Thursday, 6 November 2008

From the middle of the world

Banos, ecuador. the village sits at the foot of tungurahua , a volcano, thats quiet right now, but always up for some red hot spewing. gonna find a way up it today. 2 years ago vacuation.
Aon Quito. Thnak you. i wish i could remember everyones names.
All fun and helpful at Aon Quito
I was welcomed with open arms and big smiles. Aon quito

{above photo at the equator}......... I rode out of Medellin, Colombia heading south with mike and willy. Mike from minnesota on a gorgeous ktm 950 and willy on his saucy bmw gs1200, all gadgets inclusive. Paul owner of the casa kiwi lead us out of town, which i am grateful for, that saved the habitual getting lost , sweaty and a tad stroppy. as soon as we were out of town the mountain roads took us , winding higher and higher. Passing through villages, built on the peaks. Sometimes above the clouds with the buzzards to keep us company and always a symbol of to be careful. i dont wanna be their grub. As night was near i managed to loose the boys and take the wrong road. I stayed in Anserma. a small town once again built on the edge of a mountain, beautiful and friendly. Realising the boys would be in santa rosa i managed to catch up with them blasting down to popayan. a colonial town celebrating haloween in gorey style. This is a part of the world that they say is a hotspot, due to guerilla activity. I saw nothing threatening or cold. just more freindly faces and good wishes. pasto is the town we needed as a last stop before the border with ecuador. 3000 metres up in the mist. willy had blasted off, leaving mike and myself to cut through the damp mountain mist into the early night. it was dificult. cold and vision was almost zero. we had to wait and just follow a cars rear lights. when that car disapeared , we`d have to wait and catch the next car. mike got disorientated at one point , stopped and didnt know whether he was unside down or not, which infected to me and we both dropped the bikes at a stand still. laughing our heads off laying on the wet tarmac. That night in pasto, scoffing chicken and rice mike had the horrendous realisation, with his head in his hands, that he had left all his papers, back at the previous nights hotel in popayan, under his matress. 150 miles back along a beautiful, difficult ride. All his legal in colombia papers everything. Alongside getting the bike nicked this is the worse thing that can happen. Alls rosy now though, we took a taxi back the next day, which took all day. Victor was our nutcase driver, who without fibbing, nearly got us meeting our maker more than 20 times, including just narrowly missing a donkey, who was wistfully standing around a corner in the middle of the night time road. i still cant guess how he managed to avoid that one. he just laughed all the close shaves off, in that , oh well, what will be will be way. I am a lucky man ! i dont take that for granted though !....... crossing the border was a breeze. 40 minutes. all the windows and offices needed all colse to each other. the only problem was trying to get these tequila supping nutters off of the bikes to let us out of colombia. all good fun. The clouds are down so far in ecuador. until today that is. the bluest of blue skies and visible volcanoes at last. The faces have changed now. the people smaller. indeginous ways, clothes , smells and foods. incredibly interesting just to sit and people watch. weathered faces telling so much. giggling kids , waving from the road shoulders. After a few stop overs in more beautiful towns and crossing the equator into the southern hemisphere and summer, i`ve landed in Quito. ecuadors heaving capital city. the easiest to navigate city i have visited so far. clean and stunning this place. many many euro tourists. all waiting to go off into their own adventures, mountain climbind, white water rafting, horse riding. all sorts. this is a hubb. Volcanos majestic overlooking the city. The last eruption, around 5 years ago. I have been spoiled by the Aon office here, as i was in medellin. Olvaro put me intouch with patricio rodriguez at the quito office. i visited them to day, to have a newspaper photographer waiting for me and an interview already set up the national paper named, Hoy. I was also warmly recieved by gustavo proano tola, alberto davalos b, alejandra garzan and all that work there. They all took time from their busy days to listen to my story and heartfeltly wished me sucess. My good luck hasnt changed yet. gustavos daughter diana. just so happens to work as a journalist, for the Hoy newspaper. She interviewed me over an hour, asking great questions. understanding fragile x syndrome. again no one has heard of FXS, but now they have. The article is released next wednesday. check it out at the website http://www.hoy.com.ec/ .. El comercio the national paper of ecuador interviewed me with high passion also. their article on the FXP will be released in their sunday supplement called Famlilia, 2 months from now. so keep an eye open for that one. also while doing that interview, a young lady from an organisation that helps families in need also interviewd me, so theres another article out there....... patricio is a motorcycle fantatic aswell. he has invited me to ride out on saturday with his friends, to ride some great roads and see more vistas, that i wouldnt have seen otherwise. Like in medellin i will never forget these peoples generosity, understanding and huge help. I have definatly fallen in love with south america ! i am pushed for time now. must get my skates on.....

border. colombia into ecuador


buzzard

mike and me. my klr and his ktm. a beast.


guillermo and family. Otavalo, ecuador


otavalo residents

otavalo residents

market town otavalo

quito from the Aon office

warm latin american welcomes again !


