPNBil-3Kpdu4Qit1yM/s400/100_0376.JPG" border="0" /></a> the road up and up to pamparomas<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKBi2uwFDd_9-1m_4D0p1jA9y4Iw5m_Tpyuta_Rmjj08E2VtWMPdID4XpjllebSQW3rWHPXmvZp7SjGJ929AOjIaQo1ANGGpR1GpBNYIG88Oan17PYCmWxnrmlDB4z3rjvpKT0Ik1y15A/s1600-h/100_0381.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5271254819981111138" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKBi2uwFDd_9-1m_4D0p1jA9y4Iw5m_Tpyuta_Rmjj08E2VtWMPdID4XpjllebSQW3rWHPXmvZp7SjGJ929AOjIaQo1ANGGpR1GpBNYIG88Oan17PYCmWxnrmlDB4z3rjvpKT0Ik1y15A/s400/100_0381.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />leaving the hospidaje in pamporamas<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6HjpWqrZztIemXZpHVRgiZ0J6fOukPGFfdym7nStGDUuFDiPWxPdNtu0JVQqX3ABUpa0uC8g1TKGgTVxUq0XQCBaaZ1q8PbIwjUYZbs3lhXzzD9zLK_QEPtXuVkgIzgepnb-c_FaedQs/s1600-h/100_0386.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5271254816315227794" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 300px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 400px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6HjpWqrZztIemXZpHVRgiZ0J6fOukPGFfdym7nStGDUuFDiPWxPdNtu0JVQqX3ABUpa0uC8g1TKGgTVxUq0XQCBaaZ1q8PbIwjUYZbs3lhXzzD9zLK_QEPtXuVkgIzgepnb-c_FaedQs/s400/100_0386.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />pamporama<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeP6fh-Il8wJ9zU0rslrzYfUykT3k1T0TP4MKCEAQGEAGj8fyKGtDiPo-A-bp3EbKnqvBstgdx0xSB41lRy3G8TA2V8qVdARxQseg-BVpAiMPTbM-OoR3EV1iNUXbnNGqLs358T0f0iUA/s1600-h/100_0388.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5271252090924951922" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 300px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 400px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeP6fh-Il8wJ9zU0rslrzYfUykT3k1T0TP4MKCEAQGEAGj8fyKGtDiPo-A-bp3EbKnqvBstgdx0xSB41lRy3G8TA2V8qVdARxQseg-BVpAiMPTbM-OoR3EV1iNUXbnNGqLs358T0f0iUA/s400/100_0388.JPG" border="0" /></a> pamporamas from above reaching into the 44oo metre zone</div><div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3ROTclasdHavmtegVp7d9XsMUMYRqC1Zo9ag-pQ3YM3zk5Gr8l-NuVgx0b1FE06qVEMTlrYt97Qa0WppE4ISFzdx77TjID_aSepVr9faFR1w7fKdoFLJ85x3mVZ74-qBgq9Pe2hBQ2Kw/s1600-h/100_0391.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5271252084777008002" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 100px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3ROTclasdHavmtegVp7d9XsMUMYRqC1Zo9ag-pQ3YM3zk5Gr8l-NuVgx0b1FE06qVEMTlrYt97Qa0WppE4ISFzdx77TjID_aSepVr9faFR1w7fKdoFLJ85x3mVZ74-qBgq9Pe2hBQ2Kw/s400/100_0391.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />jeff of the andes</div><div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3dMGkppbmmKcvkYT37ktCSl5wopqjFxShlsnitn6F0nmrBBZZ7b-LRnaQAd-z-mETYeGx36gBQy7FLRxL8sqEJxdti2kDUoCMZut_hxd2D28GUOQYtSOBvbH-8M-jkK0z0-DELm-P43k/s1600-h/100_0395.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5271252080376466338" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3dMGkppbmmKcvkYT37ktCSl5wopqjFxShlsnitn6F0nmrBBZZ7b-LRnaQAd-z-mETYeGx36gBQy7FLRxL8sqEJxdti2kDUoCMZut_hxd2D28GUOQYtSOBvbH-8M-jkK0z0-DELm-P43k/s400/100_0395.JPG" border="0" /></a> the road up. the villages and people change to the days of old<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAz-ZLQQg2GU8KXffim04J94O_w4JY5o0xzrjwwNxVignq0XCe9f1d-HhFaF1jCB01W7Oj9XPDvualnV4dO4BzUReYqQKHiBp4mSzzWn5cEHjfSc4WfizIBxFi2urO3i_ssnOX8Yoaf-c/s1600-h/100_0401.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5271252072933521554" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAz-ZLQQg2GU8KXffim04J94O_w4JY5o0xzrjwwNxVignq0XCe9f1d-HhFaF1jCB01W7Oj9XPDvualnV4dO4BzUReYqQKHiBp4mSzzWn5cEHjfSc4WfizIBxFi2urO3i_ssnOX8Yoaf-c/s400/100_0401.JPG" border="0" /></a> starting to strain for breath and control the strop`s</div><div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRFWN2P129OUv26a5uudCXVqfXGRjQm11t87wJ_k_dUQ44X0Fxq1Ex37hp6av7SOaMToI1vLQ9L4Rnzg93Y6r2dSb_I_9q4DlMQqKrOVPgFXX_YES1buztMPV4QGxlDdhk1hI1zdxDoQc/s1600-h/100_0409.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5271252071185292674" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRFWN2P129OUv26a5uudCXVqfXGRjQm11t87wJ_k_dUQ44X0Fxq1Ex37hp6av7SOaMToI1vLQ9L4Rnzg93Y6r2dSb_I_9q4DlMQqKrOVPgFXX_YES1buztMPV4QGxlDdhk1hI1zdxDoQc/s400/100_0409.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />at the highest point and very slobbery knackered<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnQNqQziLRBydKuH6R9BZU1Q22xr8RTEMBGls79ca1Smn3RWi4PWoHKxrkRb5qcoIem742392ykkRb84VecbrUOb1MmKOqYMffCdvYqTTdst2H80Qls1dblOwoDMDo4UaALz15WpWmUH4/s1600-h/IMG_3730.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5271248949393834514" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 360px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnQNqQziLRBydKuH6R9BZU1Q22xr8RTEMBGls79ca1Smn3RWi4PWoHKxrkRb5qcoIem742392ykkRb84VecbrUOb1MmKOqYMffCdvYqTTdst2H80Qls1dblOwoDMDo4UaALz15WpWmUH4/s400/IMG_3730.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFyh_L1w9N8uvjuWVMxA-RvgGcwVUQU_-L8ll_mUGFwJ_tjaj1fUGdUZ1aM7lYME0ssXVTrGRiBCTC6pXXGvRhjPJKgtax1iWkV2jmjSlFZMpXSvwr8H0l5ozmDxXehWGxzzabVoCJkX4/s1600-h/IMG_3711.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5271248947189313682" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 360px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFyh_L1w9N8uvjuWVMxA-RvgGcwVUQU_-L8ll_mUGFwJ_tjaj1fUGdUZ1aM7lYME0ssXVTrGRiBCTC6pXXGvRhjPJKgtax1iWkV2jmjSlFZMpXSvwr8H0l5ozmDxXehWGxzzabVoCJkX4/s400/IMG_3711.jpg" border="0" /></a> its hard to get better than this.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-X7rNRaTVWqT1ejD_SOZx9Rf2-Ebag9IZh_D5i3jcTkEk_Uu4c0_IX8rJw7eDAymUD_pDolwZlgIrIMoE355SLo45I2Wr4tOFGTFRjClR7Z0HBJZlbOb-kWvRhyphenhyphenEzG23255kI4TefHok/s1600-h/IMG_3777.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5271248951622600434" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 360px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-X7rNRaTVWqT1ejD_SOZx9Rf2-Ebag9IZh_D5i3jcTkEk_Uu4c0_IX8rJw7eDAymUD_pDolwZlgIrIMoE355SLo45I2Wr4tOFGTFRjClR7Z0HBJZlbOb-kWvRhyphenhyphenEzG23255kI4TefHok/s400/IMG_3777.jpg" border="0" /></a> oops. got cocky on the dirt. the back locked up in a corner. i danced with a ditch. alls ok apart from a split stomach from laughing<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWX6WKmQDZXR4fXf0m70Z7Cai1GT333MEOV4QtC5Q98kjcPP030g4uxVc0UfX0GZmGvg9A61JD_EXTyTV07s5b4DogTiXChekS-1hkQeSZeORMG62rHlx-o2-_kh6h6_GU5jXcLkHCDvc/s1600-h/IMG_3750.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5271248948047831602" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 360px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWX6WKmQDZXR4fXf0m70Z7Cai1GT333MEOV4QtC5Q98kjcPP030g4uxVc0UfX0GZmGvg9A61JD_EXTyTV07s5b4DogTiXChekS-1hkQeSZeORMG62rHlx-o2-_kh6h6_GU5jXcLkHCDvc/s400/IMG_3750.jpg" border="0" /></a> heading higher. the gravel is calmer here<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUqyo0wV9MjBt3V1YPmLkfwYyU_dvePbBPopLm6AFUvOEsBLDTeF2qf9W25s8yDhAma3gJOX0jrC5ujVj4bFAW8LGeecD_h3-Z58gLFE2IHx-Ebd0zfRgNV0jPEp_mRGbRKPaLz1EAw8g/s1600-h/IMG_3695.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5271248623345367906" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 360px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUqyo0wV9MjBt3V1YPmLkfwYyU_dvePbBPopLm6AFUvOEsBLDTeF2qf9W25s8yDhAma3gJOX0jrC5ujVj4bFAW8LGeecD_h3-Z58gLFE2IHx-Ebd0zfRgNV0jPEp_mRGbRKPaLz1EAw8g/s400/IMG_3695.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />up and up<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMI41Gp8XhbuFeBvAvs8i1Nye9f6Ip0dJkRoJ3FEo-q_AEdTjUrZdXQ293IBnIqLhAhKDq_MB8HOcCvUQqjBs24To6i9h_tS9TtOYFVffZ5YkWS-VvWYEttbnr96slAvIRVoPPa0YTOm4/s1600-h/100_0424.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5271232677508741346" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMI41Gp8XhbuFeBvAvs8i1Nye9f6Ip0dJkRoJ3FEo-q_AEdTjUrZdXQ293IBnIqLhAhKDq_MB8HOcCvUQqjBs24To6i9h_tS9TtOYFVffZ5YkWS-VvWYEttbnr96slAvIRVoPPa0YTOm4/s400/100_0424.JPG" border="0" /></a> cordillera blancas from huaraz<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgslz5nti6-uB6jXrulEMbWQvKUvVryBWqUjgPgtarIBZ-gsBvnZhkHUSkiAwYyp6aJGKzVfz63XwACFe7cfJ9BmswfiGoE_dXrAbaD1kTopJ7Y9vmgZLx6rguJuR1Rz19eo5G-j1t4de0/s1600-h/100_0428.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5271232670884498914" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 300px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 400px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgslz5nti6-uB6jXrulEMbWQvKUvVryBWqUjgPgtarIBZ-gsBvnZhkHUSkiAwYyp6aJGKzVfz63XwACFe7cfJ9BmswfiGoE_dXrAbaD1kTopJ7Y9vmgZLx6rguJuR1Rz19eo5G-j1t4de0/s400/100_0428.JPG" border="0" /></a> huaraz. the town were out on the streets.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih2cmKLcep7ve0sZVxYi9pHkkiSIDYHue-k9_LV8ED1SKwgbT77_IP9KaTnlUzSH6uVbwutqw-FeETN-xcUAjdJWDr8GQVTaymgV93ixldf7eRBOizvyhO6Q4ZHBhJPcYK_4Qi7p2n6ZM/s1600-h/100_0429.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5271232661794915538" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih2cmKLcep7ve0sZVxYi9pHkkiSIDYHue-k9_LV8ED1SKwgbT77_IP9KaTnlUzSH6uVbwutqw-FeETN-xcUAjdJWDr8GQVTaymgV93ixldf7eRBOizvyhO6Q4ZHBhJPcYK_4Qi7p2n6ZM/s400/100_0429.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Huaraz festivities<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9rdBocqhk1iprFEFgQipy3q_8HYqPbmsOVlOqRyIaTxWtNPZpcdqm8qFYHOwF_LAsx6_Y6PSyB4De91mFyv7sEwIfuOP5F8STwOEI3Oxuw1a8BwZM9GnIB4TpHZGdRnDAvW931ipzv5I/s1600-h/100_0430.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5271232656389248722" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9rdBocqhk1iprFEFgQipy3q_8HYqPbmsOVlOqRyIaTxWtNPZpcdqm8qFYHOwF_LAsx6_Y6PSyB4De91mFyv7sEwIfuOP5F8STwOEI3Oxuw1a8BwZM9GnIB4TpHZGdRnDAvW931ipzv5I/s400/100_0430.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />colourful and fun huaraz<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfafda8e2Fcu5xy3pOrinQc5m4uisETKeoym9p6DOBR9OR0YyD4StLyL1YDVjzpEhSmq9XROcPd1Jmpos_SzKafUXsjZe0Bx8Ri9c6xQlqsPfGp-pEX30PagbijEWuwB_2Z1XPmttwN1I/s1600-h/100_0434.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5271232653390566898" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfafda8e2Fcu5xy3pOrinQc5m4uisETKeoym9p6DOBR9OR0YyD4StLyL1YDVjzpEhSmq9XROcPd1Jmpos_SzKafUXsjZe0Bx8Ri9c6xQlqsPfGp-pEX30PagbijEWuwB_2Z1XPmttwN1I/s400/100_0434.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />These dogs are a common sight down here. apparently a favorite pet to the incas. no fur apart from a mohawk<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDppkN7z-QdV57qcyIRlqLHjsofJ7WnMKbzeb-gZPWofkc7pEyv4o8iLtNW-4C3vCJbi_i9RQC5MYtxzUgMqgeyRsGxmg4LSZyStn4udzbnIfPc0Th4-1ZmSHjfFUxdy0gfkxaXhbqIrY/s1600-h/100_0437.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5271230134374659490" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDppkN7z-QdV57qcyIRlqLHjsofJ7WnMKbzeb-gZPWofkc7pEyv4o8iLtNW-4C3vCJbi_i9RQC5MYtxzUgMqgeyRsGxmg4LSZyStn4udzbnIfPc0Th4-1ZmSHjfFUxdy0gfkxaXhbqIrY/s400/100_0437.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />blancas. high<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUunt8zjmidE06OEkvcP-VYzH22MifdUVoqqBzLS7fyZA8Y2WSS8OMXbMQIVFzRwilyWR2ItZDp7hZrFWUqB2sDhVqbqrwANpDQqtOzveQRfhnrrC5rDmUvjGJ8IXHgLhnFk1YwxsO_X0/s1600-h/100_0439.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5271230133397140866" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUunt8zjmidE06OEkvcP-VYzH22MifdUVoqqBzLS7fyZA8Y2WSS8OMXbMQIVFzRwilyWR2ItZDp7hZrFWUqB2sDhVqbqrwANpDQqtOzveQRfhnrrC5rDmUvjGJ8IXHgLhnFk1YwxsO_X0/s400/100_0439.JPG" border="0" /></a> coming down into the pacific once more<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfOZ5qQosd-t1ZpMS1tPLqcEtXMKrJnKBuFVONYSMKDMHkEkpmReEeN_PSGBkkHfqFBPD4Pw8v9Fxn6JBmemq4m9wT4nMGV-vNps0hHJQgw91_KjE2imrsarwzfinmbC0AqCJGBW0QM6U/s1600-h/100_0440.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5271230128711468610" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfOZ5qQosd-t1ZpMS1tPLqcEtXMKrJnKBuFVONYSMKDMHkEkpmReEeN_PSGBkkHfqFBPD4Pw8v9Fxn6JBmemq4m9wT4nMGV-vNps0hHJQgw91_KjE2imrsarwzfinmbC0AqCJGBW0QM6U/s400/100_0440.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />outside lima. they have made a road splitting the dunes<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmnFeQh0d1Fa2JQW4ggppgTccMdVqpd2f_N7U0ASYOKO_kToLvn-IS3sM26acBkRkX7zZrKj9BULROvx_DIFfB-gtbiUwD7kZ8HbJI_uGOOJhMtAThXx0SzBcHbXJAE_IIEoM9RwkUgzo/s1600-h/100_0441.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5271230117662957186" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmnFeQh0d1Fa2JQW4ggppgTccMdVqpd2f_N7U0ASYOKO_kToLvn-IS3sM26acBkRkX7zZrKj9BULROvx_DIFfB-gtbiUwD7kZ8HbJI_uGOOJhMtAThXx0SzBcHbXJAE_IIEoM9RwkUgzo/s400/100_0441.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />as above<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs5MVtsbF7s5cQlNeEQizSdq-fAJBMOYYS9YysQ5G43TU8q3L7ASCh7mU_wMZVrWXIWQeF1NYFww6qsNp9XPcT2e9UqniS__HZs_K6GtGeWVuuLQa8G-dn4wH26oANFnyZ1xAVdP-PcHU/s1600-h/100_0444.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5271230109765422754" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 300px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 400px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs5MVtsbF7s5cQlNeEQizSdq-fAJBMOYYS9YysQ5G43TU8q3L7ASCh7mU_wMZVrWXIWQeF1NYFww6qsNp9XPcT2e9UqniS__HZs_K6GtGeWVuuLQa8G-dn4wH26oANFnyZ1xAVdP-PcHU/s400/100_0444.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />the lima suburbs<br /><br /><br /><br /><div>Jeff has disapeared, his KTM taking him over the horizon into thin air. He had his own agenda for crossing the border. Mike and myself reached the border town of Huaquillas as dusk was setting in. The town was glowing with neons and live bands. People everywhere. the dust and sand of those pacific desert regions constantly dancing in circles, mini tornados. always in ya eyes and gumbs. No way was a crossing a good idea at that time. find a hotel till sun up. The hotel was in a dark part of town. we are told to get cabs if we are leaving the huge iron gates of the hotel. As it turns out the place was a pay by the hour lurvvvvve motel again. noisy all night, but i have got used to drifting in and out of sleep all and everynight. I met a friendly chap in the town that night, Santiago. A man very interested in the trip and in understanding fragile x syndrome. i chatted to him for hours, sittting on a curb side...... Sun up, weºre out and across a very busy border. no trouble what so ever. im used to borders now. no almost in tears stress. the peruvian aduana bloke was a laugh, we almost became mates. got ripped off with a moody 50 soles note. learnt that lesson early. the street cambio people are the rascals. The road south into northern peru is just a yellow orange, with a touch of hazy brown green vegitation here and there, kind of visual. roads that touch the horizon and seem to touch the skies limit. From the border to a city named Piura we rode, head down. angled into the strong cross winds and drifts. A new experience but one that lost its novelty quite quickly. Mancora came and went in its, surfers heaven way. wonderful hostels and hotels lining the pacific coast. A night in Piura, perus oldest city, then south again, through an even vaster desert. nothing here. yellow bleakness at its best. an odd house to the right or left, with an old car. men and women standing in the sand sometimes apparently nowhere near anything. they smile and wave. The only sound when stopping for a water sip, is the wind. teh heat is at its most and the haze covers all the horizon in wobbly waterishness.. Jeff is still nowhere to be seen. maybe he got a bad result at the border and couldnt leave ecuador. The bones of a cow lay by the road side. turkey buzzards watching for the next meal. Yellow villages line the way at 30 mile-ish intervals. houses , one square with 2 windows and a door. the kids run about laughing and terrorising the local dogs. A night passes in chiclayo, then off to trujillo, some say perus second city. Jeff shows up grinning red faced, eagerly telling mike and me that he is staying in a freind of a friends place and we are welcome to also. Aldo shakes my hand and insists i stay at his families home just down the road in trujillos old town. What a stroke of luck and generosity. The families home is a 3 story casa, with spiraling staircase up the centre. Green plants potted and hanging off everywhere. its outside inside. Aldo introduces me to his gorgeous family. wife, rosa maria, and 4 kids, jose, ricardo, the sweetheart rosa maria jnr and the new born tania sofia. We stay for 4 days. jeffs bike is a bit of a mess, so he sorts that out. As it turns out i hit the jackpot again. Aldos mate works for the peruvian TV station Canal 15. he has organised a TV interview. My first one of the trip outside the UK. We go eat with the families relatives in a new trujillo shopping centre. i cop out again and eat a big mac. we visit chan chan. A pre colombian ruin. a desert city, mile after mile. spread along the pacific coast. a ruin thats being preserved. built in 850 A.D. before the incan empire. Sacked and taken over by the incas in the late 1400s. A stunning place for an active imagination as the sun drops into the sea, throughing shadows over the ruins. After hard and thank you so much goodbyes, we left the stunning colourful old town of trujillo and aldos family to head south and bend eastwards into the andes and away from teh desert pacific. A few hours we chuck a left, off of the pan american straight lines. The map says its 114kms to the cordillera blancas, up and over teh cordillera negras. the blancas hold alot of perus highest peaks, snow capped and grand. the dirt and sand roads come quick. my heart is in my gumbs again, but after an hour my confidence builds. We pass up from arrid into damp lushness. the road gets steep and thin as it switchbacks its way high, where the airs thin and my strops get bigger. The altitude gives me a short fuse always. but i would rather that than a full on brain boldge pushing my eyes into golf balls. I meet my first tarantula in the wild . the little nutter was trying to hide scarpering across my path. the size of a box of matches, but im told highly poisonous. The views from these hills i cant begin to write about. i dont know how. the photos dont capture them either. the atmosphere is the same. I can say that i feel as contented as possible. Villages are splattered across the valleys. small villages filled with the andian people of colourful dress and tall refined hats that seem out of place. A history of these hats must be there, i have to find out how they came to be here. Farm fields are ploughed at impossible angles. Nights getting near. the dusk is daunting at this hight and the skinny roads, but all is ok and we land at 3000 metres in the andian village of pamporomas. a hospidaje is awaiting with fired pollo and chips. a whole pollo. the whole village comes to greet us. im stuffed, i go to sleep with ease. Next day its off higher up the road through the clouds and spirral back again. jeffs gps reads 4400 metres. i am exhausted getting off the bike and resting on a rock. we see more than one or two vallies below. thats where we are heading. in all it took 12 hours to do around 150 kms. Huaraz is that evenings sleep place. a lively town surrounded by the blancas and negras. A climbers fantasy town. Lima awaits though so we blast out of huaraz, after meeting ryan the cyclist, whos cycling from canada to ushuaia then boating across to africa and cycling up that continent ! nut case ! a great bloke, inspiring. Back down from the heights and into more air, my strops disapear, luckily for me, coz one argument with a track driver was enough, especialy as we both didnt understand each others harsh language. Huaraz to lima via a night in fishy Barranca, with hair dressers all desiring to cut and play with jeffs blond locks. Might dye my hair blond, well whats left of it that is. Lima is huge. it starts from a sand duned shouldered pacific race track tarmac and finishes i dont know where yet. as i write this i look out onto a grand garden , unlike the usual plazas i have seen. APEC are conferencing here right now. Mr Bush is in town. the city is humming, art is everywhere. a band are banging out hypnotic, sombre horns. I smell bacon from another part of the hostel.</div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3949021732548206585.post-72361755044532532502008-11-14T13:45:00.007+00:002008-11-17T13:27:24.745+00:00up the peaks into the jungle & back again - Ecuador<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5268523173323835714" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 300px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 400px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4m_jnryynHsih54tCYV2trplULLY1CaAxT8DKMfrkoSw7KNd9APUsLd1i818L6t_HJj_4HhTVfUOk4Dt_TWpDaBWZZABjuc2hcXmu5SpWXkSjQEwBzDPVqqSPjTiFxMUUDmmIegfLlUw/s400/otuvala+005.jpg" border="0" />very pleased after 3 great publications in quito thanks to Patricio and Aon.<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUp0CSAQialuhpeETwCIOdQN-W-utMO6a4gJ2sDkf6rTN9ng_afQpQRBVMrZoJC8L4B-r50BQabqMCNEIYRxTUKJWiL_iug0cDMo52EtBdsy7m5kcLw2zHGXoKR6BcKR6tjpRHYzQWbbc/s1600-h/100_0230.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5268527493657800562" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUp0CSAQialuhpeETwCIOdQN-W-utMO6a4gJ2sDkf6rTN9ng_afQpQRBVMrZoJC8L4B-r50BQabqMCNEIYRxTUKJWiL_iug0cDMo52EtBdsy7m5kcLw2zHGXoKR6BcKR6tjpRHYzQWbbc/s400/100_0230.JPG" border="0" /></a> Mike. a great rider on his ktm 950. great fun with large adventurous tendancies. <a href="http://www.mahridingsouth.blogspot.com/">http://www.mahridingsouth.blogspot.com/</a></div><div><br /></div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5268528210766991778" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 300px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 400px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD_ZfsOPCAs8U6-oA3TyohM8-bQ4beHROHLDrbO2Ucpp7YZm5eBNupG7HapbRtRAG1EZvljS9tqZmEZVgoQuV3AVzaOUfazy1FPJYFB-3Nmi0VTA3YVQtKO_T54WFQdbzvkwbUR_XIugY/s400/100_0253.JPG" border="0" />Jeff who i met in quito and his alien queen resembling KTM 650. He helped loads as a translator with the el comercio interview in quito. <a href="http://web.mac.com/jeffsherren/iWeb/MY%20WORLD%20ON%20A%20KTM/Welcome.html">http://web.mac.com/jeffsherren/iWeb/MY%20WORLD%20ON%20A%20KTM/Welcome.html</a><br /><br />-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br /><br />Riding out of quito was easy. I couldnt help feeling quite satisfied with the way the publicity rolled. I have to be honest though, i couldnt have got the attention of the big newspapers without patricios help. I wont ever be able to say thanks enough in a lifetime to Him and the Aon office. The same with Peter, Alvaro and the medellin Aon office. Still riding with minnesota mike , we caught another rider leaving quito. Jeff, from alberta canada on another KTM, but the slightly smaller 650 version. still a proper, tough adventure machine. how am i sposed to keep up with these 2 ?,,,,,,, we left the city getting lost and riding north. after finding our way again we headed south easterly. the map showed a secondary route, skimming the amazon jungles rim. Quito is relatively not that high a city, but riding the road we chose, sank down into the sweltering heat of the jungle. the secondary rode became a dry stream of loose rocks and boulders, that throw the front end of the bike into sharp aggresive directions. my arms ached and my heart raced everytime i picked up the pace only to be shocked into an almost stand still by the bike suddenly charging for directions i didnt want. The road was littered with shadows of giant leaves and strange trees of many a shape and size. all kinds of shades of green. dappled sunlight and the dramatic sounds of insects and gawd knows what. Villages of bamboo came and went. Faces of the residents smiling at us. At any stop the kids come charging over shouting and excited. great kids, not shy at all. The road was bad for half a day, then it suddenly became smooth black stuff once more. i wanted to get down on my knees and kiss the stuff, with relief. Mike and jeff thrive on the dirt. i couldnt keep up. For me super dirt riding is painful in my learning, but on looking back i wouldnt have the road any other way. one day i will master it and do what they advise, in, when in doubt throttle out, skimming the surface in a straight line , instead of screaming in my helmet and sliding into ditches. with mates cracking up at my wetness. Night came. a town with a beautiful rapid river view. hardly any cost to the room. the rain fell all night , making me doubious of the next days ride in slush and slpperyness. it wasnt that way though. the road had dryed and we blasted out of the jungle rim and back up into the clouds heading for cuenca city. That ride was one of the best yet. the tarmac wasnt bad. the again sinuous cliff side racing up into the familiar mist. the clouds running along side at the same speed. pina con leches at all stops. ecuador is amazing. a hidden gem, as is all south america. one hour in the jungle, one hour in the andes. and back again in a day. I still couldnt keep up. those KTMs are fast. My KLR isnt, but i still love her. shes still going strong after 13000 miles. only 2 parts have dropped off. parts i dont need. Cuenca. another gorgeous colonial town. balconies of all colours again. huge wooden carved to perfection door ways on all edificios, big or small. we have to park our bikes in the hotel restuarant. no one minds. From cuenca its a few hours ride to the border with peru. the mountains are growing. now there is 3 rows back of going darker peaks, instead of just one in view. We must be nearing peru i think. My right side panniers decides to fall off. No problem. no bolts or fittings have broken. phewww, i am lucky ! ..... I cant believe my nite watch either ! its the only watch i have ever had that takes a right old battering and doesnt even have one hairline scratch on the face. it really does do what it says on the box ! it really is a tough adventurous watch. We loose jeff. oh well, im sure he will show up along the way.<br /><br />-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM9CXzlP_JMz5iA6gC9yec2uGju1WuzajTKHRD9AJTPuaRwB3WI_Fxnw6LnWYYwVYVEDvOqxySuvrssoVVf9o6nFgvAJ9gOIURALQldqESs1lXvijXVuvgdXPaieS0yGmthcVJEvwEytM/s1600-h/100_0225.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5268527484265183042" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM9CXzlP_JMz5iA6gC9yec2uGju1WuzajTKHRD9AJTPuaRwB3WI_Fxnw6LnWYYwVYVEDvOqxySuvrssoVVf9o6nFgvAJ9gOIURALQldqESs1lXvijXVuvgdXPaieS0yGmthcVJEvwEytM/s400/100_0225.JPG" border="0" /></a> up out of the amazonian jungle into the andes once more<br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5268528206010283218" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ7IHkLOGNhiJXLC_02vpEUNpRQnViqO7tS5JZiC32S57irXG9rGHiB0TE5RjC_368V3kmMtqncX5Mqiv3fIEDNg1WLkRvD4xa7PZoc7dD-MRXjW3zLIfPjQpYZV1I03cFneQRZnKzpe4/s400/100_0246.JPG" border="0" />ecuadorian andian town high up in through the mists<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUG-GpD2iInlvO7A5SPPseMZAJeRJwj59crOllKxUuI7pYdk4r3OI7d7DyYLEvTD1OZ94GrVF3hHSeU0xSyICx6qsmaEEyvwdV6zDokOnpMz2oKyHnk_TxCP-0UcYSpDU9QXpMETs9a6g/s1600-h/100_0203.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5268527477754077362" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUG-GpD2iInlvO7A5SPPseMZAJeRJwj59crOllKxUuI7pYdk4r3OI7d7DyYLEvTD1OZ94GrVF3hHSeU0xSyICx6qsmaEEyvwdV6zDokOnpMz2oKyHnk_TxCP-0UcYSpDU9QXpMETs9a6g/s400/100_0203.JPG" border="0" /></a> oops. on the rim of the amazonian jungle</div><div></div><div></div><div><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5268523157308229394" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib_8UOGvH85iTZWMX1R_cJkaj5te-5wWSy7VMdmPL1kob_RA870WqBqGsSGXcgsIN5HnmnzLK8ZetioXmmubk5MVOk2MT2SFyoRgPklowsO9ho-I4RR-UaQQdVH63Ar2v08FumJrrraUE/s400/IMG_2548.JPG" border="0" />the jungle. hot and beautiful. the riding was getting hard. roads of rocks that send the bike dancing in steps i found hard to dance with.<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV7fRTgqiy1XciHGmfvrRbUYpyi3qzkLkmZXyIqCQMmk4_gUdVI3AQCMlj4x3Al5co9bCcBZu5wC3qpxAJxz8B9UFOzo1ZE9xotU59oBTlFZvkquP4CZSZJrUofNCWPTIzR32XCiD_Oks/s1600-h/100_0198.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5268527478353786434" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV7fRTgqiy1XciHGmfvrRbUYpyi3qzkLkmZXyIqCQMmk4_gUdVI3AQCMlj4x3Al5co9bCcBZu5wC3qpxAJxz8B9UFOzo1ZE9xotU59oBTlFZvkquP4CZSZJrUofNCWPTIzR32XCiD_Oks/s400/100_0198.JPG" border="0" /></a> kids from a jungle town. full af laughter and inquisitive inteligence. they spoke in broken spanish and kechua.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsCbBoEmilGtjR6Vs201lC9w3hZkMCsTpub8w9dZ4U1dkhK4U90ydrd87ReYlKHcLdcbasf8Un-VkNLZc7Ft1wxPty2PQG95sGsKJ-F2mTnQXMP2cmvR9rIyslWiy0rDLqm7AGvTZFiGE/s1600-h/100_0197.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5268527464700807490" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsCbBoEmilGtjR6Vs201lC9w3hZkMCsTpub8w9dZ4U1dkhK4U90ydrd87ReYlKHcLdcbasf8Un-VkNLZc7Ft1wxPty2PQG95sGsKJ-F2mTnQXMP2cmvR9rIyslWiy0rDLqm7AGvTZFiGE/s400/100_0197.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />jungle town kids<br /><br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5268519128333100306" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 267px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYvkezETYdkEWZlwM9uJVWJPjn-tSZc4-czziVdfEa1S2qy5L63xdWa-zm36IgnZkFMvqruVcHcuxMg-y_ekfyu9DHk2__xNDQYrWcuKJUxcCL9KvITamGdW5WmezWgGwa4tYKnLVz8Aw/s400/IMG_3485.JPG" border="0" /><br /><div><br />the riding get interesting heading up into the clouds<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlpanutTo008ILoaw5xJ-Gg8I2cQ7A6boP69hcQLiN8NoMFvmqTVSZrpJAngX9mra4ljV8Rx6HuciBK-WulkWFb5-4rXMsbg8Za8eriNMygGsBlzmcYue2SUDyPU-jlETtwLNgsL_JBws/s1600-h/IMG_2659.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5268523167284427266" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlpanutTo008ILoaw5xJ-Gg8I2cQ7A6boP69hcQLiN8NoMFvmqTVSZrpJAngX9mra4ljV8Rx6HuciBK-WulkWFb5-4rXMsbg8Za8eriNMygGsBlzmcYue2SUDyPU-jlETtwLNgsL_JBws/s400/IMG_2659.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />slippery roads get the heart racing and the knuckles a shade of white<br /><br /><br /><div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaBaDm9VFYr8rwK7ANTCFNoiC766NMnqdweaT9Nur0baWS7oTRX7_gtmOh6EkNBAm6bME3dTQwxNmvcyBhD7CXv7TvKJ6UpgBp7eHVDLeQuo89vSNyMb4IGchOaf10V4GEpO4XEIEF8AI/s1600-h/IMG_2649.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5268523148548568274" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 300px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 400px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaBaDm9VFYr8rwK7ANTCFNoiC766NMnqdweaT9Nur0baWS7oTRX7_gtmOh6EkNBAm6bME3dTQwxNmvcyBhD7CXv7TvKJ6UpgBp7eHVDLeQuo89vSNyMb4IGchOaf10V4GEpO4XEIEF8AI/s400/IMG_2649.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />ecuador andes<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyINsIZv7RAqoq6Y_zZ2R5_0atB-2NIQgcS8tzCZFuBK8wFuSelL_l1S97I0xzMyvW7qWc0TRZPVYsIf7GpJdT7p7kwMNalbvST6HB5OEMFmZeTvG60AosmguMlTFjGl0gz6CWQMWJBiU/s1600-h/IMG_3541.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5268523142211020338" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 267px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyINsIZv7RAqoq6Y_zZ2R5_0atB-2NIQgcS8tzCZFuBK8wFuSelL_l1S97I0xzMyvW7qWc0TRZPVYsIf7GpJdT7p7kwMNalbvST6HB5OEMFmZeTvG60AosmguMlTFjGl0gz6CWQMWJBiU/s400/IMG_3541.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />splash. the waterf falls into the mountain roads. ecuador<br /><br /><div><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5268519135938263714" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 267px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 400px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVTYsMCEY5aTbVZXGgeJEAsIwgi_W2xfqGRRDsbw0R1bBPN6-g9hBYQuILr2X-_wVI0CbsJOrRHfoznFnENaFMuXD4RFKM90wU_QhRWCvpS6wKv1QdOIjbkYf9wMNzuwfJcuNLbTvzSCA/s400/IMG_3493.JPG" border="0" /><br />in one day. the mountains down into the jungle then back up into the mountains. incredible shocking vistas along the way.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjye2phMiDLotG521GUYElAEXbHxAOxDeAifPaH4zAdfRJ-49L5z6o0CmLHFxfX26yRjTDwycffwni_pFUZpqpA3ItkGAV7t-jS4o4gq7u_193S3hIrptNNOB8bx1Jf26KTXqcNM8GsH1o/s1600-h/IMG_3266.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5268519119559073378" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 267px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjye2phMiDLotG521GUYElAEXbHxAOxDeAifPaH4zAdfRJ-49L5z6o0CmLHFxfX26yRjTDwycffwni_pFUZpqpA3ItkGAV7t-jS4o4gq7u_193S3hIrptNNOB8bx1Jf26KTXqcNM8GsH1o/s400/IMG_3266.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />ecuador . enjoying the tarmac while it lasts</div><div><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4eQcYUlyS_mHIH3YtlI5VJF9sh3EdoFcT84lbpAwAO5u1XMgsV8gBq7aDVRkCkKEZIlL2w1GTLpJwUX3LPE6CGz_cTbogNkszuK83FZAnpQFK3mFqfoE1p4lGFaWWmrg6PpSDDySfBhE/s1600-h/IMG_3244.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5268519105212495554" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 267px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4eQcYUlyS_mHIH3YtlI5VJF9sh3EdoFcT84lbpAwAO5u1XMgsV8gBq7aDVRkCkKEZIlL2w1GTLpJwUX3LPE6CGz_cTbogNkszuK83FZAnpQFK3mFqfoE1p4lGFaWWmrg6PpSDDySfBhE/s400/IMG_3244.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />the KLR can be fast. honest</div><div></div><div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmnaMjd4uO2f03oqgY_rmgOMJqhinYEFTxHt2x68bYY3-dSOJXfXvQapW1jsrSJPprAN8no-VkGfv-VJfcLn4qbaldgOboG5BgBJtMmswl24RzIwWczilOIW-m-u3RD1OyzG5u_ZCjQMk/s1600-h/IMG_3174.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5268519098962723250" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 267px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmnaMjd4uO2f03oqgY_rmgOMJqhinYEFTxHt2x68bYY3-dSOJXfXvQapW1jsrSJPprAN8no-VkGfv-VJfcLn4qbaldgOboG5BgBJtMmswl24RzIwWczilOIW-m-u3RD1OyzG5u_ZCjQMk/s400/IMG_3174.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />splash again.............................. NEXT INTO THE NORTHERN DESERTS OF MYSTERIOUS PERU !<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3949021732548206585.post-54906455850119095372008-11-06T21:08:00.007+00:002008-11-09T12:51:03.709+00:00From the middle of the world<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj22QaKxC1AGSVzh0qE2hEuFHp6S63UVVaHhfiZfpcvBjkwuwT3GBjtlqdEe3g4VeLRRZ8O_pFyRtx3ei4jdNO4FIeN4I7_ogE3086-CneVDNbmEyeyB-clr6yVk827B4nJrn9nrYxU_SU/s1600-h/100_0159.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj22QaKxC1AGSVzh0qE2hEuFHp6S63UVVaHhfiZfpcvBjkwuwT3GBjtlqdEe3g4VeLRRZ8O_pFyRtx3ei4jdNO4FIeN4I7_ogE3086-CneVDNbmEyeyB-clr6yVk827B4nJrn9nrYxU_SU/s400/100_0159.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266634815363277458" border="0" /></a>Banos, ecuador. the village sits at the foot of tungurahua , a volcano, thats quiet right now, but always up for some red hot spewing. gonna find a way up it today. 2 years ago vacuation.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit69Y0c_uPJhss2xIaz4Gcm-CiCuM-Ra56jNsHIO7aVq9gor36gpc8ScGytGUigtGL4rc-KF59TTxyJ-9fM-ZjOAv3OrCDXYjFVVqZBo0f_3gvXDb_oZj6VsRZuTfmitn6SzaM5fNmggs/s1600-h/100_0146.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit69Y0c_uPJhss2xIaz4Gcm-CiCuM-Ra56jNsHIO7aVq9gor36gpc8ScGytGUigtGL4rc-KF59TTxyJ-9fM-ZjOAv3OrCDXYjFVVqZBo0f_3gvXDb_oZj6VsRZuTfmitn6SzaM5fNmggs/s400/100_0146.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266634803375803074" border="0" /></a>Aon Quito. Thnak you. i wish i could remember everyones names.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNOLzhob5o26RMFA1vNvPdyak6kIYY47l-ro3DPsgrr4DkBjOcbGArx_VhR0W35iAtbK9rqYMgbmAUQ42XdpNQ8eTJu6KSTqYBFJlSyfRwIoSnupjToO4lUBMdUtB5w8npLgeVkpHiJCc/s1600-h/100_0143.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNOLzhob5o26RMFA1vNvPdyak6kIYY47l-ro3DPsgrr4DkBjOcbGArx_VhR0W35iAtbK9rqYMgbmAUQ42XdpNQ8eTJu6KSTqYBFJlSyfRwIoSnupjToO4lUBMdUtB5w8npLgeVkpHiJCc/s400/100_0143.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266634801012102306" border="0" /></a>All fun and helpful at Aon Quito<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU6xpMQOqavhLptokpoOG5KpNNdrW33Br04nUO3EmIK5M3Z1g2J2Wc0z0tTkNyjVuSeOcUkf2irZm-vNb-ERvW-1bOPIV_X01axkzwRf_6ZyfIeV4XNhHK5obh5S8nHItJT3Kqn8GBRjo/s1600-h/100_0142.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU6xpMQOqavhLptokpoOG5KpNNdrW33Br04nUO3EmIK5M3Z1g2J2Wc0z0tTkNyjVuSeOcUkf2irZm-vNb-ERvW-1bOPIV_X01axkzwRf_6ZyfIeV4XNhHK5obh5S8nHItJT3Kqn8GBRjo/s400/100_0142.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266634795098896338" border="0" /></a>I was welcomed with open arms and big smiles. Aon quito<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgirwfOn5_z_EgTi9lbDNoJIzj6Sj5Fa5HSqVXNlQ6w3Ym2TVD3o9OWNATv3m-892cCdamXwQrnx2tg641upJVesAVeQxrClgQea0Iv1uGsYI_2nhzbyveS__0nQjIY-EecoYDoWin0FtM/s1600-h/100_0118.JPG"></a><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRl8BARvsSm3g4iuc2D5IoPClwjBzc952FWmspIjEigktz_CUuy13IQPihGi0hw8cZPYJMo5i227XfW2wpzmBdHCspMRGe1kKU6lz0e2twwSsO89HTh4Yyvf1sw3QxMUNzsHve2m0MPXQ/s1600-h/100_0118.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265660684182783458" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 400px; height: 300px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRl8BARvsSm3g4iuc2D5IoPClwjBzc952FWmspIjEigktz_CUuy13IQPihGi0hw8cZPYJMo5i227XfW2wpzmBdHCspMRGe1kKU6lz0e2twwSsO89HTh4Yyvf1sw3QxMUNzsHve2m0MPXQ/s400/100_0118.JPG" border="0" /></a> {above photo at the equator}......... I rode out of Medellin, Colombia heading south with mike and willy. Mike from minnesota on a gorgeous ktm 950 and willy on his saucy bmw gs1200, all gadgets inclusive. Paul owner of the casa kiwi lead us out of town, which i am grateful for, that saved the habitual getting lost , sweaty and a tad stroppy. as soon as we were out of town the mountain roads took us , winding higher and higher. Passing through villages, built on the peaks. Sometimes above the clouds with the buzzards to keep us company and always a symbol of to be careful. i dont wanna be their grub. As night was near i managed to loose the boys and take the wrong road. I stayed in Anserma. a small town once again built on the edge of a mountain, beautiful and friendly. Realising the boys would be in santa rosa i managed to catch up with them blasting down to popayan. a colonial town celebrating haloween in gorey style. This is a part of the world that they say is a hotspot, due to guerilla activity. I saw nothing threatening or cold. just more freindly faces and good wishes. pasto is the town we needed as a last stop before the border with ecuador. 