Quito. a heavy mass of wonderfulness

Gustavo and patricio. Aon Quito. Top blokes. no end of help to the FXP.

Aon quito


Diana and patricio interviewing me, from the Aon office


Aon employees hard at it.

the aon building
















Saturday, 1 November 2008

Colombia - It really is dream land

Arauca
Risaralda

Risaralda


risaralda

Santa Barbara - Colombia.




Santa Barbara - Colombia

Paul and his Casa Kiwi Gang. Medellin Colombia. The perfect Hostel. Bikers get discount and paul is no end of help.

Santa Barabara. The town is built on top of a razor sharp mountain.

nanas

Coffee bush




Post landslide


This great family i had the pleasure to meet and ride with . 3 up and fast.

oops again
Jose. More pleasures riding with new mates. Supia Colombia
Met this bunch of kids in santa rosa near pereira. intelligent and fun. they were all ears about FXS
Pinapples definatly taste better here !

Popayan

With the fantastic help of Peter Sohm, Alvaro Uribe and the Aon Office in Medellin, we had an interview and publication in th eColombia newspaper, EL COLOMBIANO. Click to read the online article. I could never thank these amazing people enough !http://www.elcolombiano.com/BancoConocimiento/D/de_alaska_a_tierra_del_fuego_ruge_la_moto_de_simon/de_alaska_a_tierra_del_fuego_ruge_la_moto_de_simon.asp?CodSeccion=9
.