3000 metres up in the mist. willy had blasted off, leaving mike and myself to cut through the damp mountain mist into the early night. it was dificult. cold and vision was almost zero. we had to wait and just follow a cars rear lights. when that car disapeared , we`d have to wait and catch the next car. mike got disorientated at one point , stopped and didnt know whether he was unside down or not, which infected to me and we both dropped the bikes at a stand still. laughing our heads off laying on the wet tarmac. That night in pasto, scoffing chicken and rice mike had the horrendous realisation, with his head in his hands, that he had left all his papers, back at the previous nights hotel in popayan, under his matress. 150 miles back along a beautiful, difficult ride. All his legal in colombia papers everything. Alongside getting the bike nicked this is the worse thing that can happen. Alls rosy now though, we took a taxi back the next day, which took all day. Victor was our nutcase driver, who without fibbing, nearly got us meeting our maker more than 20 times, including just narrowly missing a donkey, who was wistfully standing around a corner in the middle of the night time road. i still cant guess how he managed to avoid that one. he just laughed all the close shaves off, in that , oh well, what will be will be way. I am a lucky man ! i dont take that for granted though !....... crossing the border was a breeze. 40 minutes. all the windows and offices needed all colse to each other. the only problem was trying to get these tequila supping nutters off of the bikes to let us out of colombia. all good fun. The clouds are down so far in ecuador. until today that is. the bluest of blue skies and visible volcanoes at last. The faces have changed now. the people smaller. indeginous ways, clothes , smells and foods. incredibly interesting just to sit and people watch. weathered faces telling so much. giggling kids , waving from the road shoulders. After a few stop overs in more beautiful towns and crossing the equator into the southern hemisphere and summer, i`ve landed in Quito. ecuadors heaving capital city. the easiest to navigate city i have visited so far. clean and stunning this place. many many euro tourists. all waiting to go off into their own adventures, mountain climbind, white water rafting, horse riding. all sorts. this is a hubb. Volcanos majestic overlooking the city. The last eruption, around 5 years ago. I have been spoiled by the Aon office here, as i was in medellin. Olvaro put me intouch with patricio rodriguez at the quito office. i visited them to day, to have a newspaper photographer waiting for me and an interview already set up the national paper named, Hoy. I was also warmly recieved by gustavo proano tola, alberto davalos b, alejandra garzan and all that work there. They all took time from their busy days to listen to my story and heartfeltly wished me sucess. My good luck hasnt changed yet. gustavos daughter diana. just so happens to work as a journalist, for the Hoy newspaper. She interviewed me over an hour, asking great questions. understanding fragile x syndrome. again no one has heard of FXS, but now they have. The article is released next wednesday. check it out at the website <a href="http://www.hoy.com.ec/">http://www.hoy.com.ec/</a> .. El comercio the national paper of ecuador interviewed me with high passion also. their article on the FXP will be released in their sunday supplement called Famlilia, 2 months from now. so keep an eye open for that one. also while doing that interview, a young lady from an organisation that helps families in need also interviewd me, so theres another article out there....... patricio is a motorcycle fantatic aswell. he has invited me to ride out on saturday with his friends, to ride some great roads and see more vistas, that i wouldnt have seen otherwise. Like in medellin i will never forget these peoples generosity, understanding and huge help. I have definatly fallen in love with south america ! i am pushed for time now. must get my skates on.....<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaMz5RpJVzzY-1je4Obn8LaHXIv7R3KB6yjZbbvLDLWiTRj-CD1hfWaPl6glWkeoGmZt8wQNvczMZ43Wq6hfADw8wmhKN3tfAt6riYff3dJZJHgEi9ZcYs-H7OVzYjZ4HovP2TG-RkzyQ/s1600-h/100_0096.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265660179954496242" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 400px; height: 300px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaMz5RpJVzzY-1je4Obn8LaHXIv7R3KB6yjZbbvLDLWiTRj-CD1hfWaPl6glWkeoGmZt8wQNvczMZ43Wq6hfADw8wmhKN3tfAt6riYff3dJZJHgEi9ZcYs-H7OVzYjZ4HovP2TG-RkzyQ/s400/100_0096.JPG" border="0" /></a> border. colombia into ecuador<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDLm6lUK2EFx9_dLJykGnKpdRIFFNjkyDyVSPI0wO_5NuT92oSDfAmX-Tb7V5H2O5muthDcOkRzJn-xI-6gaOGAZC-fZ6yTWOoUQSXYes4VgYx5CiKsrVslHwmk2qpuiGI9r5XQBhh8g8/s1600-h/100_0099.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265660168022131778" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 400px; height: 300px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDLm6lUK2EFx9_dLJykGnKpdRIFFNjkyDyVSPI0wO_5NuT92oSDfAmX-Tb7V5H2O5muthDcOkRzJn-xI-6gaOGAZC-fZ6yTWOoUQSXYes4VgYx5CiKsrVslHwmk2qpuiGI9r5XQBhh8g8/s400/100_0099.JPG" border="0" /></a> buzzard<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-wjQoEZ4QThzWvUQSj1ntDoOj5S6wXdDf1OKG6Be11DY78y89khejER1qoAhz8uLUPhpakTf2wp5qdIZ8-u-i92x_DXXOwwo8QeCGTB_KFKfaPXQd1uN24p1wS_NGVvlaGB15bW_fFoc/s1600-h/100_0104.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265660160241807170" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 400px; height: 300px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-wjQoEZ4QThzWvUQSj1ntDoOj5S6wXdDf1OKG6Be11DY78y89khejER1qoAhz8uLUPhpakTf2wp5qdIZ8-u-i92x_DXXOwwo8QeCGTB_KFKfaPXQd1uN24p1wS_NGVvlaGB15bW_fFoc/s400/100_0104.JPG" border="0" /></a> mike and me. my klr and his ktm. a beast.<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdqaEmYu8oAvgz-wF_4hck4YcP2F7GhKP0FeoT1WqDZvMisqZoXHqEHzbtejZqvXLHAVRw9uSNPR22kuASYSPlVkLlq5U4uarMtFUSQIlIHuF7k-o6T_peashu7l6ESXndUN8Xsh2yfXM/s1600-h/100_0111.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265660153697755858" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 400px; height: 300px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdqaEmYu8oAvgz-wF_4hck4YcP2F7GhKP0FeoT1WqDZvMisqZoXHqEHzbtejZqvXLHAVRw9uSNPR22kuASYSPlVkLlq5U4uarMtFUSQIlIHuF7k-o6T_peashu7l6ESXndUN8Xsh2yfXM/s400/100_0111.JPG" border="0" /></a> guillermo and family. Otavalo, ecuador<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_anyztMxSgSwPMzl96DNzb6X9zRpuBV7AI9h_Nglx0eRjwShQAub_bkWW_DJZmKXWFc9Yaz7PCWEbeLibAgIdiUtBeIXzctCZ_f2a6lc8MtOct5wC_VI6TUjDQN4ruBvQnuaJ5p3OSY4/s1600-h/100_0115.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265660147956923842" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 400px; height: 300px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_anyztMxSgSwPMzl96DNzb6X9zRpuBV7AI9h_Nglx0eRjwShQAub_bkWW_DJZmKXWFc9Yaz7PCWEbeLibAgIdiUtBeIXzctCZ_f2a6lc8MtOct5wC_VI6TUjDQN4ruBvQnuaJ5p3OSY4/s400/100_0115.JPG" border="0" /></a> otavalo residents<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWNSV7VEHSXuUMjJcR3ZatH6uab8rXnAlF0oGQdLyKfZBu2JX8nNa5JjFRYhDllX84yNYIWHZT9TT7Lk55Cf7YOsmy5Efd3PXrSR3su945Od-auTdwsuc8AdduGdXffieRjjU41PLvjyE/s1600-h/100_0116.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265659151523422594" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 300px; height: 400px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWNSV7VEHSXuUMjJcR3ZatH6uab8rXnAlF0oGQdLyKfZBu2JX8nNa5JjFRYhDllX84yNYIWHZT9TT7Lk55Cf7YOsmy5Efd3PXrSR3su945Od-auTdwsuc8AdduGdXffieRjjU41PLvjyE/s400/100_0116.JPG" border="0" /></a> otavalo residents<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWGAUy77g865llzKcxjSkem_AnRmIhQ3l5XL_RL4fQ-n4wpIcXtKtGsMMjslFw7yp6mLy34zGIvShkn74b1hP_quxZCo5InTEeEMeWu4wpOyxJ9xb-M-zW3iORbnTplMnnnpliYt5Z7pk/s1600-h/100_0117.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265659147712251778" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 400px; height: 300px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWGAUy77g865llzKcxjSkem_AnRmIhQ3l5XL_RL4fQ-n4wpIcXtKtGsMMjslFw7yp6mLy34zGIvShkn74b1hP_quxZCo5InTEeEMeWu4wpOyxJ9xb-M-zW3iORbnTplMnnnpliYt5Z7pk/s400/100_0117.JPG" border="0" /></a> market town otavalo<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHpPx5eNRSfhkrqWO3dAdlpmCeNS1r2ZY3f7CiG_ViHnKWue3mZUfsbPOI50UFLWnDGDMzmNoO92df2w0osmzuBb1WPpdpJXSdAuoQ-rQaoZTi0PlU1cVU2OTZsrdVnrmdmcZNcl5Mfd8/s1600-h/100_0127.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265659137876543026" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 400px; height: 300px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHpPx5eNRSfhkrqWO3dAdlpmCeNS1r2ZY3f7CiG_ViHnKWue3mZUfsbPOI50UFLWnDGDMzmNoO92df2w0osmzuBb1WPpdpJXSdAuoQ-rQaoZTi0PlU1cVU2OTZsrdVnrmdmcZNcl5Mfd8/s400/100_0127.JPG" border="0" /></a> quito from the Aon office<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1-ObRn5YqTm7uaXGJJIUQ-GawsfQorIn7halPPzJr7YDo6_H-MusJ7VbUHZe7XfadsKatzNwMfZ7g9PYSW4VqxCyT9EwlW074JFZNpzd-zsxMCcjs3t0b2OzBHvWVHnICmIGUgd2amAw/s1600-h/100_0137.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265659133576636802" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 400px; height: 300px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1-ObRn5YqTm7uaXGJJIUQ-GawsfQorIn7halPPzJr7YDo6_H-MusJ7VbUHZe7XfadsKatzNwMfZ7g9PYSW4VqxCyT9EwlW074JFZNpzd-zsxMCcjs3t0b2OzBHvWVHnICmIGUgd2amAw/s400/100_0137.JPG" border="0" /></a> warm latin american welcomes again !<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwhfPsxgPCcspZGWuEdmHmJM09QvLWoJ7TGJFYh73SKqqA-rG3uhkWjkSuhy_EDfNt0mEXhuEjdYW8uYN1R7ifywqW-5pwLTEjppSk9ohQavYmOVSZkOlFpRLeftl89VLv6lnCiT9dA2k/s1600-h/100_0134.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265659126013840674" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 400px; height: 106px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwhfPsxgPCcspZGWuEdmHmJM09QvLWoJ7TGJFYh73SKqqA-rG3uhkWjkSuhy_EDfNt0mEXhuEjdYW8uYN1R7ifywqW-5pwLTEjppSk9ohQavYmOVSZkOlFpRLeftl89VLv6lnCiT9dA2k/s400/100_0134.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Quito. a heavy mass of wonderfulness<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0jFTgjTI2Jo-m2RprZRKyqCCU9iHTqDtaN3tYsTuIJ_Nk8mZN-X65SkWVFIUEllT1UoA2UZFV7wMrDD6_yZa-gr7lFJBRkH-k321HPNlxTAWY3LkI4q6ehMG4O2Lx8KLKCaOotXpB9ZE/s1600-h/100_0129.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265657920569202226" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 400px; height: 300px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0jFTgjTI2Jo-m2RprZRKyqCCU9iHTqDtaN3tYsTuIJ_Nk8mZN-X65SkWVFIUEllT1UoA2UZFV7wMrDD6_yZa-gr7lFJBRkH-k321HPNlxTAWY3LkI4q6ehMG4O2Lx8KLKCaOotXpB9ZE/s400/100_0129.JPG" border="0" /></a> Gustavo and patricio. Aon Quito. Top blokes. no end of help to the FXP.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3wDBWvnZ2V1XKgkgqrgDF2A_MiDyNvMjlhNJVq8fbwuw3VkCpWV15hWuqzTwJ5XSY_nCVq1ZqonA2lrJEJ-HDzBK1JZvLSrZjM1cHwSK1ykwykqC9bjOD0zFyyxP2x0OnSngcserFfdU/s1600-h/100_0131.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265657914772924834" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 400px; height: 300px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3wDBWvnZ2V1XKgkgqrgDF2A_MiDyNvMjlhNJVq8fbwuw3VkCpWV15hWuqzTwJ5XSY_nCVq1ZqonA2lrJEJ-HDzBK1JZvLSrZjM1cHwSK1ykwykqC9bjOD0zFyyxP2x0OnSngcserFfdU/s400/100_0131.JPG" border="0" /></a> Aon quito<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhx9bRW52ZtWP-xaGvTXKXscMhr2JHrL6rie9wLz4auGKDVmPM_6jbn9wqHw4dMKV1vXe5yRLpeXKMCSD8nJQiZuwPy1hbRnjHoiTR-n5hIkgY74MgnNVmdAoxLl1ElM4lALzBsxAhO3k/s1600-h/100_0133.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265657908943912498" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 400px; height: 300px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhx9bRW52ZtWP-xaGvTXKXscMhr2JHrL6rie9wLz4auGKDVmPM_6jbn9wqHw4dMKV1vXe5yRLpeXKMCSD8nJQiZuwPy1hbRnjHoiTR-n5hIkgY74MgnNVmdAoxLl1ElM4lALzBsxAhO3k/s400/100_0133.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Diana and patricio interviewing me, from the Aon office<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR6x9xrtaa2r9ncBLnBUI_lEN7x761zkknQ-cA3_NkB5UdG10q55S3UV-dlj_RMshIvOtlxuFMqpptVUN5Rw39QiwdQlYpwUJdlrChAnhgTuTQgGP8pUBhWB0JjIQB0w-wrfC0SmsGJP0/s1600-h/100_0135.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265657907698373266" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 400px; height: 300px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR6x9xrtaa2r9ncBLnBUI_lEN7x761zkknQ-cA3_NkB5UdG10q55S3UV-dlj_RMshIvOtlxuFMqpptVUN5Rw39QiwdQlYpwUJdlrChAnhgTuTQgGP8pUBhWB0JjIQB0w-wrfC0SmsGJP0/s400/100_0135.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Aon employees hard at it.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTBzgjULZRj0AysUqIEOpOJrN6ujSFnMJs4Ngsgbdfi78iqgwsiJw61PAK6AUSpJTNLLY1wccS7H4HpQnLdaxDmaU9prATFQ5Rxq8DVX58psCKa08tju9vgduw4O76rWQDL9fozQnyyzQ/s1600-h/100_0140.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265657903038464994" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 300px; height: 400px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTBzgjULZRj0AysUqIEOpOJrN6ujSFnMJs4Ngsgbdfi78iqgwsiJw61PAK6AUSpJTNLLY1wccS7H4HpQnLdaxDmaU9prATFQ5Rxq8DVX58psCKa08tju9vgduw4O76rWQDL9fozQnyyzQ/s400/100_0140.JPG" border="0" /></a> the aon building<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3949021732548206585.post-40002443122017751612008-11-01T13:22:00.009+00:002008-11-05T03:16:36.207+00:00Colombia - It really is dream land<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijdRIAKk8egrKFsbIUSuDLdnBqToNsZmjZBXESw7LpBaUn9Q3nmtJFSVd8ikZdusZyurTQGc_C0n_M-p_tO_CIm3GJOWs6HGWSfMQhZSUIoAKTfv6Em60t3fV1WorwOJHTrrGYzEqSGNw/s1600-h/100_0049.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5263693419460712738" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijdRIAKk8egrKFsbIUSuDLdnBqToNsZmjZBXESw7LpBaUn9Q3nmtJFSVd8ikZdusZyurTQGc_C0n_M-p_tO_CIm3GJOWs6HGWSfMQhZSUIoAKTfv6Em60t3fV1WorwOJHTrrGYzEqSGNw/s400/100_0049.JPG" border="0" /></a> Arauca<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjikanz-X0akgPdPysg5c7iR0zknQUskYZU7dVu6uve4TYfzW5WDBA5n2Ccyl8HEERvUsK_GL9Y4eb1mgDj80XMdZyly5HHj83TYMEJr5l5dz1jfBjfbfwUDNkYzv307vFNPlyEia-Ygqs/s1600-h/100_0047.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5263693403900469810" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjikanz-X0akgPdPysg5c7iR0zknQUskYZU7dVu6uve4TYfzW5WDBA5n2Ccyl8HEERvUsK_GL9Y4eb1mgDj80XMdZyly5HHj83TYMEJr5l5dz1jfBjfbfwUDNkYzv307vFNPlyEia-Ygqs/s400/100_0047.JPG" border="0" /></a> Risaralda<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw5hXL99nSChWnaWcSZd4Q-CH-xCnTw-aZ9ZOeFwEQDl-gxll0IOKUZqQ_LFbYZ81Mf3DDstw43YpXxtCfPkbD87qVSx2YUreGSwThyDWaT9VwUnphU4qMua6b84A9jDHnDaU0qD53onA/s1600-h/100_0046.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5263693398087917922" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 300px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 400px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw5hXL99nSChWnaWcSZd4Q-CH-xCnTw-aZ9ZOeFwEQDl-gxll0IOKUZqQ_LFbYZ81Mf3DDstw43YpXxtCfPkbD87qVSx2YUreGSwThyDWaT9VwUnphU4qMua6b84A9jDHnDaU0qD53onA/s400/100_0046.JPG" border="0" /></a> Risaralda<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij4_VedE60GDKE8htY5E-S2vWJn4jZxol8SQs_yYozf24wbCLQuXqr4w_Vl6TFkjdMepdAYJVZXVGfMMgLvlG0b5WTD0WU_PDoYtq5123c4kBIXVzGU4R8hiuHtVbboU5ShGdzhWytAfg/s1600-h/100_0045.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5263693385908795970" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij4_VedE60GDKE8htY5E-S2vWJn4jZxol8SQs_yYozf24wbCLQuXqr4w_Vl6TFkjdMepdAYJVZXVGfMMgLvlG0b5WTD0WU_PDoYtq5123c4kBIXVzGU4R8hiuHtVbboU5ShGdzhWytAfg/s400/100_0045.JPG" border="0" /></a> risaralda<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDLuUTP7SuAZ3GD0vp6seUsaSvtUsT5h4h-fTu0ugAlBQB23ohmkYwylMeUglQKkKbrEIyxnvIP0SN598o6b6oGzsqfCweFyhNbGGSSDPGAUTIrlW7vsSe6bzOOvwBBdIWJNZRu5uZox8/s1600-h/100_0011.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5263683080250928514" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDLuUTP7SuAZ3GD0vp6seUsaSvtUsT5h4h-fTu0ugAlBQB23ohmkYwylMeUglQKkKbrEIyxnvIP0SN598o6b6oGzsqfCweFyhNbGGSSDPGAUTIrlW7vsSe6bzOOvwBBdIWJNZRu5uZox8/s400/100_0011.JPG" border="0" /></a> Santa Barbara - Colombia.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaL3A9yD-8JDm8CDeNzYsO-4NOcXvnBBvwi-HrNhOMyHo13ATshrs38V-6OGMOGJPZdIPnBjsJzlHYCoGzlMPan2OpI94y5jq-VdkF17JLNjIfJz36_6I33EBFVk0NNj2h-jHS8nkRY50/s1600-h/100_0010.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5263683071312826802" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaL3A9yD-8JDm8CDeNzYsO-4NOcXvnBBvwi-HrNhOMyHo13ATshrs38V-6OGMOGJPZdIPnBjsJzlHYCoGzlMPan2OpI94y5jq-VdkF17JLNjIfJz36_6I33EBFVk0NNj2h-jHS8nkRY50/s400/100_0010.JPG" border="0" /></a> Santa Barbara - Colombia<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg51ng1ERJ7YYIyt0LnZFpki3jnxMxdgIpugexYR8aJ4jjbHBiDj-1bjmZr73qPmdTxxgBFTl2p6uusxF_zsq7iwkiPABTsq56Nz_jX64k0EEYlQy_kMKyocqOpetOsvqvSAhy1ojTu5R8/s1600-h/100_0008.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5263683070393982370" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg51ng1ERJ7YYIyt0LnZFpki3jnxMxdgIpugexYR8aJ4jjbHBiDj-1bjmZr73qPmdTxxgBFTl2p6uusxF_zsq7iwkiPABTsq56Nz_jX64k0EEYlQy_kMKyocqOpetOsvqvSAhy1ojTu5R8/s400/100_0008.JPG" border="0" /></a> Paul and his Casa Kiwi Gang. Medellin Colombia. The perfect Hostel. Bikers get discount and paul is no end of help.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmO1xoru8VqL5jNTDR0rKKzaXFuIGMpmz8bC7WI_819z7qqo3st73vVABx8ygD9J13DkbYhUzffy8IICBdlhBsU3xsWZP0rO97qwBPiZWQ0WWZSxsthaUbADBDC8mXgZ5qrqkNQDliiXQ/s1600-h/100_0014.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5263683063967484514" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmO1xoru8VqL5jNTDR0rKKzaXFuIGMpmz8bC7WI_819z7qqo3st73vVABx8ygD9J13DkbYhUzffy8IICBdlhBsU3xsWZP0rO97qwBPiZWQ0WWZSxsthaUbADBDC8mXgZ5qrqkNQDliiXQ/s400/100_0014.JPG" border="0" /></a>Santa Barabara. The town is built on top of a razor sharp mountain.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwsoanpdJdHRD4CWej12V-xax04YTg_swKiKDa0F8ep2rOpqL4CSqVMO5CFCCDe0zZiVRWO0Bdqsi0prS09vj3ev_SWVMAutkGrg9YxycVIsvkiuJK-UIrPMGYO9ptOdzBTBOiR2Oo_Rk/s1600-h/100_0016.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5263682197890228530" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 300px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 400px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwsoanpdJdHRD4CWej12V-xax04YTg_swKiKDa0F8ep2rOpqL4CSqVMO5CFCCDe0zZiVRWO0Bdqsi0prS09vj3ev_SWVMAutkGrg9YxycVIsvkiuJK-UIrPMGYO9ptOdzBTBOiR2Oo_Rk/s400/100_0016.JPG" border="0" /></a>nanas<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi65gHDET-kR-qsG8rxhMlVbU-iQqFw28618vgqDKaAoK1pvgli0YTp9GoJz_LQGklOfZRZ4eF0SJ2PEMjsfn8zTJ6YMx6EzfY8KvoP0VSe2w8wvQoX3IIA_Q9Z5jczjNVDRyaJr0VW6IY/s1600-h/100_0017.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5263682185324838146" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 300px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 400px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi65gHDET-kR-qsG8rxhMlVbU-iQqFw28618vgqDKaAoK1pvgli0YTp9GoJz_LQGklOfZRZ4eF0SJ2PEMjsfn8zTJ6YMx6EzfY8KvoP0VSe2w8wvQoX3IIA_Q9Z5jczjNVDRyaJr0VW6IY/s400/100_0017.JPG" border="0" /></a> Coffee bush<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-mkUOEKp3DiFofp-JfFJOj0ugq3Le4KsDNLabDBUr-QtnrW6UkhautWI66T3oQ44SdEDqG891qLpmpXsPTTQfy53qtBm6RmbH7d63YocowC1X47TBHSIcUzPXcMbO0JbYVvMPZsKEXp8/s1600-h/100_0019.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5263682180070783042" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-mkUOEKp3DiFofp-JfFJOj0ugq3Le4KsDNLabDBUr-QtnrW6UkhautWI66T3oQ44SdEDqG891qLpmpXsPTTQfy53qtBm6RmbH7d63YocowC1X47TBHSIcUzPXcMbO0JbYVvMPZsKEXp8/s400/100_0019.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX1PVyy5SXqglBnGBqfz3jUeoQ9f9xSxAEp5nRfG6c_4zBTBj-TYDEA1sq5MoBrjbyEsBDvh8jle7GTSEHxaRG1rxnFS4KMAZZDWoeY5GHtbErAHffuaDrJib4FaVfrRaNFbNhfRFZNjQ/s1600-h/100_0021.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5263682167156336178" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX1PVyy5SXqglBnGBqfz3jUeoQ9f9xSxAEp5nRfG6c_4zBTBj-TYDEA1sq5MoBrjbyEsBDvh8jle7GTSEHxaRG1rxnFS4KMAZZDWoeY5GHtbErAHffuaDrJib4FaVfrRaNFbNhfRFZNjQ/s400/100_0021.JPG" border="0" /></a> Post landslide<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkPeR72gH7n3WvMxSnuPH02wTzxqZiKgW93g0i7KFozDBvknNDDidBQFpKP_rUrJ8T2IwwMPXuS04d7A0862oBdb4B9316Im6hVNMNiyw37UzFnyuzgAQ4ANj8jppR2kgErSh6N0q6kkE/s1600-h/100_0022.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5263682148358039970" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkPeR72gH7n3WvMxSnuPH02wTzxqZiKgW93g0i7KFozDBvknNDDidBQFpKP_rUrJ8T2IwwMPXuS04d7A0862oBdb4B9316Im6hVNMNiyw37UzFnyuzgAQ4ANj8jppR2kgErSh6N0q6kkE/s400/100_0022.JPG" border="0" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJq96zzxp-ZDZjoI5ZXEh6rrPefx-I8ybPIdiUCrZR5gOAIdyxnINFxYSSwdIM_s-5fxLeaG4Wm2vmJGgbQJ0Ya6OBu1pk6E7jdRM97yLIYK-tLXMdemWgCYdqrrjIlGjcVSz_vy2ORm8/s1600-h/100_0024.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5263681407325550482" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJq96zzxp-ZDZjoI5ZXEh6rrPefx-I8ybPIdiUCrZR5gOAIdyxnINFxYSSwdIM_s-5fxLeaG4Wm2vmJGgbQJ0Ya6OBu1pk6E7jdRM97yLIYK-tLXMdemWgCYdqrrjIlGjcVSz_vy2ORm8/s400/100_0024.JPG" border="0" /></a>This great family i had the pleasure to meet and ride with . 3 up and fast.<br /><div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUClj3jxmTA1SCZvGMIGQfK_13YmpMR13P7bb7xt1NOMTXLnHJHDK9ipuDiL09IxpYyKo0Af_OQox92JFBxID-fiQbnCJlIXk5VM-PaY6uI_WNEeAbV26JPA9Q3SMHKoJcO-JtgEINWN4/s1600-h/100_0025.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5263681398377307570" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUClj3jxmTA1SCZvGMIGQfK_13YmpMR13P7bb7xt1NOMTXLnHJHDK9ipuDiL09IxpYyKo0Af_OQox92JFBxID-fiQbnCJlIXk5VM-PaY6uI_WNEeAbV26JPA9Q3SMHKoJcO-JtgEINWN4/s400/100_0025.JPG" border="0" /></a> oops again<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjofA9BmLUU3oz5FNtffOPMflt1BfVU6jq8QGXFbqMABJh0a21B9woshouug_Y7bDpkjrAJ3Tuhq0P9xryKx_JnJnwWPPIXNGGd7TJC_urOlu3Cdl9L0LxSUyshOWe9I7PwDerWarx3Wbw/s1600-h/100_0026.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5263681388569093458" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjofA9BmLUU3oz5FNtffOPMflt1BfVU6jq8QGXFbqMABJh0a21B9woshouug_Y7bDpkjrAJ3Tuhq0P9xryKx_JnJnwWPPIXNGGd7TJC_urOlu3Cdl9L0LxSUyshOWe9I7PwDerWarx3Wbw/s400/100_0026.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRXuTDZam0YEpg02zEG0PeS1bHPemp9FFCwzuOM3Yg3LxKAcocRnMDL8KQNPXNWVy0rCHyuJroiwpeP1f_E3lS9U_qx7WgNn2lMhqYIdqYDdAYivmweu-hjYNieuJcW3X9w36fLX_rYIY/s1600-h/100_0027.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5263681380471160066" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRXuTDZam0YEpg02zEG0PeS1bHPemp9FFCwzuOM3Yg3LxKAcocRnMDL8KQNPXNWVy0rCHyuJroiwpeP1f_E3lS9U_qx7WgNn2lMhqYIdqYDdAYivmweu-hjYNieuJcW3X9w36fLX_rYIY/s400/100_0027.JPG" border="0" /></a> Jose. More pleasures riding with new mates. Supia Colombia<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9vQqA_HukRCA42MYuZeoNIK4FC7WBq_OLO9fijYZSEcS34sPfwTaRoFtUmm2kXKa8nZcC4usMFT8RmRD3GnU-LMPnTPSPJ6tNb6N65qaR7lxFEPiovhFMtXOZJ6Pflj4lRC1GFJQ5uGk/s1600-h/100_0042.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5263680510949375618" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9vQqA_HukRCA42MYuZeoNIK4FC7WBq_OLO9fijYZSEcS34sPfwTaRoFtUmm2kXKa8nZcC4usMFT8RmRD3GnU-LMPnTPSPJ6tNb6N65qaR7lxFEPiovhFMtXOZJ6Pflj4lRC1GFJQ5uGk/s400/100_0042.JPG" border="0" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ17VEvAICg0R8foQ4F3N1Aijg-4cprHkEg1nVR9TUTvGYubyEXUfZ5LUWLTwLeIdPtuiAfcmt4GnBYZXKznKaweRaz2zVHRAhvhaPctm7on4zx0fEocGFfxbxKOioDILox5z27sAl5rI/s1600-h/100_0051.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5263679757866569410" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ17VEvAICg0R8foQ4F3N1Aijg-4cprHkEg1nVR9TUTvGYubyEXUfZ5LUWLTwLeIdPtuiAfcmt4GnBYZXKznKaweRaz2zVHRAhvhaPctm7on4zx0fEocGFfxbxKOioDILox5z27sAl5rI/s400/100_0051.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcHH8FpPQCEre-OBLhoQW3APcL65Dl0KAdG4tweS4xJ1v4T3BM-qTVhXVpJoT1wZBErwDnFGie_e6w0onYpwSwXILOiXokX4QN9VgZfAQURD3KHNduJz1e-kGBTdfdPtCtuM14h2fUevY/s1600-h/100_0053.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5263679752316476178" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcHH8FpPQCEre-OBLhoQW3APcL65Dl0KAdG4tweS4xJ1v4T3BM-qTVhXVpJoT1wZBErwDnFGie_e6w0onYpwSwXILOiXokX4QN9VgZfAQURD3KHNduJz1e-kGBTdfdPtCtuM14h2fUevY/s400/100_0053.JPG" border="0" /></a>Met this bunch of kids in santa rosa near pereira. intelligent and fun. they were all ears about FXS<br /><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRzKTxXjqxFkN1JxWz7iCdKcXeZbTWfPq_gW9ByQ-hM7IrNtqmJcFqyXJDgkYsFCX_R5px0xRbXnGPuiE6bMHT24PJFZXLkpONv_frObNLcZUD7rfho2q379CBBn3_eT9Jucz3O8iq7Mc/s1600-h/100_0055.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5263679740360308898" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 300px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 400px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRzKTxXjqxFkN1JxWz7iCdKcXeZbTWfPq_gW9ByQ-hM7IrNtqmJcFqyXJDgkYsFCX_R5px0xRbXnGPuiE6bMHT24PJFZXLkpONv_frObNLcZUD7rfho2q379CBBn3_eT9Jucz3O8iq7Mc/s400/100_0055.JPG" border="0" /></a> Pinapples definatly taste better here !<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcf4EhkkxUnj3rNJcb7Ab772yz6UAWtjX9Ct5pQHLCpQxghlrShfBHDqfImynVkHNXucy4l40GvSd_YEOQ_78cEb8yl7_MvqW9D9wiIje036TrEO_Uqu3_r26YTnOQZgwE4YbRGHlawZI/s1600-h/100_0056.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5263679729099973938" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcf4EhkkxUnj3rNJcb7Ab772yz6UAWtjX9Ct5pQHLCpQxghlrShfBHDqfImynVkHNXucy4l40GvSd_YEOQ_78cEb8yl7_MvqW9D9wiIje036TrEO_Uqu3_r26YTnOQZgwE4YbRGHlawZI/s400/100_0056.JPG" border="0" /></a> Popayan<br /><br />With the fantastic help of Peter Sohm, Alvaro Uribe and the Aon Office in Medellin, we had an interview and publication in th eColombia newspaper, EL COLOMBIANO. Click to read the online article. I could never thank these amazing people enough !<a href="http://www.elcolombiano.com/BancoConocimiento/D/de_alaska_a_tierra_del_fuego_ruge_la_moto_de_simon/de_alaska_a_tierra_del_fuego_ruge_la_moto_de_simon.asp?CodSeccion=9">http://www.elcolombiano.com/BancoConocimiento/D/de_alaska_a_tierra_del_fuego_ruge_la_moto_de_simon/de_alaska_a_tierra_del_fuego_ruge_la_moto_de_simon.asp?CodSeccion=9</a><br /><div>.</div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3949021732548206585.post-47428537309388452642008-10-28T14:40:00.014+00:002008-10-29T01:51:18.903+00:00medellin<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx7sF8oS10whx69P1KIeQyT0XYAiFdf3fNmfWumXcriJf1DzZ1TCFRqUEduu8XK2aRoU5P-xBeI9JPgnwa-51o92aZCLi2g3yQ5uTMDRaBZu62ufb4wKIu3whl8bLakonqG2nEnIzd91g/s1600-h/100_0001.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5262223680607031074" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx7sF8oS10whx69P1KIeQyT0XYAiFdf3fNmfWumXcriJf1DzZ1TCFRqUEduu8XK2aRoU5P-xBeI9JPgnwa-51o92aZCLi2g3yQ5uTMDRaBZu62ufb4wKIu3whl8bLakonqG2nEnIzd91g/s400/100_0001.JPG" border="0" /></a> Kind of cow head piggy face teddy bear flower. colombia<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy9Q9x4LPFWu3cLtItppUmka9rEWNfPaLoV7b-GDma9rzXFINQF8gpQWCd2ERt2pSxegiiZ3c_haIhg0M54SGX195XHwv_ft4vtk-I3ADHxReAr1B54_iE54KtBH2f_A-967o7cTZ4ClA/s1600-h/101_0070.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5262222211337945186" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 106px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy9Q9x4LPFWu3cLtItppUmka9rEWNfPaLoV7b-GDma9rzXFINQF8gpQWCd2ERt2pSxegiiZ3c_haIhg0M54SGX195XHwv_ft4vtk-I3ADHxReAr1B54_iE54KtBH2f_A-967o7cTZ4ClA/s400/101_0070.JPG" border="0" /></a> After a great feed along side the truckers the night before i wasnt desiring grub on this cool almost cold 8am morning. the mist was still clinging to the hills, the sun light hazy visible in that way that reasures she will be at full glow later in the day. As i am loading the bike a bloke with a 250 crossers is doing the same. a man with a hard face. i dont stare to much. he comes over with that hard face and bleets on about my bike and his bike, that im sure of. then jumps on his and flys off spinning the rear end 180 degrees , throwing up dirt and stones all over me. oh well, i smile thinking ill shatter his ego later down some long straight, my 650 will eat him up. not that theres anything great about roasting someone on a straight, maybe around some mountain hairpin has more skills showing offness... with all that nonsense forgotten after 5 miles my bike starts smoking from all over. the engine is coughing up , even the right hand hand guard looks like its smoking. my right leg is covered in oil, then i notice everything is covered in oil, arghhhhhhh. i stop and see that i have lost the engine oil cap. the only morning i didnt check its tightness since alaska ! all coz some prat got jealous and distracted me. Lucky for me though i had stopped by one of those small tiendas that sell crisps and water that you find every few miles with not much else around for ages. Im covered in oil and my only idea is to maybe stick an old t-shirt where the cap should be. I ask the pretty girl serving the tienda if she has tissues for me. she has and she has 2 brothers with a motorcyle as it happens. Jairo and yorsman. they look like they are in their early 20s. Yorsman jumps on his bike without a word and disapears in the direction i have just came from. Jairo speaks better english than my spanish. he says that yorsman is off looking for the cap along the road side following my trail of lost oil. Jairo stares at the bike saying there is a town a few miles off rural zone silence with the odd mnnnnnmmaaaaaa from a cow. half hour later yorsman is back with no smile. didnt find the cap. he rides off again to the near town. Jairo tells me hes off to medellin also today and that i can ride with him. an hour later yorsman returns without a smile again . im not smiling much at this point either. just groaning... the boys disapear into their tienda and return 10 mins later with a tube of solid wood, carved. they measure the diameter of the wood to the hole where the cap should be in the engine. im thinking nah, chips will get mangled in the engine and thats the trip spent. it works. the wood is screwed into the engine and its solid ! perfection, genius ! the wood doesnt budge. and to top off the kindness and time these 2 boys have given up what they was doing for me they rode around showing me the back rural parts of the region. Antioquia a queen of hearts part of the world. towns and hills i would never have seen. serenity everywhere. After another 4 hours we are riding around the mountain roads, dodging on coming trucks and trying not to slide off the edge. these boys are fast, even twoz up on a 125. they jsut miss an oncoming truck , ooooooooooohhhh that was very close. we all laugh about it in that phew you got away with that one mate this time, kind of motorcyclists way. Medellin sits in the belly of a vast valley. buildings crawl up the westside and east side of the valley. down the middle is the main centro sections. i have never seen a city like it. Its rush hour madness.the boys lead me to a bike shop they know. anothe rcolombian calle filled with just bike shops. colombia loves her motocecletas. Im given a free cap, its probably not worth more than 5 quid , but isnt the point !. its the correct kawasaki klr cap, what a relief. im gonna keep that piece of wood for ever though. the shop is named auteco. cra 50 no.37 -15,,,, email:dismedellin@une.net.co.... if you are in town and need bike help, go see these generous knowledgable people... we say goodbye. i will never forget these 2. jairo and yorsman. thank you so much !! I eventually found my medellin hostel, after one of the mechanics from auteco showed me through the rush hour darkness where it was, more unconditional kindness. the casa kiwi. owned by paul from the states. a rider who rode through colombia 6 years ago and decided to stay. the casa is perfect. full of great new friends. pauls gives a discount to motorcyclists. another gaff thats gonna be hard to leave.... im starting to understand why some people travel through this country and end up staying....... Medellin has an Aon office. A few months before i left the UK i had been put in contact with a chap named peter who is colombian but worked for Aon in London for 2 years. After one emial to him , peter was well up for helping me in anyway once i got here. I call pete, he wants to meet. we meet. he takes me in his car up the winding east side of the city valley to a beautiful spot overlooking the great city. a restuaurant.he orders some classic colombian grub and agua ardeiente, fire water.... a large plater comes out topped with chorizo, morsilla ( black pudding mixed with rice), chicharon ( large crispy pork), arepa ( soft tasty corn bread). empanadas. mincey stuff in crispy corn pastry ( pastyish). i am in love with empanadas. a salad, avacados , tomatos, coconut all chopped and sliced, topped in lime and salt, peter generously pays for all.... he tells me he has talked to the Aon medellin people and they are looking forward to meeting me. they are even trying to get contact with the cities medias. Wow , again all this genuine colombian unconditional help. peter is great company. hes a handglider. he jumps off mountains with only a small triangular frame, a canvas above and alot of skill and braveness. can handgliding be topped with any other activity ? he tells me of life in past colombia. it doesnt seem possible that people could have lived in that way. pablo escobar used to run the town with his narco tactics and fear mungering. pretending to be robin hood. You really couldnt walk around at night. bombs relentless, fathers desapearing in the night. guns everywhere. those days are gone. colombia is safe now. it will grow into a global treasure of a tourist spot. i only hope it doesnt spoil. peter has given the Aon people my hostel number. I get a call from Alvaro. he has great english and we meet . again i am treated generously to the meal. stake in a cherry type delicious sausce, chips, salad and pomegranate drinks. mmmmmmmm ! Alvaro is a very perceptive guy. he has lived in europe for a few years, but decided to settle in his home town. who can ever blame him ! after the meal he takes me to the office, a short stroll through a medellin park filled with unusual trees and plants. Alvaro tells me of medellin history and its people. Again stuff i wouldnt have known on my own. At the office i am greated with smiles and much interest .there are 50 employees here. Aon medellin deal with health and damages. personal and nusiness health which is law. damages in construction paublic liability and transport over land and seas. Alvaro has brilliantly sorted out a meeting with a medellin newspaper in the morning and he has kindly written an article about the Fragile X pedition, to all aon employees in colombia. they have offices is bogota, cali, cartagena and bucarramanga. fantastic ! .. i have to mention this fruitcake i met here in the casa kiwi. Tod from kentucky. he is driving a car from prudhoe bay down to ushuaia. A toyota 4 runner. right now he is in guayaquil, ecuador waiting for its release, after shipping the car from panama city, with more stress and worries than ever imagined i recon. todd is top man and has some great stories. to find him check out : <a href="http://www.thegetupproject.org/">http://www.thegetupproject.org/</a> Thanks also to gillian from ireland, she has been my PR person since we met, and she taught me how to dance like jim carrey. the casa kiwi another perfect place full of interesting fun people from all over. all with magic stories and adventurous addictions.</div><div></div><div></div><div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiECIWEaElsZoPMssCWb0tCvx7Q6si-vrFcnwfppX_TxpDCQ6kSC4WpZ90IuMawt5XckWVuqAOrPq5XIK6o1e2VfgeGBl90hBVMTRfceWNGPOw6d3hH8nXRBd6L2gWUitQ6bhntGU9TDsE/s1600-h/101_0067.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5262221450921681778" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiECIWEaElsZoPMssCWb0tCvx7Q6si-vrFcnwfppX_TxpDCQ6kSC4WpZ90IuMawt5XckWVuqAOrPq5XIK6o1e2VfgeGBl90hBVMTRfceWNGPOw6d3hH8nXRBd6L2gWUitQ6bhntGU9TDsE/s400/101_0067.JPG" border="0" /></a> the wooden work of genius. an oil change later and a new cap. alls rosy.<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5XPWwdH_XIiP9rxyiT9cui_leYI1zPiJ0_HwnUW9PDZk39rifALDilk_h4Tr7rqt9QKfEWO5m3JvlVZfk-zrJgAyTG-wZbmUtmfP7hkYwVBfNAiRagDk_Xl8hBwf1kMsTooWou4kOaQk/s1600-h/101_0068.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5262221441888612002" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5XPWwdH_XIiP9rxyiT9cui_leYI1zPiJ0_HwnUW9PDZk39rifALDilk_h4Tr7rqt9QKfEWO5m3JvlVZfk-zrJgAyTG-wZbmUtmfP7hkYwVBfNAiRagDk_Xl8hBwf1kMsTooWou4kOaQk/s400/101_0068.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />jairo and yorsman. top colombian geezers !<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJjK7nuGYPdhtgnBMBwX0tUZWdBfjiOt_U8HgNndQsxP9IO_jWvzW2U5JTRNh8QCBTUblnP3xGofXEu9sO4oKYqRhQ4kB67zgdmEdg2XCWGqqklUR4u2K5zvXUBsPJFMNCtSWFlxH2c9E/s1600-h/101_0073.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5262221437628784050" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJjK7nuGYPdhtgnBMBwX0tUZWdBfjiOt_U8HgNndQsxP9IO_jWvzW2U5JTRNh8QCBTUblnP3xGofXEu9sO4oKYqRhQ4kB67zgdmEdg2XCWGqqklUR4u2K5zvXUBsPJFMNCtSWFlxH2c9E/s400/101_0073.JPG" border="0" /></a> the boys at Auteco bike shop medellin. a right laugh and they no what they are doing.</div><div></div><div></div><div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_BK-9SOfn6lIloc1LNvYj1B8aW6sd98WDf2_VAGT2zyDCjpgt06M34CElTDHvrbvCQx2G5deEXOr6etFpv1eIP9f-4D6r3feir-ioLZ89KZVz3bmhBFpmZ3r-tDICBAK7GtEMSO0Mw78/s1600-h/101_0083.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5262221431232139234" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_BK-9SOfn6lIloc1LNvYj1B8aW6sd98WDf2_VAGT2zyDCjpgt06M34CElTDHvrbvCQx2G5deEXOr6etFpv1eIP9f-4D6r3feir-ioLZ89KZVz3bmhBFpmZ3r-tDICBAK7GtEMSO0Mw78/s400/101_0083.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />peter from medellin who worked at aon london in recent years. superb company and very generous in all ways. a fearless flyer of handgliders.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEGLpGltM0bynxq0ngxyrsTih9-H9I0TPK1sr0XuG5zRSkOgwp2llSQx4ycYfx51JiohWDlFwODbJd_hoqfeM2rS9owy8ZQCkE9Ued6mtFoIGGJtSzhriBr5sw9tbqZaNDqabtCEdzXUc/s1600-h/101_0081.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5262221422380818658" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEGLpGltM0bynxq0ngxyrsTih9-H9I0TPK1sr0XuG5zRSkOgwp2llSQx4ycYfx51JiohWDlFwODbJd_hoqfeM2rS9owy8ZQCkE9Ued6mtFoIGGJtSzhriBr5sw9tbqZaNDqabtCEdzXUc/s400/101_0081.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />colombian tapas style lunch<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2UhxC4c_SFT_vdVJ9s87cWzoczwLiLTyiA-lOJAcy5ocN75UCJ5b_hMXsbSG_BikHDTPhYHipMoinKZTqSWzFuGGEodmBC82UxqciFA8hcLTLLFAvYlu37k-_Fe7ZYtFuEqXdAi9r4kU/s1600-h/101_0104.