Tuesday, 28 October 2008

medellin

Kind of cow head piggy face teddy bear flower. colombia
After a great feed along side the truckers the night before i wasnt desiring grub on this cool almost cold 8am morning. the mist was still clinging to the hills, the sun light hazy visible in that way that reasures she will be at full glow later in the day. As i am loading the bike a bloke with a 250 crossers is doing the same. a man with a hard face. i dont stare to much. he comes over with that hard face and bleets on about my bike and his bike, that im sure of. then jumps on his and flys off spinning the rear end 180 degrees , throwing up dirt and stones all over me. oh well, i smile thinking ill shatter his ego later down some long straight, my 650 will eat him up. not that theres anything great about roasting someone on a straight, maybe around some mountain hairpin has more skills showing offness... with all that nonsense forgotten after 5 miles my bike starts smoking from all over. the engine is coughing up , even the right hand hand guard looks like its smoking. my right leg is covered in oil, then i notice everything is covered in oil, arghhhhhhh. i stop and see that i have lost the engine oil cap. the only morning i didnt check its tightness since alaska ! all coz some prat got jealous and distracted me. Lucky for me though i had stopped by one of those small tiendas that sell crisps and water that you find every few miles with not much else around for ages. Im covered in oil and my only idea is to maybe stick an old t-shirt where the cap should be. I ask the pretty girl serving the tienda if she has tissues for me. she has and she has 2 brothers with a motorcyle as it happens. Jairo and yorsman. they look like they are in their early 20s. Yorsman jumps on his bike without a word and disapears in the direction i have just came from. Jairo speaks better english than my spanish. he says that yorsman is off looking for the cap along the road side following my trail of lost oil. Jairo stares at the bike saying there is a town a few miles off rural zone silence with the odd mnnnnnmmaaaaaa from a cow. half hour later yorsman is back with no smile. didnt find the cap. he rides off again to the near town. Jairo tells me hes off to medellin also today and that i can ride with him. an hour later yorsman returns without a smile again . im not smiling much at this point either. just groaning... the boys disapear into their tienda and return 10 mins later with a tube of solid wood, carved. they measure the diameter of the wood to the hole where the cap should be in the engine. im thinking nah, chips will get mangled in the engine and thats the trip spent. it works. the wood is screwed into the engine and its solid ! perfection, genius ! the wood doesnt budge. and to top off the kindness and time these 2 boys have given up what they was doing for me they rode around showing me the back rural parts of the region. Antioquia a queen of hearts part of the world. towns and hills i would never have seen. serenity everywhere. After another 4 hours we are riding around the mountain roads, dodging on coming trucks and trying not to slide off the edge. these boys are fast, even twoz up on a 125. they jsut miss an oncoming truck , ooooooooooohhhh that was very close. we all laugh about it in that phew you got away with that one mate this time, kind of motorcyclists way. Medellin sits in the belly of a vast valley. buildings crawl up the westside and east side of the valley. down the middle is the main centro sections. i have never seen a city like it. Its rush hour madness.the boys lead me to a bike shop they know. anothe rcolombian calle filled with just bike shops. colombia loves her motocecletas. Im given a free cap, its probably not worth more than 5 quid , but isnt the point !. its the correct kawasaki klr cap, what a relief. im gonna keep that piece of wood for ever though. the shop is named auteco. cra 50 no.37 -15,,,, email:dismedellin@une.net.co.... if you are in town and need bike help, go see these generous knowledgable people... we say goodbye. i will never forget these 2. jairo and yorsman. thank you so much !! I eventually found my medellin hostel, after one of the mechanics from auteco showed me through the rush hour darkness where it was, more unconditional kindness. the casa kiwi. owned by paul from the states. a rider who rode through colombia 6 years ago and decided to stay. the casa is perfect. full of great new friends. pauls gives a discount to motorcyclists. another gaff thats gonna be hard to leave.... im starting to understand why some people travel through this country and end up staying....... Medellin has an Aon office. A few months before i left the UK i had been put in contact with a chap named peter who is colombian but worked for Aon in London for 2 years. After one emial to him , peter was well up for helping me in anyway once i got here. I call pete, he wants to meet. we meet. he takes me in his car up the winding east side of the city valley to a beautiful spot overlooking the great city. a restuaurant.he orders some classic colombian grub and agua ardeiente, fire water.... a large plater comes out topped with chorizo, morsilla ( black pudding mixed with rice), chicharon ( large crispy pork), arepa ( soft tasty corn bread). empanadas. mincey stuff in crispy corn pastry ( pastyish). i am in love with empanadas. a salad, avacados , tomatos, coconut all chopped and sliced, topped in lime and salt, peter generously pays for all.... he tells me he has talked to the Aon medellin people and they are looking forward to meeting me. they are even trying to get contact with the cities medias. Wow , again all this genuine colombian unconditional help. peter is great company. hes a handglider. he jumps off mountains with only a small triangular frame, a canvas above and alot of skill and braveness. can handgliding be topped with any other activity ? he tells me of life in past colombia. it doesnt seem possible that people could have lived in that way. pablo escobar used to run the town with his narco tactics and fear mungering. pretending to be robin hood. You really couldnt walk around at night. bombs relentless, fathers desapearing in the night. guns everywhere. those days are gone. colombia is safe now. it will grow into a global treasure of a tourist spot. i only hope it doesnt spoil. peter has given the Aon people my hostel number. I get a call from Alvaro. he has great english and we meet . again i am treated generously to the meal. stake in a cherry type delicious sausce, chips, salad and pomegranate drinks. mmmmmmmm ! Alvaro is a very perceptive guy. he has lived in europe for a few years, but decided to settle in his home town. who can ever blame him ! after the meal he takes me to the office, a short stroll through a medellin park filled with unusual trees and plants. Alvaro tells me of medellin history and its people. Again stuff i wouldnt have known on my own. At the office i am greated with smiles and much interest .there are 50 employees here. Aon medellin deal with health and damages. personal and nusiness health which is law. damages in construction paublic liability and transport over land and seas. Alvaro has brilliantly sorted out a meeting with a medellin newspaper in the morning and he has kindly written an article about the Fragile X pedition, to all aon employees in colombia. they have offices is bogota, cali, cartagena and bucarramanga. fantastic ! .. i have to mention this fruitcake i met here in the casa kiwi. Tod from kentucky. he is driving a car from prudhoe bay down to ushuaia. A toyota 4 runner. right now he is in guayaquil, ecuador waiting for its release, after shipping the car from panama city, with more stress and worries than ever imagined i recon. todd is top man and has some great stories. to find him check out : http://www.thegetupproject.org/ Thanks also to gillian from ireland, she has been my PR person since we met, and she taught me how to dance like jim carrey. the casa kiwi another perfect place full of interesting fun people from all over. all with magic stories and adventurous addictions.

the wooden work of genius. an oil change later and a new cap. alls rosy.



jairo and yorsman. top colombian geezers !


the boys at Auteco bike shop medellin. a right laugh and they no what they are doing.






peter from medellin who worked at aon london in recent years. superb company and very generous in all ways. a fearless flyer of handgliders.


colombian tapas style lunch


Aon Medellin. Alvaro handing out Fragile x Syndrome info



Aon employees



Alvaro and mary the receptionist. aon medellin



the 1st floor gang. aon medellin





medellin


medellin

medellin


medellin won 2-0. my first latin america footy experience. a fiesta. a very passionate crowd



medellin fc



medellin residential


looking west medellin





looking east medellin