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5262220331384597042" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2UhxC4c_SFT_vdVJ9s87cWzoczwLiLTyiA-lOJAcy5ocN75UCJ5b_hMXsbSG_BikHDTPhYHipMoinKZTqSWzFuGGEodmBC82UxqciFA8hcLTLLFAvYlu37k-_Fe7ZYtFuEqXdAi9r4kU/s400/101_0104.JPG" border="0" /></a> Aon Medellin. Alvaro handing out Fragile x Syndrome info<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhREyJS26PmNTn9Vkd31q0q6qJMVErssNL6BTOrlCe2zNpx0Q6HtDymxxYfpNYN52hIQGeM_qMmKB_5btafb1YGkLctJ34EzJ7VBVJaqf44SOkqNY7JBZxvpbZ75jskdikApNJuwA-l4m4/s1600-h/101_0106.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5262220323931533314" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhREyJS26PmNTn9Vkd31q0q6qJMVErssNL6BTOrlCe2zNpx0Q6HtDymxxYfpNYN52hIQGeM_qMmKB_5btafb1YGkLctJ34EzJ7VBVJaqf44SOkqNY7JBZxvpbZ75jskdikApNJuwA-l4m4/s400/101_0106.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Aon employees<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJroSwFsgArf8cFBP5y29eLkCI1DmW3toIGHkdO7mZl4AcQKdtUQyiQSHJy1nOqYxvaRbb94f_QcGDSv8AyWnfyfUuwWQqurYoEwOnUagp9W94FDnI8XAz1kc8nx9Rh5s9eidJ5v82-zY/s1600-h/101_0108.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5262220321964735282" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJroSwFsgArf8cFBP5y29eLkCI1DmW3toIGHkdO7mZl4AcQKdtUQyiQSHJy1nOqYxvaRbb94f_QcGDSv8AyWnfyfUuwWQqurYoEwOnUagp9W94FDnI8XAz1kc8nx9Rh5s9eidJ5v82-zY/s400/101_0108.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Alvaro and mary the receptionist. aon medellin<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDkzFD0Zz1qdHzL2-oMS6tnbtoTTWp7APkbxldC2uLSaYkH32H-QtWIp7sAEu_1mIqtAARbIgobnQPhXitTnWMq05xFd1z9oHd8FD9MYgagxxVzTxMlT5NbhNOe7Zkhazm6X6bG53TG9A/s1600-h/101_0107.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5262220316795987682" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDkzFD0Zz1qdHzL2-oMS6tnbtoTTWp7APkbxldC2uLSaYkH32H-QtWIp7sAEu_1mIqtAARbIgobnQPhXitTnWMq05xFd1z9oHd8FD9MYgagxxVzTxMlT5NbhNOe7Zkhazm6X6bG53TG9A/s400/101_0107.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />the 1st floor gang. aon medellin<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS9HNbyN0SvJeVXtw84mFgQnaR61HeZK1Crk2uA2L0R_Gei60qpeRmJrILwCaoNjvZeaHJyvGp6G9z9RAAkcPc3CoyR17QIZMWsg2Fn-AEE6e967-3Tp3HZ-JmH415v037i_GrziLLLpM/s1600-h/101_0102.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5262220314443087442" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 300px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 400px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS9HNbyN0SvJeVXtw84mFgQnaR61HeZK1Crk2uA2L0R_Gei60qpeRmJrILwCaoNjvZeaHJyvGp6G9z9RAAkcPc3CoyR17QIZMWsg2Fn-AEE6e967-3Tp3HZ-JmH415v037i_GrziLLLpM/s400/101_0102.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD7X458Npu1SmgUusVQl9Mn4yKGCGF7s0sZMyC8BPdlndbiihMoxg_YoL884nQG5Fqp0BltNUWQJSGYDydkDcWo2z9pCzvDB2NXu4ZTcEV1fO5Cedh0aImxQfkvqpn1HHzT-9Vrdk0PCM/s1600-h/101_0093.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5262219580382040786" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD7X458Npu1SmgUusVQl9Mn4yKGCGF7s0sZMyC8BPdlndbiihMoxg_YoL884nQG5Fqp0BltNUWQJSGYDydkDcWo2z9pCzvDB2NXu4ZTcEV1fO5Cedh0aImxQfkvqpn1HHzT-9Vrdk0PCM/s400/101_0093.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />medellin<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_D2XezVnzUN_m1UKUccON63vo-USPrMSuxIWj_Hb93bYLrKr9X9iG213kGynOlmzIu_Ce0N5oRporeoqZoeNLQ6yZH_e_-NL6dLs7SyXXpki_lu-9mjc70BFiihYf5N2IQDhCSwCiSz4/s1600-h/101_0080.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5262219573946211426" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 102px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_D2XezVnzUN_m1UKUccON63vo-USPrMSuxIWj_Hb93bYLrKr9X9iG213kGynOlmzIu_Ce0N5oRporeoqZoeNLQ6yZH_e_-NL6dLs7SyXXpki_lu-9mjc70BFiihYf5N2IQDhCSwCiSz4/s400/101_0080.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />medellin<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKRTVX7Pn5OdbjtocgipzpeUX0iGVuRV5NVFz6jwl8drcAMgDGLZJxT84hVnxlqVNaPaD8BfU1hBq23KTwaxozS1Mpoj2hGquHuxs2Nkrgm5jtsQb5pTPVpWnZycSqy66dhubftGLTkCE/s1600-h/101_0075.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5262219559388314050" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKRTVX7Pn5OdbjtocgipzpeUX0iGVuRV5NVFz6jwl8drcAMgDGLZJxT84hVnxlqVNaPaD8BfU1hBq23KTwaxozS1Mpoj2hGquHuxs2Nkrgm5jtsQb5pTPVpWnZycSqy66dhubftGLTkCE/s400/101_0075.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />medellin<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb-Gk5EEo-enLD0oRu0O_dPvmN4BG1_w_BnRyjykNtVq7hro78yX0IO2sEZClYZTNCkDzeEloq1_svvoyLahFKCqxLT9EoPAnQzDO14RZjpvp1sFuMrxi-bSKPPwQRvpzkcR1Rt8HF2Jw/s1600-h/101_0101.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5262217579360785138" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb-Gk5EEo-enLD0oRu0O_dPvmN4BG1_w_BnRyjykNtVq7hro78yX0IO2sEZClYZTNCkDzeEloq1_svvoyLahFKCqxLT9EoPAnQzDO14RZjpvp1sFuMrxi-bSKPPwQRvpzkcR1Rt8HF2Jw/s400/101_0101.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />medellin won 2-0. my first latin america footy experience. a fiesta. a very passionate crowd<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEszlueQmLc8Q_m38MnTtFOZ9MlzI2YO4wjgRPf5DK_UQe5Tfhwzsc-syWOHu2yokdpwB_gPpS9XzyEU7cbzrATUgHVYnYwn5GwhhaV5N6bST6TjcjmZKnaK1e6rcmKXQTPB12ukd_nAs/s1600-h/101_0100.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5262217574656466002" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEszlueQmLc8Q_m38MnTtFOZ9MlzI2YO4wjgRPf5DK_UQe5Tfhwzsc-syWOHu2yokdpwB_gPpS9XzyEU7cbzrATUgHVYnYwn5GwhhaV5N6bST6TjcjmZKnaK1e6rcmKXQTPB12ukd_nAs/s400/101_0100.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />medellin fc<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqBZWjMOP_YNRmxltYHNCneYvE710BQd6p7CpGOLM0bw6uIYSUPv_d3Bp2NGmN8ShgJrUi8spXar9qFRFhyOHcrg0v2ZKk_JDDjO5A-0V3cdtLSubi1-tRlGCADneG1hcuAqiIInDeGeU/s1600-h/101_0110.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5262217558701476402" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqBZWjMOP_YNRmxltYHNCneYvE710BQd6p7CpGOLM0bw6uIYSUPv_d3Bp2NGmN8ShgJrUi8spXar9qFRFhyOHcrg0v2ZKk_JDDjO5A-0V3cdtLSubi1-tRlGCADneG1hcuAqiIInDeGeU/s400/101_0110.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />medellin residential<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguu0UQ_ewm070x6eMl2Eb5Mx2BCkisLMgbPEVSW6j-HlJ6wlw5p7B1pkiMU3xIaPoAyMSdwdAVLhbK3BcMzS5cNeLjeZ10DMb8So8S0kj-ObLLKCJe8WjCYTKUQKyzx0aG4yqSXAUJeq0/s1600-h/101_0112.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5262217548912935218" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 105px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguu0UQ_ewm070x6eMl2Eb5Mx2BCkisLMgbPEVSW6j-HlJ6wlw5p7B1pkiMU3xIaPoAyMSdwdAVLhbK3BcMzS5cNeLjeZ10DMb8So8S0kj-ObLLKCJe8WjCYTKUQKyzx0aG4yqSXAUJeq0/s400/101_0112.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />looking west medellin<br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN7J5NZWeVld8nu11PhrozwnIZspNeN6FO0thRoVN2Tn95NVU0wyyj6H1V-8ATi9BYTiJGArScED6nbKFI_sAmSSbV9WUBTFheDDKvBaJ76hJK5U3A_ckIUq0n9nUSYCw08DRg4j4S9Wg/s1600-h/101_0109.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5262217538027561698" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 104px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN7J5NZWeVld8nu11PhrozwnIZspNeN6FO0thRoVN2Tn95NVU0wyyj6H1V-8ATi9BYTiJGArScED6nbKFI_sAmSSbV9WUBTFheDDKvBaJ76hJK5U3A_ckIUq0n9nUSYCw08DRg4j4S9Wg/s400/101_0109.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />looking east medellin<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3949021732548206585.post-68890855911612904292008-10-25T00:07:00.002+01:002008-10-25T01:03:41.727+01:00<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI8MhNrA8yvq-QcH6ieYHSIdzssYhVvM02Z8rqSEtXL7da0QCbGRA9sSJ8Vtp5TLp-y6mhk6nuqghp545RM2JEQ4Y9ZFeLzJrbazuVNPxnGFVtXz4gfXoWexnXn09Py6H9lrMM7FWLMOA/s1600-h/101_0064.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5260861364148229106" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 157px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI8MhNrA8yvq-QcH6ieYHSIdzssYhVvM02Z8rqSEtXL7da0QCbGRA9sSJ8Vtp5TLp-y6mhk6nuqghp545RM2JEQ4Y9ZFeLzJrbazuVNPxnGFVtXz4gfXoWexnXn09Py6H9lrMM7FWLMOA/s400/101_0064.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><div></div><br />I left Cartagena snapping my finger nails clinging to the times had. almost destroying the hotel holidays reception area, with my fat panniers and mild incoherance. Bounced down the Getsmani curb and wisked away south by the relatively mellow traffic. Half mile out finding the calle el mundo de motocicletas. A road seemingly miles long, every shop a motorcycle shop with bikes rasping in and out like an ants nest. Dust and deisel everywhere. Buses arguing with their horns and passangers hanging out of the door ways arms swinging in gestures. Here i found my high viz jacket with number plate glued on the back. number plate on helmet also. apparently not that necessary for tourists but better no hassle safe than sorry. Another half mile the road stops. traffics mayhem and the road works have no suggestion of an alternative direction. Stuff this i say and lay up at a sweet shop drinking water and chatting football to the man utd supporting shop keeper. he has heard of the mighty eagles. im chuffed to bits and wanna give him my palace top, but decide to not to. how else will i educate latin america on real football !! . thoughts of another night back in colourful cartagena, but i would be a laughing stock. ... im off, 10mins later im lost again. not even out of the suburbs. A bloke on a C90 riding one handed. his left hand carrying his work brief case, the laundry , what might be his grand children and the dog , leads me to the alley way i need to get to the southern hills. medellin, medellin i shout at him. his balance on the step through is incredible in the traffic...its not long and im slicing through farmland with perfume aromas, not the typical farmland stench. small villages made up of tiny square houses with one door and windows either side, palm roofs. colourful paintwork always. Flowers, all colours and sizes perfectly taken care of surround these casas. The landscape is vast. tight steep hills blending into each other with no fences. very green. all shades of green under the sun and moving clouds. coes with baggy necks and huge big ears stand tall on the steepness. The rains bring an unneeded solace. im probably the most content i have ever been. this goes on for 4 hours. twighlight comes in purple. I only get as far as Sincelejo 189kms, where i find a cheap flash hotel with a hamburger and the skinniest cerveza bottle ever. Aircon and loads of "MMMMMMMMM" and "AAAAHHHHHHHS" as i sink into a huge soft pillow.....Up and out early . 8a.m. im excited to ride again after scrambled eggs, flat corn and flat arepa. i meet Adrianna the artist. The toy town vastness rolls into the first peaks i have seen since middle mexico. more than just hills. is this the start of the andes ? Colombia has 3 cordilleras running north south. i have found the westerly spine. the breeze through my helmet is cool at last. The road turns into small straights , hairpins and perfect tarmac. 4th gear doesnt get a chance. it gets steep and thin. trucks stand still in the corners, then after the drivers have debated they crawl around the corners. The locals intelligently stroll through the corner traffic standstills selling melon, juices, water, empanadas and im not sure what . I want melon, but as soon as my lid comes off the traffic moves along. no melon for me. The steep dropoffs the side of the road are filled with those tiny houses again. made at low cost i guess. its ironic, the most uncostly housing built, on premier land overlooking grand, huge, incredible words cant find descriptions, vast vallies. probably some of the best scenery on earth. i cant help feeling happy for these people. they must know stuff i will never know. Apparently these lands are owned by officials in offices, but the locals just grab a plot and make a life there. Fantastic !....... its a climb for hours. it drops some then climbs again into the clouds. mysterious mist, where shapes just appear from the white. The road turns nastyish, gravel, potholes large and ramps cambering off the precipises, sliding you in that direction. Up and over the peaks. im down in a small town built into the sides of cliffs, some very steep. all buildings red brick. i gas up and meet victor from medellin. he has a honda 400 crosser that he blast up and over everywhere on. hes facinated with FXS and curious.Purple twilight again hanging over the far off peaks. i cant make medellin tonight. a hospedaje appears at a truck stop. all dusk, dust and deisel . men in wellies. no camo wear and wellies though, thank the universe !. pollo fritas y arroz started with beans big and sauce along side weary stained faced truckers, then im asleep. medellin tomorrow no doubt. its only 80ish kms away. what can go wrong ? i dont wanna ride at night here. JUST because i dont wanna miss anything in and around this landscape. colombia what a suprise it all is !Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3949021732548206585.post-13210611094542964102008-10-21T15:07:00.004+01:002008-10-21T15:49:07.354+01:00stepping back into the spainish main<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4rFUnDBfLxYIbVOiOiMKxNMpWQgu9ajYkx017Vo-Mt5DvJc5kl31RokJYDUKiVBqAcOZdbH0JUcOcS8kB5sH7hDpC8dLTrU8zrFidBWkXi2PF9W5lcymwGwk3oG00Jne5oquUKWEO2tk/s1600-h/101_0046.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5259612730649809634" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4rFUnDBfLxYIbVOiOiMKxNMpWQgu9ajYkx017Vo-Mt5DvJc5kl31RokJYDUKiVBqAcOZdbH0JUcOcS8kB5sH7hDpC8dLTrU8zrFidBWkXi2PF9W5lcymwGwk3oG00Jne5oquUKWEO2tk/s400/101_0046.JPG" border="0" /></a> Cartagena is gorgeous. Its been a week now and i must leave. if i dont today i will never leave. so its a case of type this, breakfast , bank then finding the traffic flow that will wisk me out and south , starting the climb into the Andes. Its incredibly hot and humid here. at night it doesnt change. i need the cool air of the mountains. More heart felt friendships and goodbyes. its becoming a habit now. all dont want leave each others companies, but do and go into the future friendships of the next towns , with the hopes of bumping into each other by chance. Above is a pic of our last night . buddies from the san blas boat. patrick and karen. rolling around the planet unconventionaly, they are an inspiration for doing it ya own way. karina the colombian rascal, who has unwittingly taught me more spanish with our continuous banter than i have learned anywhere. and omer the adventurous israely, with his new shaved head and chin. we havent left each others side for a month, now we must. hes waiting for his girlfriend to arrive then riding south together..... Cartagena, the hubb of the old spanish main. A city that seems like parts of it havent moved along in 400 years. the old fortresses and cannon batteries are everywhere, still guarding the city. buildings, with ornate balconies painted all the colours possible. people of all mixes live together. relentless street hawkers, selling wooden spoons, panamain hats, moody oaklies and ray bans. men with flasks of coffee wander the streets, for 500 peses you get a shot of tasty sugary strong coffee on every pavement. beggers with a limb missing. colombia still has many many land mines all over the fields and hills. police and military all over, cant even count the amount of differences in uniforms. after a week i finaly am legal to ride off now. Insurance is law here. we managed to get some yesterday. all i need is a high vis jacket. in colombia there has been so many motorcycle drive by assasinations that bikers have to have their registrations written on their helmets and on a high viz over jacket. The nights are fun and lively loud. cuban bands blast out the bongos till the early hours. people salsa instead of walk to the next bar. oh well, the next palce, medellin has a top reputation also so maybe its not that hard to leave here. Im glad that i didint realise i went way to quick through central america and blasted through. i have more time down here. this is the continent that will send me into a vast wonder and wandering. bigger everything. more surreal for an englishman than anywhere could be.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaAiaBPnot5qI7mdryEDtsgHMDde48xnpxe4XCxAOAzyW07qObpksWGwh4l4IHxdbVT29cjRigVMkMulgRtQCp53OeeYqN-fooeGaaG3XuAjFyUoTXlj9jIEgyHX0x44ZSlZTHBK7FHLU/s1600-h/101_0018.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5259611996659698706" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaAiaBPnot5qI7mdryEDtsgHMDde48xnpxe4XCxAOAzyW07qObpksWGwh4l4IHxdbVT29cjRigVMkMulgRtQCp53OeeYqN-fooeGaaG3XuAjFyUoTXlj9jIEgyHX0x44ZSlZTHBK7FHLU/s400/101_0018.JPG" border="0" /></a> the gang - cartagena fortress. overlooking the caribbean seas<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglMN5PLLaDbp4dSCTXa5sVkDVoHLOVBSOWpScRK-foDwmboDJu1FCHfz2FGzC946Ew2aUp9X94LpULh2DYUShL07_qix07QzjNWYij9MQUyKeiTfdAojYUTq53uPiHCRvM21DRYEp6hhk/s1600-h/101_0003.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5259612007056230498" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglMN5PLLaDbp4dSCTXa5sVkDVoHLOVBSOWpScRK-foDwmboDJu1FCHfz2FGzC946Ew2aUp9X94LpULh2DYUShL07_qix07QzjNWYij9MQUyKeiTfdAojYUTq53uPiHCRvM21DRYEp6hhk/s400/101_0003.JPG" border="0" /></a> getsemani. old, ruined and wonderful. the forgotten zone of cartagena<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikeZ8su8Nv02ylfUQuYlxAjWHvQ0SuZFzpdSQeZ7UxQSqT4gbnPFHZxKd3rt8GvI95plgSfKl8wiwQc18PPPeaowHCTh5JmEo8ydPoNIO5dHlGRfL6m0yYtBn2MNDz5CiaPFgliObTPHA/s1600-h/101_0004.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5259612008126832770" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikeZ8su8Nv02ylfUQuYlxAjWHvQ0SuZFzpdSQeZ7UxQSqT4gbnPFHZxKd3rt8GvI95plgSfKl8wiwQc18PPPeaowHCTh5JmEo8ydPoNIO5dHlGRfL6m0yYtBn2MNDz5CiaPFgliObTPHA/s400/101_0004.JPG" border="0" /></a> getsemani cartagena<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnawIblZi98QKoFycswjMXIBOn8RCd1ymXsh2gLYmyfEsAdUqGhY3LN3F8o-npOHBbxFWyGefOA5FefcRcqLzUitV6Hd7hsEQweURg8ShQfmnQi5ZZugXq2M9pfjaOHKbU-Cuc6qJYyvs/s1600-h/101_0009.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5259612020657330114" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnawIblZi98QKoFycswjMXIBOn8RCd1ymXsh2gLYmyfEsAdUqGhY3LN3F8o-npOHBbxFWyGefOA5FefcRcqLzUitV6Hd7hsEQweURg8ShQfmnQi5ZZugXq2M9pfjaOHKbU-Cuc6qJYyvs/s400/101_0009.JPG" border="0" /></a> old town cartagena<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDqQDxHKqpdvQ8LWZJz78QP0xm_tDZvBxu_xl5r0nUH5FR3aZM6S7Dkwi7TPQUF1IBHLYujbTjm9hdXnKxDHUlDJRQozqOM2_fkJan-KkGO3YueY3ZS-uX44-zGYyUlS5Kcr6Gmpv2cSM/s1600-h/101_0013.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5259612026782794386" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDqQDxHKqpdvQ8LWZJz78QP0xm_tDZvBxu_xl5r0nUH5FR3aZM6S7Dkwi7TPQUF1IBHLYujbTjm9hdXnKxDHUlDJRQozqOM2_fkJan-KkGO3YueY3ZS-uX44-zGYyUlS5Kcr6Gmpv2cSM/s400/101_0013.JPG" border="0" /></a> cartagena<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhvigfA-iMOI1uIgl9K2r2obAaamj5PZq0USBBV3L5eyZGEA5F2GZCi5XEgekG2y8aSqcRvnmrzmtecws00LUnx6osvBjGIKrf-e_ruN6sB2dVQy2Ar-2iCHosW6o36On3ee_g1lMfRPs/s1600-h/101_0007.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5259610251294905298" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhvigfA-iMOI1uIgl9K2r2obAaamj5PZq0USBBV3L5eyZGEA5F2GZCi5XEgekG2y8aSqcRvnmrzmtecws00LUnx6osvBjGIKrf-e_ruN6sB2dVQy2Ar-2iCHosW6o36On3ee_g1lMfRPs/s400/101_0007.JPG" border="0" /></a> cartagena<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRHnlLpzd7qeb-Dme46O5PsHbuYkhbzsHDZNpUiZ5Y-xUFyCIKiQ7HURFDGmC71EeCIhRvIA1IRrJToXvls6QZjnuG-bcISGMbvaO8jRPqEUm4LHIWL9fNgoQAlRDjllmby2X7Az7y1bU/s1600-h/101_0014.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5259610258014096498" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRHnlLpzd7qeb-Dme46O5PsHbuYkhbzsHDZNpUiZ5Y-xUFyCIKiQ7HURFDGmC71EeCIhRvIA1IRrJToXvls6QZjnuG-bcISGMbvaO8jRPqEUm4LHIWL9fNgoQAlRDjllmby2X7Az7y1bU/s400/101_0014.JPG" border="0" /></a> developing sides of cartagena<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUrlZPkrD7vp0RGX_heyK0R-Yr9e15799UJbTGNMNNpZsRueAID-MbMtTXX5RSoHWF8E7B8Wf8Fl6ONmWLXp2hOCKxbfnSmpAyVhJT_rKbHLgqjnrIwqQdF-4x6LM1WWEgfusti-sw1dk/s1600-h/101_0015.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5259610264901225154" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUrlZPkrD7vp0RGX_heyK0R-Yr9e15799UJbTGNMNNpZsRueAID-MbMtTXX5RSoHWF8E7B8Wf8Fl6ONmWLXp2hOCKxbfnSmpAyVhJT_rKbHLgqjnrIwqQdF-4x6LM1WWEgfusti-sw1dk/s400/101_0015.JPG" border="0" /></a> as above, with the old town tucked to the left<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdR4sbe4wYKzoA7fZs3RxJWjIlGWFK-q3CnG4QgmI1xe7BWR7N18T-nmAGNqvskPBufM_-zR4a2F70Knd1N8sMz39edH4rhRPD14fhG4OqHATQh5kVzEpxVHtUk1WD2s3b2ANEfU3ze5U/s1600-h/101_0020.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5259610268741442322" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdR4sbe4wYKzoA7fZs3RxJWjIlGWFK-q3CnG4QgmI1xe7BWR7N18T-nmAGNqvskPBufM_-zR4a2F70Knd1N8sMz39edH4rhRPD14fhG4OqHATQh5kVzEpxVHtUk1WD2s3b2ANEfU3ze5U/s400/101_0020.JPG" border="0" /></a> cartagena 400 years ago<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQSdepUBP057-AOZWBhx01CFe7RIhe6ZNRTqifvLS18_Sd6N0M1o7geMxRyI4djWBoWtKmSYK9VIpesUY84QqZgYzhrUo1zqWgapTjVPdeZjgftrLUZPKG2Lh-nLgleQlY-RJXWoqldxY/s1600-h/101_0017.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5259610278611645522" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQSdepUBP057-AOZWBhx01CFe7RIhe6ZNRTqifvLS18_Sd6N0M1o7geMxRyI4djWBoWtKmSYK9VIpesUY84QqZgYzhrUo1zqWgapTjVPdeZjgftrLUZPKG2Lh-nLgleQlY-RJXWoqldxY/s400/101_0017.JPG" border="0" /></a> sitting, ready for plundering enemies<br /><br /><br /><div></div></div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3949021732548206585.post-7636821909077930012008-10-16T16:09:00.009+01:002008-10-18T18:32:15.761+01:00paradise and warming up to ride the gaunletI seem to be starting posts by saying "it was hard to leave". It was hard to leave Panama city. Not physicaly this time, but emotionaly..... Moving from the snoring Hotel Marbella to the casa de carmen was definatly the best thing i could have done. I hardly left the hostel carmen, for 4 days. Omer was staying there and it was alot cheaper than the hotels around. It became a home away from home.people came and went, generaly after a night, but i managed to meet the most wonderful people here, making a great unit of mates to sit up all night with eating pizza and sucking on the local ale. Taric and Hanna, an adventurous english couple , who have been moving around south america for months on end, in the living life to the full fast lane. cassy, an ozzy on her own . on her way to buenos aires to be part of an adventure show, aired over the world. melanie, a german working and living in panama. tzvie another israelie chap who had just sneeked across the border from colombia in a very unconventional way. . PJ the hilarious belgian, in love with latin america, who had us all cracking up all night long !. gayatu the anthropologist studying the northern panamanian indians. Eric the geezer from the baltimore hood, who educated me in the life they lead over there in the shadows of the rich . We all spent the days together sharing experiences and laughing till sun up. I truely miss these people and hope more than most stuff to meet them all again. With everyone gone, omer and i prized our way from panama city to head north to catch the boat to colombia. The panama isthmus is about 60 miles across. It seems pathetic that these 2 massive continents , north and south america , are held together by this small weak seeming piece of land. ..4 hours later, along the most roadworks i have ever seen along one stretch, we were in portabello. Famous over the years, as the place where all the gold and silver the spanish unpolitely took form the incas in peru , bolivia etc, after donkeys and slaves had dragged it all over from the pacific side, was met by fleets from spain to carry it all back to europe. Inevitably a place where other euro rascals thought they would get their share of the riches, by nicking it off the spanish. There are a few moss soaked fortresses still sitting on the hill tops and by the bays around here. Francis drake still layss out there in his lead coffin some way out to sea at portabello. Wrecks are apparently all over the place. Gold is still down there, buryed in time, tin cans and sand. The road turns along the caribbean east towards puerto lindo, the place of boats to colombia. This is an unspoiled road weaving, dipping rollercoasting along side the sea. Villages come and go, filled with african descendents of the first slaves. The road almost falls into the sea at sea level, with palm trees erraticaly, naturaly lining the way. Puerto lindo arrives. no big hotels, fancy doormen, all ammenaties here. Just raw bamboo and brick huts. The Hostel Wunderbar is our new home. Silvia and Guidos place. The place to sort out the right boat east. Our dorm is designed and built by the Kuna Indians of the San Blas islands. Bamboo walls with a dry palm leaves roof, that manages to keep all drops of rain out. This is raw tropics. Its very humid and it rains heavy alot, bringing black clouds and thunder from the loudest drum the universe has. Silvia tells us our captain for the 5 day sail is Leonardo. He has a 47 foot boat called the Zao, that can handle 2 bikes easy on deck. After a bit of research into ways of crossing this region by but, you get to remember captains names. there isnt a whole army of them, only a few handfuls. Leonardo hasnt a good reputation. why, i dont know. Oh well, we say, lets just get on with it, its only 5 days after all. The boat gets delayed another day, coz 2 more passengers havent arrived yet. I dont mind. Eating octopus in a secret sauce by a calm bay in the bright moonlight, earwigging conversations of smuggling, piracy, womanising and all the other naughtyness here, isnt a bad way to exists i recon. Soooooo, here we are, the boats ready. 2 more people have arrived to sail with us. that makes 6 of us and 2 bikes. Deborah and john. karen and patrick. Me and Omer. captain leonardo and his friend and helper Karina, from cartagena. We load the bikes one at a time onto small wooden rowing boats at the bay side to get the bikes to the sail boat , fifty metres off shore. Im nervous. visions of a sea soaked seaweed dripping bike have been haunting me for ages. No need to worry though. the villagers have it all in hand. its been done a hundreed times. We lift the bike into the rowing boat and get over to the sail boat. Leonardo charismaticly instructs the helpers. The bike is roped up around front and back wheels, then winched up onto the sail boat with ease. im relieved large ! Omers bike is next, no problems again. We set sail out of puerto lindo around 10ish a.m....... past a tiny island with posh housing spiralling around it. it turns out julio iglesias used to own this island. he then sold it to a drug lord who ended up getting nicked. its an idealic scene. we sail a mile i think from the coast line heading for 3 days in the san blas island, reputed to be the most paradise like on earth. Leonardo briefs us on behaviour and stuff onboard. its all common sense really. He doesnt seem to be the monster i have read about so far. A man with a natural dry humourous way. Obviously intelligent. We all chat and get on like we have known each other for ages. Im well happy. its an extention of the casa de carmen. more wonderful interesting comical people. Will it last though. we have 5 days on this boat. im sure the quirks in all of us will brake free before cartagena. The sea is calm. the wind is slight. Leonardo turns the motor on. we arrive in the islands. WOW ! this cant be real. small islands of various small sizes are scattered all over the sea. A black storm sits on one of the horizons, no change in darkness from the sky to the sea. The girls bravely dive in. I dive in. we all dive in. The water is like a warm bath. Clear blueness right to the bottom, where coral sits. A small fish tickles my leg, inspiring thoughts of hungrey hammer heads, that no one has mentioned or considered. I keep quite about that. We eat meat in a sauce. drink a few beers and watch the moon beam across the vastness. I keep the ship awake with my rhino snoring. oops ! Omer didnt get a wink coz of it. i had better kip on deck next night. the next 3 days were lazily spent, sailing to another island anchor, with an island which is just a resturant. the sign nailed to a palm tree. Storms came and went generaly around noon. its humid but the ocean soothes that. We are all laughing happy together stil .by this time i know leonardo is a top bloke and the bad comments must have been from uncompromising bad people. He gave up the life of a physicist at CERN in geneva, to raise his daughter on the seas and sand of this part of the world. Karina the colombian helper is a scream, we have verbal battles in broken spanish and english, she calls me a ratta i call her a ratta ! she can drink like no other ! must be the colombian way i think. Patrick buys the rum. how can ya come to these islands and not drink rum, he says ! i agree............ we eat fish......... the last 2 days are spent in open sea until cartegena. its ok. i dont get sick, suprisingly. it all passes very quickly and interestingly lazy. a storms catches us but we pass from one side , through the silent eye, to the other side and out without much grief or panic. Doplins breach in the distance then arrive by our side, showing off and amazing us. Cartagena arrives on the nightime horizon, lighting it all up. Im here at last. Colombia. what does that name bring to your mind ??? 3 days and we have almost sorted out getting the bike stamped in legally. My camera is ruined by the dingy nearly sinking on a row to an islands shore. Stories of the road from cali to popayan being blockaded by angrey indigenious are floating around cartagena. bombs going off. Im told that soldiers in leather boots are fine , but soldiers in wellys are not, get the hell out quick if i manage to find them. Colombia drew with brazil last night in a world cup qualifier in brazil. a great result and great game. patricks birfthday last night. a top night wandering around the old colonial city, to to beautiful. i will say all in the post before riding the gaunlet south.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLwRMqHtSDylANB6gibsXQi6V8ll2sihVITTDZO1r8_O5tZpdlvPtvUTqRX95zKLS8Y3B_7WEOwwcQGPoWDy7P8TSTeuiA9TTUd_uftLc2-zFjYPn7NDzrWVX-Zhytw9exglErAHbwaFE/s1600-h/100_2523.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257774779214228914" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLwRMqHtSDylANB6gibsXQi6V8ll2sihVITTDZO1r8_O5tZpdlvPtvUTqRX95zKLS8Y3B_7WEOwwcQGPoWDy7P8TSTeuiA9TTUd_uftLc2-zFjYPn7NDzrWVX-Zhytw9exglErAHbwaFE/s400/100_2523.JPG" border="0" /></a> Koaliman - san blas<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkhrFIyRg7_EB13oUHPBiN4j1vr3dUxIKfV18Ml1KDPy25lbP8bPVP650vLBkP0IU8DK4_bk9ewqOgB1KIyUNaikIcYgrpk4jG2x9L-WVCfwnX8baaacV3uLgvWyCxMJkJsT1d2gVhtY4/s1600-h/100_2530.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257774786438977522" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkhrFIyRg7_EB13oUHPBiN4j1vr3dUxIKfV18Ml1KDPy25lbP8bPVP650vLBkP0IU8DK4_bk9ewqOgB1KIyUNaikIcYgrpk4jG2x9L-WVCfwnX8baaacV3uLgvWyCxMJkJsT1d2gVhtY4/s400/100_2530.JPG" border="0" /></a> as above pic<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7IuLP_vdYVVvxTLSLviowAqQy4vUlPbFADrjk1ZCxS-uNbr0Wh2fs1n_8F8w3PleOClsaHbwBL4SxY6qi7h-Hcyr58ELb-aqZzvMJHdXFmwU_JYtiEnQGiVD9hyphenhyphenzcGRbjncBUbN-urfI/s1600-h/100_2535.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257774793766050818" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7IuLP_vdYVVvxTLSLviowAqQy4vUlPbFADrjk1ZCxS-uNbr0Wh2fs1n_8F8w3PleOClsaHbwBL4SxY6qi7h-Hcyr58ELb-aqZzvMJHdXFmwU_JYtiEnQGiVD9hyphenhyphenzcGRbjncBUbN-urfI/s400/100_2535.JPG" border="0" /></a> patrick and belly flops<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257775768505492242" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR88JR8RReNm8t7XQ30cnCKTudGvXhS5f6HWRqsBs2ud4idjA_HUFKhDRpx3F2cxxRT3xpuvEWcwyRwOWMaUTQHIptkjSlBA-Syd11AfeqhF6-iQQw9Ub5iMyiMZ6qZwerqPWi34Ar3eU/s400/100_2567.JPG" border="0" /> dolphin friends<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcQFo4s3CnQNoJ0JcGJJe4o8cnYHeWqZbnd0yEJXOv4SI3W79c6UVNzww4Z5-hI_SrbuULvxiCGB-yotOPFO1I2Av47YQwarawZJQoKOMLcQCJ7vYYBXsZENb1Yul2eh4nWr2lJiDbnVA/s1600-h/100_2541.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257774798413013250" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcQFo4s3CnQNoJ0JcGJJe4o8cnYHeWqZbnd0yEJXOv4SI3W79c6UVNzww4Z5-hI_SrbuULvxiCGB-yotOPFO1I2Av47YQwarawZJQoKOMLcQCJ7vYYBXsZENb1Yul2eh4nWr2lJiDbnVA/s400/100_2541.JPG" border="0" /></a> Kaoliman - san blas<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-cKAOzdKpLqhHHXXTlwDA658EMVminkg3R5Rk1bxonBxY9o5WwIn_-l1di2N6-rP6sxvL4EzgC6HzuaJPm1i_t5Qz3v9NU5JMxF3xvO3PsAuf-Xx60TDBukcuW5LfkEF8cBumLxz6H_Q/s1600-h/100_2563.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257774803247621138" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-cKAOzdKpLqhHHXXTlwDA658EMVminkg3R5Rk1bxonBxY9o5WwIn_-l1di2N6-rP6sxvL4EzgC6HzuaJPm1i_t5Qz3v9NU5JMxF3xvO3PsAuf-Xx60TDBukcuW5LfkEF8cBumLxz6H_Q/s400/100_2563.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />another looming storm in the open seas<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjohR5X8o8yAU3KZ9yCVNcCdJQw_6EHqrC4TIfACQ1ljjMjjkvoeiK2b9EeOvp11X3ARuvvXixPpK2EoywOh0PC0m4f2K-hRILQwXlgaJQmFYgkKcuOIQ03gmPHQfgo6sVaOyw6OFA5c7Q/s1600-h/100_2488.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257773540182416514" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjohR5X8o8yAU3KZ9yCVNcCdJQw_6EHqrC4TIfACQ1ljjMjjkvoeiK2b9EeOvp11X3ARuvvXixPpK2EoywOh0PC0m4f2K-hRILQwXlgaJQmFYgkKcuOIQ03gmPHQfgo6sVaOyw6OFA5c7Q/s400/100_2488.JPG" border="0" /></a> desires to be stranded<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtU4IDdfRTdmwsIMFL5mn_8Q5VIzkndOW7y63KgRMo9HZr3K7mzWiL8AlvIKHN9CMOwuV4y4QvDtBNIsneoOb8IgdGKAlf-dIibJogwzW-uvDwW6NI2KCBdWXx-OiGQaIPAnF9YzoGops/s1600-h/100_2497.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257773543812403202" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtU4IDdfRTdmwsIMFL5mn_8Q5VIzkndOW7y63KgRMo9HZr3K7mzWiL8AlvIKHN9CMOwuV4y4QvDtBNIsneoOb8IgdGKAlf-dIibJogwzW-uvDwW6NI2KCBdWXx-OiGQaIPAnF9YzoGops/s400/100_2497.JPG" border="0" /></a> voodoo live in the san blas<br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257772194182276082" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAkggi4Ey2cYI_VZo6hHrlumccbhA9vHuYDOn3ycONv4_9ofTQgd_P5BBwi5LGHI2CpWv0gMAxeqcfSoEH5fdi-A_aPzIgK1lzRNZKsCV5aRr_V3O1KPbragKuETo2X_Pywt04wNz0MDY/s400/100_2449.JPG" border="0" />panama city<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI5zQEn27Dg9hfDUN-G4DvnRX1YBeedh5xhINOCt7-IAG-qNbPfZgHxGzAQHSSdlHTlAcXrb0lB2g-RaWNoZZfJmTv2gbYHQWh09rNo6tS00e6dJKY5MCKrkMNy6ugk2poAVOaiNz5Jro/s1600-h/100_2502.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257773553809161266" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI5zQEn27Dg9hfDUN-G4DvnRX1YBeedh5xhINOCt7-IAG-qNbPfZgHxGzAQHSSdlHTlAcXrb0lB2g-RaWNoZZfJmTv2gbYHQWh09rNo6tS00e6dJKY5MCKrkMNy6ugk2poAVOaiNz5Jro/s400/100_2502.JPG" border="0" /></a> san blas starfish<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUFGca91Lil0ECmlCeM_8w8Ljzg3hXNcIBf2XTuNJT2FlDxvL6Q-KM8XZPO3qzYoa1r1FGTBZHFFrvBoo2cxlar6lg8iqySo0jSxFx30RO_q3mO2PbLiwU85BUh2khfZSITPpuGNP5U2U/s1600-h/100_2507.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257773570507046786" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUFGca91Lil0ECmlCeM_8w8Ljzg3hXNcIBf2XTuNJT2FlDxvL6Q-KM8XZPO3qzYoa1r1FGTBZHFFrvBoo2cxlar6lg8iqySo0jSxFx30RO_q3mO2PbLiwU85BUh2khfZSITPpuGNP5U2U/s400/100_2507.JPG" border="0" /></a> food time on board the Zao<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgepqxAxjb7rSrxsmfcqiDWJacjIVUMn_8sSNTFRulYCG0O5RojB7is7KV5AYkWYdl7IjcZTJWXLHMXIIuc2nH4ySjIUXrowxQHtChHt9bgedg3HfRFKkpEYo6GVqVLTuPYgrcqKobDCvQ/s1600-h/100_2512.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257773575286973346" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgepqxAxjb7rSrxsmfcqiDWJacjIVUMn_8sSNTFRulYCG0O5RojB7is7KV5AYkWYdl7IjcZTJWXLHMXIIuc2nH4ySjIUXrowxQHtChHt9bgedg3HfRFKkpEYo6GVqVLTuPYgrcqKobDCvQ/s400/100_2512.JPG" border="0" /></a> san blas<br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCmakC9VBtpWezgA4Rm9GgQF6f1N20NwcZf98Carfvbx3HNDIsdr1pft2Hu8nslY8Ff7v_waPD4KzBVtGhZgPy29WeB52tblODRHi_AzQyvK2WNfLNdbzgOT1OBRiEIKtINsSSnkyHtnw/s1600-h/100_2460.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257772198186900610" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCmakC9VBtpWezgA4Rm9GgQF6f1N20NwcZf98Carfvbx3HNDIsdr1pft2Hu8nslY8Ff7v_waPD4KzBVtGhZgPy29WeB52tblODRHi_AzQyvK2WNfLNdbzgOT1OBRiEIKtINsSSnkyHtnw/s400/100_2460.JPG" border="0" /></a> Portabello fortress. Francis drakes final resting place.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC6WAPccEkkKEqIEZ71gaVOLpGdT5h2TQ9MWPwI9GGZbcerdJN8mHXoxJTEBJAIkfpwAzz_x5A-9VqQ3YhC0d9m5U7DV5bcffJWLIdrfrOcu5E4-IzxAWoeq8crjxZUnVTfMMpWnN5FFM/s1600-h/100_2469.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257772202107780882" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC6WAPccEkkKEqIEZ71gaVOLpGdT5h2TQ9MWPwI9GGZbcerdJN8mHXoxJTEBJAIkfpwAzz_x5A-9VqQ3YhC0d9m5U7DV5bcffJWLIdrfrOcu5E4-IzxAWoeq8crjxZUnVTfMMpWnN5FFM/s400/100_2469.JPG" border="0" /></a> loading the bikes Puerto lindo - panama<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg80sGG5xXPRuiCs_wrtee-d94PUcffFj2cAGCOjVotU0aRGq8-RMhwJohWAvW6zOMOJ46VoTDU_BwjzHqzsyVDiSKW2Na1hYMcrqiP4e79aBZWWONjYNVkNGbFpOilMVz-aF7WKmgwIbg/s1600-h/100_2474.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257772208753982338" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg80sGG5xXPRuiCs_wrtee-d94PUcffFj2cAGCOjVotU0aRGq8-RMhwJohWAvW6zOMOJ46VoTDU_BwjzHqzsyVDiSKW2Na1hYMcrqiP4e79aBZWWONjYNVkNGbFpOilMVz-aF7WKmgwIbg/s400/100_2474.JPG" border="0" /></a> its all to lazy !<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpzR85FVrhtd9TGRHji3BjrGNM5l0ehGAJNME-3tLc_dTCIVWzzPO59elfspL1AC3u5BQSfQEO1FMcs3KNmbM7-otK8pIXlMRcDUfdJTBOLr-sMchV1wzDAJGAf500BhjryvGtEl42_6U/s1600-h/100_2479.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257772218921850658" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpzR85FVrhtd9TGRHji3BjrGNM5l0ehGAJNME-3tLc_dTCIVWzzPO59elfspL1AC3u5BQSfQEO1FMcs3KNmbM7-otK8pIXlMRcDUfdJTBOLr-sMchV1wzDAJGAf500BhjryvGtEl42_6U/s400/100_2479.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Leonardo and mirra the pup<br /><br /><br /><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257775778763889154" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWHO9qu-v8z0nkkzpivEO_gMzc3PAUJjBCLyZ9sgG8lwvrCt8hvGuQLNYnogw8TVYy7GyrdrRy3B52pBHldMY6IW8mB0iPS2D7yez1rh3wXlhR9wcD8vSvLyK7QE2sCbN7m8tNFbv0pyM/s400/100_2570.JPG" border="0" /></div></div></div></div><br />a stowaway<br /><br /><a onclick="return top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)" href="http://video.google.com/googleplayer.swf?docid=-1492847911073114711&hl=en&fs=true" target="_blank">http://video.google.com/googleplayer.swf?docid=-1492847911073114711&hl=en&fs=true</a> (click to see short footage of the bikes being loaded on and off the sail boat)Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3949021732548206585.post-43886503764384352632008-10-10T03:01:00.004+01:002008-10-10T04:05:07.791+01:00Settled at home while Simon sails the Caribbean<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTJBl-DGwsJb58BeAIZux-INLoZ64e56nbRyrvQAFRBzCW_vnoUYrtdkUJtbtRRulzDTxtV1mhwPWY0q0eKA3N1hr8EoocqXTfiMtsM74xTAnUw1zmp-5tJNk3-t8lLwIUL4J8Rf4QDdA/s1600-h/winter.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTJBl-DGwsJb58BeAIZux-INLoZ64e56nbRyrvQAFRBzCW_vnoUYrtdkUJtbtRRulzDTxtV1mhwPWY0q0eKA3N1hr8EoocqXTfiMtsM74xTAnUw1zmp-5tJNk3-t8lLwIUL4J8Rf4QDdA/s400/winter.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5255343545838401698" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEZ_YekPuPGKDl8Hzjhkmk68gtBPQSPL8uCdgYnAZoXPHQwIEZRKYYPsm_uXMW9SjkWdvAJE-BGd9mbS2pYu_0ZMPMykMdVGtJZsJcf-Vl0fWTk6n85eT4r0BpPoj0_31UrAQHnq0bzlc/s1600-h/Fall.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEZ_YekPuPGKDl8Hzjhkmk68gtBPQSPL8uCdgYnAZoXPHQwIEZRKYYPsm_uXMW9SjkWdvAJE-BGd9mbS2pYu_0ZMPMykMdVGtJZsJcf-Vl0fWTk6n85eT4r0BpPoj0_31UrAQHnq0bzlc/s400/Fall.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5255340228272667410" /></a><div>Two different images then you have been looking at. I arrived back in Leadville 2 weeks ago to see fall has taken hold and winter is knocking at the door. It has been 3 weeks since Si went right and i went left in Tepic, as I have been reading Si's post I have been jonesen for a Latin American fix, but happy to be back.</div><div>I basically followed the same route back with my first stop in San Blas and a visit to La Contaduia Fort and a great view from the walls of the fort. I then continued north to Mazatlan, entering the city from the south along the beach road. Thanks to Ignacio, a kind gentalman i meet at the gas station finding my way was easy as i followed him to Auga Verde, were he was going to buy shrimp. When we arrived in Auga Verde Ignacio introduced me to a couple of his friends and i explained what Fragile X Pedition was about and we parted ways. great people in Mexico. I continued on to Mazatlan were I spent a couple of nights to kick back and enjoy the beach and great weather, no rain. The first night I was there as I was walking home I saw turtles on the beach which were laying eggs. Way cool.</div><div>From Mazaatlan I made my way north to Los Mochis and the tiny port town of Topolobampo were I spent the night of Mexican Independence day. I first went out to Topolobampo, only to be told there would be no rooms until 5. I went back to Los Mochis and looked around for a room. However, due to the Fiesta about to happen all were booked, so after 2 hours of looking and being told no vacancy, I returned to as fate would have it and found a great room at the Hotel Marina. Then that night i was treated to a great performance by the town's people celebrating there Independence from the Spaniards. It was a great 4 hour performance in the square of children adults and seniors. What a great experience.</div><div>From there to Hermosillo and back to the states at Nogalas. I spent a few more days at Debbie''s house in Phoenix, thanks Deb. I then was elated to get a call from John my good friend and fellow KLR rider that he would ride down and ride back with me. So I got going again and meet John in Toas, New Mexico and we camped a few nights and rode back to Colorado. I made it a little more then 5000 miles with nothing more then a rear flat just 300 miles from home. Not a problem, tire off old tube out new tube in except, I decide to leave the pump behind since Simon had one. Thanks to John i was able to put a a couple of his CO2 cartridges in and we were back on the rode in about a hour. Not bad for a couple of amateurs.</div><div>It was a great adventure and with any luck now a few more people are aware of Fragile X and with any luck they will open the ever shrinking wallets when they decide to give a little this year. Well enough for now, I will add some more pictures and along with the rest of you wait to hear from Simon. Thanks for reading and Si thanks for letting me tag along.<br /><br /></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3949021732548206585.post-49946867061065648352008-10-02T20:10:00.003+01:002008-10-02T21:38:49.364+01:00not quite in colombia yet, but almost !<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuOhHCtV3wRb4FzcaAbHg59efSDboxkNvOFhVCTinal0BoPlRSVfyc07y-Zf1OYw9OFM2kNs7ogDRkdAEvcJ2ez1DODZRwk96Hf649Ohqzey96CM5gNFaeZaHTkEMB5fR-bw_NHgkToZ0/s1600-h/100_2415.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuOhHCtV3wRb4FzcaAbHg59efSDboxkNvOFhVCTinal0BoPlRSVfyc07y-Zf1OYw9OFM2kNs7ogDRkdAEvcJ2ez1DODZRwk96Hf649Ohqzey96CM5gNFaeZaHTkEMB5fR-bw_NHgkToZ0/s400/100_2415.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5252637402757837170" border="0" /></a>Just a few days away from sailing around coastal curves and islands to get to cartagena, colombia. Its nuts that theres only about 100 miles from the last section of road in panama to the border with colombia. Its possible to cross, only for the really fruitcake adventurous. The darien gap. i have mentioned it before. jungle, cartels, right wing and left wing guerillas, natives and mozzies carrying all the famous flesh, bone and brain rotting bacterea. Its a case of dragging the bike through gator rivers by your teeth. SOOOO my options are a boat or a plane. a plane cost too much ! so its the boat. I have met another rider. Omer, seen above sorting his KLR out. A new front tyre. Omer is from israel. he is riding down to ushuaia also. we are sort of scheduled to sail the sail boat, with captain Guido and his merrymen (well, i think he isnt alone)... from the paradise port of puerto lindo, atlantic panama. the trip takes 5 days, stopping off on the various san blas islands, to meet the native kuna tribes. The boat is a yacht as far as i know. A chunder bucket with me on board i am guessing....... I have a new back tyre, after searching at least 7 bike shops here in panama city. it isnt the needed dual sport knobby needed, but more like an R6 road gripper. i dont care as long as it gets me to at least cali, colombia, where i will sort out a knarley knobby to tackle the dirt of the andes. The last shop i found "Panama ATV STORE" were incredible in helping me find that elusive 17inch 5.10 tyre. what a nightmare we had. They rang around everywhere for 2 hours only to find that sticky rubber that fit. Luis the ATV manager actually drove to where ever and fetched the tyre. I have to say a million thanks to pete and luis and oriel for that help. A new battery was needed as the bike was coughing up an exhausting cry for help in starting. so a quick sighting of a huge battery shop helped there. Panama city is fast paced as they all are. a million cabs all leaning on their horns at the same time. brightly painted grafitti buses, driven by devils, screach in to every stop. ladies of the night smile and follow me everywhere. water ways on the road shoulder deep as a small man, to take away the downpours. humidity like never before- The lap tops are not, that, cheap here. the local larger , atlas, is 50 pence a bottle. pork in a thick tasty gravy with mixed rice. a boring hotel with miserable staff, sent me rushing to an atmospheric jamaican based hostel full of freindly israelies. states peeps and panamanians. free internet and smiles at the reception. A friendly ambitious chap named richard from elephant and castle. jimmy the cheeky cabbie trying to sell me the ladies in his life. All in all a great city with some sort of canal. think i crossed over that, via the bridge of the americas, overwelmed of the fact that man did that ! . Visited Aon panama aswell. THe 27th floor of a tall building named the generali tower. Situated in the heart of the busy financial district. I was welcomed and all listened to tails of the FXPedition. I am guessing at saying 50 staff ??.. top news from london ! the FXP has been mentioned in the business insurance europe magazine ! ... the awareness continues !! thank you amelia and alan. Also thank you so much Reuben ! at Aon dev sq. for keeping me posted and helping out !<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMqDzWKrs5zNHq46Tp9J9c0sEczZqfQ7LgfFb8mArFC__ZjOn2k1uqNBIZMAvk3h_RWoPYyf_t7YpcvhWG5yAYKFtFoQ7lWW0rhQP1S449YXZZWoFoBMlYFWigBv0Pdza91VI8tXkD_KA/s1600-h/100_2413.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMqDzWKrs5zNHq46Tp9J9c0sEczZqfQ7LgfFb8mArFC__ZjOn2k1uqNBIZMAvk3h_RWoPYyf_t7YpcvhWG5yAYKFtFoQ7lWW0rhQP1S449YXZZWoFoBMlYFWigBv0Pdza91VI8tXkD_KA/s400/100_2413.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5252637403182469186" border="0" /></a>financial area panama city<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2_qXNyWlYK_DnWUuXIqJcFnd7PuRc0m57YOiNWuhP28I6UGhw9ReIo7qUs5V1weh9Ybt96sk6d8eC5MhfiVl47TFvI35QpjmLbbBUzMM_W7SKQ05P87Dez5o_zUCffQ7_aBZ18LEOZwQ/s1600-h/100_2412.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2_qXNyWlYK_DnWUuXIqJcFnd7PuRc0m57YOiNWuhP28I6UGhw9ReIo7qUs5V1weh9Ybt96sk6d8eC5MhfiVl47TFvI35QpjmLbbBUzMM_W7SKQ05P87Dez5o_zUCffQ7_aBZ18LEOZwQ/s400/100_2412.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5252637407385952562" border="0" /></a>2 venezuelan adventurers - on their way home from alaska<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm93Z1oE8_7rN7yMb8WxkBwHoS4R8TiYPzgpx8owTqpKYpqAI_fkiUU6lEw2hm-VFo4OzYb5pVJGGHiqH7-q_Dsfo8vakHgpPr2cQzm2xqDXAnR1cDq8RVlD5kqNgz9zkpNSPfjA5-x-c/s1600-h/100_2409.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm93Z1oE8_7rN7yMb8WxkBwHoS4R8TiYPzgpx8owTqpKYpqAI_fkiUU6lEw2hm-VFo4OzYb5pVJGGHiqH7-q_Dsfo8vakHgpPr2cQzm2xqDXAnR1cDq8RVlD5kqNgz9zkpNSPfjA5-x-c/s400/100_2409.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5252637412079840594" border="0" /></a>the generali tower - floor 27 for aon - panama city<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOQxN1KIQuiG_QkNmU4sgZIL7h6CJba5RSs2ANQs_5dH-urASiNHCAENvPN9OzDPEjp5AU3SexVWy49q3r-Jq4ILrIqC-13-heMOMEKexBQpgXazWKCa5xqjfNIB5UclhMsqsTxAlzw40/s1600-h/100_2407.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOQxN1KIQuiG_QkNmU4sgZIL7h6CJba5RSs2ANQs_5dH-urASiNHCAENvPN9OzDPEjp5AU3SexVWy49q3r-Jq4ILrIqC-13-heMOMEKexBQpgXazWKCa5xqjfNIB5UclhMsqsTxAlzw40/s400/100_2407.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5252637416529279618" border="0" /></a>Meeting the aon panama employees.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3949021732548206585.post-40871882748530571202008-09-28T14:20:00.004+01:002008-09-29T10:34:22.587+01:00entering phase 3<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXb4Oi_TiEX0HNQgW5DfXJkdw1275arPMDcJNbE59EU8JTBz8ahbst01cHcrfHsoOW7t7pvdK3YbsBK7hn9T2xXZfWuSWdVwwFPMRLg_w94d4_S5hboq0x4a2wx1esm7c47TftMWdWkX4/s1600-h/100_2405.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5251063683980632306" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXb4Oi_TiEX0HNQgW5DfXJkdw1275arPMDcJNbE59EU8JTBz8ahbst01cHcrfHsoOW7t7pvdK3YbsBK7hn9T2xXZfWuSWdVwwFPMRLg_w94d4_S5hboq0x4a2wx1esm7c47TftMWdWkX4/s400/100_2405.JPG" border="0" /></a> Guatemala city was hard to leave. Not because i had grown emotionaly attached to the city., but because it was physically hard to leave. A massive city. The roads are in easy block formations on the inside, but as the city has grown outwards, different formations have evolved around it, making it confusing to the innocent. Also they had decided to throw sporadic street parties, which looked fun, with kids laughing and families smiling, but i wanted out quick again. I am developing a phobia to these magnifcant cities. The roads being closed all over, had actually speeded up the traffic. people wanted to get their destinations quicker and madder than usual, im sure. Being interupted out of their usual ways of going...... I was definatly feeling vulnerable. witnessing to tragaties the day before coming into the city had left me a bit soft. A kind of shock was hanging around. The city doesnt care. It seemed to take moons to get back into the greenhills, moisture and mist , so familiar in central america. A complete contrast to the great city. 150 miles north easterly on caraterra CA9 to stay in the border town chuquimula. it didnt take long to feel myself again and shake off the shock. riding through the scenery, new faces smiling, car horns sounding with thumbs up and wonder, always fills out a dented spirit with quick ease. rolling into chuquimula my steering went stiff and didnt flow from side to side. "oh me gawd, is this a blown head baring ?". as it happens a macdonalds turns up and after a big mac meal had sucked me in and thoughts of what now, i found the radiator cover had somehow bent out, sticking out forwards catching the high front mudguard. nothing a few cable ties couldnt sort out. with relief i rolled into chuquimula to more street festivities. people all over the roads and pavements. cars at a standstill. multicoloured , small doors to the pavement terraced buildings. simple wooden window shutters all open. i cant help being nosy. Im lost riding around the town for an hour. forgetting i need a room. loving the atmosphere of this colourful town. A kind man finds me, in typical gutemala style and leads me to a hotel. no vancancies. so i find one i had just seen. Hotel posada don adan. a room, a shower, air con, and a locked gate to stash the bike behind. all for 5 pounds equivilant. If you are ever heading across that border at el florido - copan ruinas, you must stay at the place. near the main plaza. ask someone. the town is perfect as the sun goes down behind the local hills.<br /><br />sitting here now in panama after a few more border crossings, i have almost got used to them. now its getting comical. the same process, but all unique. guat to honduras was easy, no need for help. a stamp for me and the bike, to leave then the same to enter. immagracion then aduana , customs..... honduras was a sinuous perfection of no pot holes roads. through the mountains. all seems reserved though. gone have the car horns and thumbs up. just inquisitive eyes. alls calm. into nicaragua, where the horns and thumbs are back. people bending over backwards to help out even when ya dont need any help. ride past lake managua "de donde va" everyone shouts at me and i shout something back in my shattered mockney spanish. we all smile and laugh. another kind chap finds me lost and leads me out of managua onto the CA1. I get lost again. i find 3 people with a mini bike. i stay with them an hour. they are facinated and facinating. San marcos is their town. more beautiful peeling paintwork in pastal multi colours. Next stop a costa rica beach. most speak english. it easier explaining why im there and what im doing. a man places a link on his global web site to the fxp. Costa rica is very much the paradise you see in films. bizare sounds through the night. heavy rains for an hour. sunsets amazing.mind you there is always a limit to a mans listening to reggae. So then. im in panama. just met TJ and his wife precila. they live here and like what i am doing. their daughter works with autistic kids. we shall contact each other. i need a new back tyre. this ones finally left after 10500 miles. a boat or plane to colombia also. im not sure of the best option yet. next stop south america.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-6HPap-K89pkc8-QcFbgPNn66kDmXOfqUu58AUfhs9y78pBf7kiheSRrkm8QlvRuGFSEOSvTXUJW2uu9CWETE93u1iFS2Wl9Y0bGeh3KbMwcE0us334T-FQMdXjIugkchGFIeBDqMAjg/s1600-h/100_2393.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5251063690742191218" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-6HPap-K89pkc8-QcFbgPNn66kDmXOfqUu58AUfhs9y78pBf7kiheSRrkm8QlvRuGFSEOSvTXUJW2uu9CWETE93u1iFS2Wl9Y0bGeh3KbMwcE0us334T-FQMdXjIugkchGFIeBDqMAjg/s400/100_2393.JPG" border="0" /></a> volcan, nicaragua<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghujm4cpXJXG0nPNSM8lBdSf6PoANx6DjVwTezmkLR5pmxOEcphyEVdzbnxxKYQr9GoEyE1Uv7V5PWue4Bo7UeTPalAwpyqLZBXWijPHcRgOjfCj4juY1efaaXTVku9Z4TbIDODlbuG8A/s1600-h/100_2382.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5251063180184702466" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghujm4cpXJXG0nPNSM8lBdSf6PoANx6DjVwTezmkLR5pmxOEcphyEVdzbnxxKYQr9GoEyE1Uv7V5PWue4Bo7UeTPalAwpyqLZBXWijPHcRgOjfCj4juY1efaaXTVku9Z4TbIDODlbuG8A/s400/100_2382.JPG" border="0" /></a> guatemala<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpn6coan9pRXHkEo8KW81i1EhkZ-4BLXGs1tdVQTfPsthYWy9QtExaXNLyd03VTaar-38uFlscCTa36POv1l-CHKVX3n6pzN4v3A9XgiZiVKS2601_59aD93I6IfTiSbN3x6E8utAEOF8/s1600-h/100_2386.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5251063181543757842" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpn6coan9pRXHkEo8KW81i1EhkZ-4BLXGs1tdVQTfPsthYWy9QtExaXNLyd03VTaar-38uFlscCTa36POv1l-CHKVX3n6pzN4v3A9XgiZiVKS2601_59aD93I6IfTiSbN3x6E8utAEOF8/s400/100_2386.JPG" border="0" /></a> guatemala<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCtGOt0KxEjLstGDL90lESiiun4bC4pl2vaKCWWDCDwaoZvVIyYo8FtaVxzx-QHZ2CaPsICSjx8uHSYins5IM1Gr4uyWlHX7FnT4SV5XV1n1BtYEI6k54cbvKMXvMSNNI5aS1bTCnUGrc/s1600-h/100_2387.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5251063187834423394" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCtGOt0KxEjLstGDL90lESiiun4bC4pl2vaKCWWDCDwaoZvVIyYo8FtaVxzx-QHZ2CaPsICSjx8uHSYins5IM1Gr4uyWlHX7FnT4SV5XV1n1BtYEI6k54cbvKMXvMSNNI5aS1bTCnUGrc/s400/100_2387.JPG" border="0" /></a> nicaragua<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9aMbNYha6-1f0GiHEC5xv2rd-j3l_t98EMLd0zmIaV76DrWMLsBY0roGmrVJ7HNfbFcZ3BQyg-NNDtadDZr8djze0U54hfMDPEpqZliXMfPx8IXyexs9efLBSEmCXdzZzzfbXCythXqo/s1600-h/100_2388.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5251063190562279474" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9aMbNYha6-1f0GiHEC5xv2rd-j3l_t98EMLd0zmIaV76DrWMLsBY0roGmrVJ7HNfbFcZ3BQyg-NNDtadDZr8djze0U54hfMDPEpqZliXMfPx8IXyexs9efLBSEmCXdzZzzfbXCythXqo/s400/100_2388.JPG" border="0" /></a> nicaraguan mates<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIAYX1ReWnPSP-6vnosdXms74dFai80DGAFAtAvl5aZlLoy92PXmk1_B5WkZOm38fjTDizhf8Ry-AkzsV57-DPqfKXn3mvutvkbZ7Mpg0rO7_7TL1paj6xZwN_dIaK7L-sB1Hjk2q4V14/s1600-h/100_2395.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5251063190814691698" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIAYX1ReWnPSP-6vnosdXms74dFai80DGAFAtAvl5aZlLoy92PXmk1_B5WkZOm38fjTDizhf8Ry-AkzsV57-DPqfKXn3mvutvkbZ7Mpg0rO7_7TL1paj6xZwN_dIaK7L-sB1Hjk2q4V14/s400/100_2395.JPG" border="0" /></a> the beach costa rica<br /><br /><div></div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3949021732548206585.post-18414630783319629592008-09-21T16:54:00.003+01:002008-09-21T17:45:14.824+01:00border crossings - a joy to the insane !<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkjWN8dHbCk3rH-x-NE6DaeNZ2yAhM_nqNdhEECFKejPwt0oOmQreHHA4Ksj8iBpRZgUH3giRL7xRvdj9QHxHt5YQEvdnWs-mNTUjTpVtPhROJ5h85HZh7I9w-hDqUBp_w0SG7Md4CDe4/s1600-h/100_2362.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5248504841908917634" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkjWN8dHbCk3rH-x-NE6DaeNZ2yAhM_nqNdhEECFKejPwt0oOmQreHHA4Ksj8iBpRZgUH3giRL7xRvdj9QHxHt5YQEvdnWs-mNTUjTpVtPhROJ5h85HZh7I9w-hDqUBp_w0SG7Md4CDe4/s400/100_2362.JPG" border="0" /></a> The above photo is of a small bay at bahias de huatulco, mexico. It is a bay surrounded in history and folklore. In 1587 the english explorer, adventurer, pirate, whatever you want to call him, sailed into this bay, to raid , plunder and generaly cause as much pain to the local spanish settlers as possible. There was a cross built on the beach, which is surrounded in its own mystical history as apparently an apostle of jesus arrived with timber on his shoulders , from the sea. this was 2000 years before mr cavendish audatiously arrived, sword in hand. The apostle, said be saint thomas apostle erected the huge cross on his own and deemed it very holy. Mr cavendish then arrives in 1587 with his small ship and merry english men, plunders the town and trys his hardest to destroy the catholic symbol on the beach, him being of newly found protestant faith. Axes and swords were used to destroy the cross, that didnt do the job. He tied a rope from the cross to his ship, that didnt work. after all that effort he tried to burn the timber to ashes. No joy there either. Apparently the Oaxaca catherdral, some miles north of the bay has a chair made from that very undestroyed timber, still sitting there, rairly noticed by worshipers and tourists alike. This is a beautiful part of the mexican pacific coastline. Another place i felt like putting my feet up at. A posh resort for the money merchants. I didnt stay for to long. Off along the coast line to salina cruz for the night . A large shipping city, industrial smoke, constant clatter of iron, dust dancing in the air, and some incredible views of the surrounding bays from the hill sides. I managed to sample some pasta there, which i savoured. As the border was nearing the traffic became less dense. Fewer trucks rumbling past inches away, tugging at the stickers on my panniers. the hills to the north became jagged green mountains. the wind became relentless and hard. a cross wind that had me leaning into it riding at 45 degrees. More military check points appeared. Each one asking me poilitly if i was carrying guns. Looking into my panniers and wondering why im out there. All soldiers interested in what fragile x syndrome is. All of them taking my flyers and taking time to read them. walking away with a sticker also. The rains came again in the afternoon. flooded towns and skinny soaked dogs sat by the road, uncaring. I pulled into a gas stop in the rain to meet 3 riders. the first since canada. all mexicans from the town of tapachula, close to the border. I rode with them, which was a bit of luck due to the lack of visibility in the misty rain. they had bright hazard lights which i just followed. After chats on the syndrome and why im there we grasped hands with that bonding rock stlye hand shake and they splashed away into my history. I had a few hours daylight left so i though i would get as close to the border as possible and kip the night. The borders have many people just hanging around . not chatting just waiting. they all waved to me. i waved back only to see them all come running over to me, pushing each other aside and barking aggresive spanish at each other. these people i found out to be "tramistadors" helpers to naive people wanting to cross the border. they can either cut crossing time down or i spose run off with all your papers. I managed to keep them at bay and find a room for the night. the tramistadors were also staying there. Next day, off the border early. 8pm. stamped my passport out for me then i looked for the stamping out for the bike office. nowhere to be seen. After stressful conversations with more helpers, it turns out i had to ride 30 miles back to the nearest city to find the aduana office to get my bike exit stamp. soooooo 2 hours later im back nearing the border, racing ahead of the legions pf tramistadors chasing me on smaller bikes, likely for me. i had the edge ! a 20mph edge !! passed the mexican exit again, over the no mans land bridge and into guatemala territory. The immagracion office is right there. the first place to go. a man comes upto me all offical like and asks for my passport, i hand it to him he scarpers ! i drop the bike on its right side again and chase him. hes just around the corner in a line. the linbe i should be in with my own passport. he ignores my pleas of "give me back my passport". im charged 1 USA dollar to enter guatamala at this window. Thats it its to late im a victim of the tramistador, after all the previous nights avoiding and that morings rracing away from them. i ask him how much this cost me. he ignores me. then another bloke appears, hes there to keep my attention off the helper, who by now has all my neccessary papers. the bike registration, international drivers licence etc. All in all it was a very quick service, using these bods. they ripped me off with the price of entry, by $40. but i was out o fthere and into guatemala in an hour. I wished i had done it all myself, finding th eright buildings and offices, but alas. i have learned a few lessons. Honduras border tomorrow, so lets see me get strong and stay calm. Guatemala. the continuation of the mexican green mountains. the roads have deteriarated and got much much faster. there are less dead animals by the road side. i think the skill it takes to dodge pottholes the size of cows has helped keep the animal population of guatemala alive. Its a short ride to guatemala city. a notorious city. which lives upto its reputation, believe me. Night fell , i found a hotel in a safe part of town ,they say. It has been safe. all the guatemalans i have met so far, on chocolate stops on route and here in the city have been very friendly and inquisitive. My front caliper fell off , coincidently outside a moto repair shop. the chap comes out no words and just fixes it for me. i gave him money for his wonderfulness. Opened the curtains this morning to see the city quiet. all still asleeep . the horizon holding 3 volcanos. all breathing a gentle stream of thin smoke heading in the same direction. they to are still asleep. I found the Aisfa building in guatemala city. easier on a sunday morning. It looks like the company there is not called Aon. They are called AISFA. they are listed in the aon directory as an aon office. No one was in, but i took some pics of the building.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtBr6fOAs0K4avNK48_zjmwZKBkjPjmkp7ev5pTQyuoCfLbM2ZdSdTHzUvyCLRPK1YvlH5TqfTi4klcuZUR4hB1wFJOI1vZeqX0pbGADzFLZuHYxiQejnLLBRwAjDLo5ZnEKGlY7l_3bU/s1600-h/100_2366.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5248504848934265250" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtBr6fOAs0K4avNK48_zjmwZKBkjPjmkp7ev5pTQyuoCfLbM2ZdSdTHzUvyCLRPK1YvlH5TqfTi4klcuZUR4hB1wFJOI1vZeqX0pbGADzFLZuHYxiQejnLLBRwAjDLo5ZnEKGlY7l_3bU/s400/100_2366.JPG" border="0" /></a> mexcian pacific outside salina cruz<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcMD87WxQJ6pFQpoR3FTjX17m5ahPpTmZvUZNJf36i-aWtDrCoDDnMRimcUnaiRfGgXLV39sq5xGHcPd98f6fW39SpMbQPwuT83fh-HWLeQ8Oxf5Ae4XueJkBGkOI6L8g_Q7mfVPU1-mg/s1600-h/100_2371.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5248504854811650386" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcMD87WxQJ6pFQpoR3FTjX17m5ahPpTmZvUZNJf36i-aWtDrCoDDnMRimcUnaiRfGgXLV39sq5xGHcPd98f6fW39SpMbQPwuT83fh-HWLeQ8Oxf5Ae4XueJkBGkOI6L8g_Q7mfVPU1-mg/s400/100_2371.JPG" border="0" /></a> guatemala city on a sunday morning<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJnhk9_fOmzYbz3v0SdSCw_MeGZLOPbEIatGt7RCbPjugtwac3wZ4mlkwlcSywGkMOKElTCKrPq2ppSpVFaqnw-BxMD3IkGm-k00metIFxES3eXq18ZxSKFrTd6dvG26aGw5oIs3uBIK8/s1600-h/100_2375.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5248504857661942386" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJnhk9_fOmzYbz3v0SdSCw_MeGZLOPbEIatGt7RCbPjugtwac3wZ4mlkwlcSywGkMOKElTCKrPq2ppSpVFaqnw-BxMD3IkGm-k00metIFxES3eXq18ZxSKFrTd6dvG26aGw5oIs3uBIK8/s400/100_2375.JPG" border="0" /></a> the aisfa building - a sister company to aon - guatemala city<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw8Y_rJZgQgF3xpobRTYyoMyo9fjfmNpMNn8WYHsEg_5bEpU8FRIADnDJ94FOJXRhAoO7Ufzg8aXGGH6jCSdm4uzpd3YaOSwhZMe459sg_NXX-bXeW_ok0oTSqOnuOI3d_CeUoirKszhE/s1600-h/100_2376.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5248504872530149138" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw8Y_rJZgQgF3xpobRTYyoMyo9fjfmNpMNn8WYHsEg_5bEpU8FRIADnDJ94FOJXRhAoO7Ufzg8aXGGH6jCSdm4uzpd3YaOSwhZMe459sg_NXX-bXeW_ok0oTSqOnuOI3d_CeUoirKszhE/s400/100_2376.JPG" border="0" /></a> as above<br /><div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3949021732548206585.post-28030806719913149832008-09-17T18:54:00.003+01:002008-09-17T19:13:46.551+01:00photos realating to below post<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-z7KChDNtbR6cdl_Q0_s-VFXoqH7FREUZuvqG3MFxtwqRPKCLUNsL5IdYjtLBIZXMP_2GRUeqlflUqJeRo9YCiJzbphJaRVNShSe4ay4DFnLRx0ILCka1sqedjdlnzKYwFklPEo2fCw0/s1600-h/100_2334.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5247053895044995362" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-z7KChDNtbR6cdl_Q0_s-VFXoqH7FREUZuvqG3MFxtwqRPKCLUNsL5IdYjtLBIZXMP_2GRUeqlflUqJeRo9YCiJzbphJaRVNShSe4ay4DFnLRx0ILCka1sqedjdlnzKYwFklPEo2fCw0/s400/100_2334.JPG" border="0" /></a> Ivonne, Francis, Isobel, me and Alfredo at lunch in the village of Suchitlan<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHURAL7skK0Kxj1sJ1hPkFirL_v0DfxF9NKWvQFDM7KMB9GuIUOpdT0whV-y_1jyIL31JscQgYa3Ecru5TrHF4vaSju7GqmlVXvL0r_McPJYVOEccof_CiRa9F3CSZNzpt94P_seUXAVQ/s1600-h/100_2338.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5247053898267847314" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHURAL7skK0Kxj1sJ1hPkFirL_v0DfxF9NKWvQFDM7KMB9GuIUOpdT0whV-y_1jyIL31JscQgYa3Ecru5TrHF4vaSju7GqmlVXvL0r_McPJYVOEccof_CiRa9F3CSZNzpt94P_seUXAVQ/s400/100_2338.JPG" border="0" /></a> Tortillas, tacos, pig skin cooked in vinegar, beer with tobasco and great conversation, with independence celebrations as a back drop<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9qozinRKM8QWVRVyvRDIbwrweyv1j7mnP1JTw5CmzyczVXtrgKLdd09FZU5zZgj-HNQDXZNZ8tpch_VlJ55lAPle3PCsdGS9tyKxrFIKMPpXepVIO2OK9RpDRctTUYOnXvNSymxBOBWU/s1600-h/100_2332.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5247053901551940930" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9qozinRKM8QWVRVyvRDIbwrweyv1j7mnP1JTw5CmzyczVXtrgKLdd09FZU5zZgj-HNQDXZNZ8tpch_VlJ55lAPle3PCsdGS9tyKxrFIKMPpXepVIO2OK9RpDRctTUYOnXvNSymxBOBWU/s400/100_2332.JPG" border="0" /></a> Volcan de Colimas - well the tip anyway. imagine that clear horizon. no other peak near except a small sister peak nearby.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQYDoPIc2_JqVqUcQoFieve-xw66ENZZ4soCtEdhfA-hl95npMe4s1fzh7iFR6RNa01ikLY0LCZp9rMB01IaZW7UOZLiTS4SY4IjGSNpj9WugogjW0d3GwmYH0jZQRMwY1tuH2mpWLhPw/s1600-h/100_2352.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5247053906854714690" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQYDoPIc2_JqVqUcQoFieve-xw66ENZZ4soCtEdhfA-hl95npMe4s1fzh7iFR6RNa01ikLY0LCZp9rMB01IaZW7UOZLiTS4SY4IjGSNpj9WugogjW0d3GwmYH0jZQRMwY1tuH2mpWLhPw/s400/100_2352.JPG" border="0" /></a> el pacifico<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIPSWSWjx82u5bhArdkCGjX8AojwLeAyueaBX3Vzy96BI53kJVORy8hB8Q_bJFeCnUv8ML73wsXlrtFNjqLr0Z5NWqZ3aYuDOf0RfUQoxaWJv3uCrVJYG6zCGQ3TrcvIeW1T5YCA_cLUI/s1600-h/100_2355.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5247053911834860626" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIPSWSWjx82u5bhArdkCGjX8AojwLeAyueaBX3Vzy96BI53kJVORy8hB8Q_bJFeCnUv8ML73wsXlrtFNjqLr0Z5NWqZ3aYuDOf0RfUQoxaWJv3uCrVJYG6zCGQ3TrcvIeW1T5YCA_cLUI/s400/100_2355.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3949021732548206585.post-7657945767679266542008-09-17T17:42:00.003+01:002008-09-17T19:07:48.316+01:00New friends. a better understanding of mexico and a radio interviewSolo once more. Petes gone north and im heading south still. nothing could stop me now. We rode well together. Never hard compromising, always swapping the lead easily, spending the evenings in honest chats and loads of laughter. Battling our way through the language barrier (pete doing much better than i). So after hugs and well wishes we split directions out of the town of Tepic. I head for Guadalajara and another Aon office. The sky is white with cloud and im hoping pete takes the raining season back north with him. my hopes seem true to Guadalajara. Half a days ride under a dry sky. The rain is predictable. the mornings are generaly dry but overcast. the late afternoon tends to get wet into the evening. Guadalajara welcomes me with the fast paced manic overwhelming driving i have come to love. I decide, head for the heart and see what happens. 5 hours later im lost in an overcrowded stand still traffic jam, city wide. I have spent the last few hours locating avenida mariano otero, the road the office is off, but there is no col.rinconada del bosque road leading off it anywhere. i ask numerous people " donde este dirreccion" while showing the address on paper, some understand and send me east , some understand and send me west. I know im braking the road laws coz of hoots and shouts from pedestrians, car drivers and the police . The sun is falling, the haze is getting yellow and full of atmospheric glare and i have a long way top go after Guadalajara, so after more broken laws i fly off, out of the city in an unknown direction. That was to much, i was going nowhere. No Aon today. the street system was impossible. the traffic was beyond the amount that makes things hard and im now an outlaw. Luckily im heading in the right direction. Colima is the town i want to get to before night falls and the donkeys come out and sleep in the road standing up, generaly around blind corners. I make Colima at dusk. 50 miles out of town the warm rain strikes, cooling me down no end, both physically and mentally. I need cash , so the first bank i see is the scotiabank. one i havent used before. the cashpoint says , NO! i try again. NO ! im fuming again. i leave to find a couple next to my bike. i assume they are riders on long travels, stopped for the night in this peaceful town. As it turns out Alfredo and Isobel are local. Alfredo has intentions of scarpering off on his 250 honda. So he and Isobel, his daughter, invite me to their family restaurant up the street for a coffee and a chat. i ride off to find a successful cash machine and return. We sit there at the table for 6 hours. i drink some mexican beer. we chat about mexico and motorcycles, while the rest of the family joins us. Ivonne and Gaia lucia, the youngest of Alfredo and Ivonnes 2. Lucky again for me they all speak great inteligent english. I learn about how tequila gets from the plant to the throat. i try 2 local brews, both go down easy and make the brain cells smile. How the local indians march into the desert to find Poyote to find wisdom and manhood. What mexican politics has been like since independence and a revolution. It just so happens that weekend is aniversary time of both the revolution and independence. Alfredo invites me to stay at his apartment , no charge. i stay for 2 nights. On the next day im introduced to Isobels friend, Francis, weho just so happens to manage the family radio station in the neighbouring port of manzanillo. Wonderful for the Fragile X Pedition cause, because he offers me an interview live on air for the next day. We all drive to the local volvano, Volcan de Colima, in franciss cars. A friend to greet every morning for all the locals. This beast of a cone sits alone on a flat horizon, standing over 4000 metres tall. the last eruption was 5 years ago. i missed it riding into Colima coz of clouds. The clouds are still there. we drive to the feet of the cone. a strange atmosphere lerks there. green all around, dry rivers where lava and land have spilt down the hill side over the years. its quiet. there are villages near by, where they have a traffic light system regarding the volcano. green is good, go about your daily business, orange means keep an eye on th emountain, red means get out quick ! shes gonna blow ! I only managed to see the cone from the balcony at Alfredo place early in the morning. incredible sight.. After the drive we have lunch in an old indian village named Suchitlan, where the local language isnt spanish, but Nahuatl, unforgotten Aztec. We eat tortillas, with goat meat in a thin sauce, birria barcacoa. drink chocalate drinks mixed with water. a tradition in mexico because chocolate is older than milk here, so in the old days water was used. I learn more about mexican tradition and feel alot closer to the country than before. i was just skimming the edge. I know now the mexican people are strong, resiliant, refined in their pleasures and always willing to talk openly and welcome strangers into their homes. It was hard leaving A lfredo and his wonderful family, and i thank them with all my heart. i have an interview to do on live radio. Thanks very much to francis. This is my first major break through as far as i know regarding the spread of awareness for fragile x syndrome. I arrive in manzanillo 2 hours late, but it doesnt matter. Im greeted by the freindly receptionist and another gentleman, who i forget the name of, please forgive me. Roberto my translator arrives and we immediatly hit the airwaves, via the DJ. he asks me questions about myself, the trip , my sister, my niece Sian and the syndrome. Roberto brilliantly translates. I use the leaflets that Maggie sent me to make life easier for them all to understand. it works. airplay 10 minutes, reaching a wide mexican base of people ! im chuffed to bits and am told it all went very well...Thanks all at K-lieT Radio. 93.7 FM...<br /><br />Time to get my skates on again. its a shame coz now i have had contact and been eduacated about mexico i would love to ride the whole country, but that would take 3 months. i have to get going . i need to be in panama waiting for the boat to cartagena by end of september. next time !!Out of Manzanillo is the coast road running parrell with the Pacific to more or less the Guatemala frontier. The rains are here again for the next few hours till i hit the rural parts of the coast. i pass places called La Ticla, Manzanillere andbarra de nexpa. All amazing unspoiled surf playas. A few spars buildings made from coconut tree leaves dried and places on timber beams for roofing. Afew Surfers relax and greet me with peace signs and smiles. All so relaxing i could stay for a year. the surf keeps rolling in gently crashing on the sand. Night is coming fast again and im inbewteen villages. a lesson i have learned is to stop at the first available motel before at dusk. Night riding is full of suprises. 25mph for hours to the next motel. donkeys as i mentioned earlier, cattle, large lizards and very fast lane hogging trucks appear out of the darkness to test ya reactions. Anyway, i have just left Acapulco. a city splattered over numerous cliff faces. face paced, packed out and loud. potholes on all roads. a safe motel for me last night that ya pay by the hour for. people, moving around cagy all night. The sun is out and i know there is more to write but i cant, gotta get me skates on again ! The gautemala border in 2 days ! a new country ! full of a suffering history of repression. Mayan ruins and jungles ! hopefully will post from there !Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0